Dan's03HD

So thoughts on cooling the intake charge?
Cry02? Maybe a nice block of ice?
Rerouting some A/C would be nice too.....

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03 Black HD
Born: 01/17/03 Received: 02/12/03
#2586
Lots of billet, and bunches of mods!
401.9/527.8 on dyno!

ken800

mimicking the ford "intercooler cooler" would be awesome. A guy on Nloc has built his own, but doesn't have the time to do a bunch of back to back testing... I'll see if I can replicate his design and go from there. That will take me a while, of course.

I would think the JDM heat exchanger and/or an intercooler fan would help some...

Supposedly the 05 L cooler system is supposed to add 50HP for about 15 seconds until the charge heats up. I'm curious to see how the system works.

I would think the ultimate system would maintain a secondary tank of intercooler fluid that is supercooled using the a/c system. When you want it, flip a switch and an electronic valve changes the flow from the stock system to the cooled tank. 15 seconds later, the system automatically switches back to the main system and starts cooling the secondary system... or something like that...

I've thought about liquid chillers, but they draw way too many amps to work efficiently and would be way too big to become efficient.

Anyway, I'll keep you guys posted as my research carries me toward an intercooler cooler.

Ken

Dan_d_glassman

Thanks for the research Ken! I'm one of those po' boys that needs to make the money stretch. Bang for the buck is very important to me.

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NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG

FTVB & deep pan - awesome!
Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat

ken800

I feel I should add some data to this post. For you guys on a tight budget, the mod airbox is good enough unless you are making big HP. I am now on a KB with 18psi and the stock airbox simply would not be workable. I am still using a JLP ram air box and I'm still quite happy with it. There are a lot more big HP trucks out there now and they should all be running the JLP ram air or other manufacturer equivalent....

S/C-HD2002

So would a stock air box with a "ram air" hose running to outside air be considered sealed?

Instead of just cutting the bottom of the stock air box can you add a hose and scoop?

Wouldn't this be the best of both worlds? Stock air box to shield heat at low speed and fresh air tube to lower intake temps when moving??

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2002 DSG

ken800

s/c...

I wouldn't do it personally because it is a closed system. If you really want only outsider, I would look at a volant and replace the internal filter (it has a metal cap) with an S&B that has an open end to allow it to flow "thru" as well as "around". I would then open up the fender wall hole to just a tiny bit smaller than the volant rubber seal. The extra filter will end up making the volant about $350 total.

In my opinion, the stock airbox "rammed" would cause lean conditions but I don't know for sure. Maybe a rammed stock airbox with a few holes drilled in the top or sides to allow for some of the pressure to escape might help... I dunno.

I'm going to stick with my JLP ram air unless something better comes along...

Ayrton and I talked about having a custom unit made from plastic or carbon fiber that would flow huge numbers and only pull outside air, but neither of us has the time to see it to completion...

HarleyDammitt

At first thought, I figured that the STOCK opening in the STOCK box would make this NOT sealed, and this theory holds true.

I think if you use a tube similar to the JLP tube or some ducting to the lower valence you will be fine.

HOWEVER- I used a VERY short 3" PVC tube by cutting though the sheet metal beside the radiator, on the drivers side. I routed the tube through the hole, just under the headlight and trimmed the plastic trim below the headlight to let air in, from between the grill shroud and the top of the bumper.

I THOUGHT that this way I would be avoiding the hot air off the road surface, and my thoughts proved correct.

BUT- I actually get TOO MUCH of a RAM AIR effect. What I mean is that after doing this, and making a run in 40 degree weather, I got an error code. I went to AutoZone to get the code read... it showed that the A/F ratio was too RICH... That seemed weird to me... it seemed that it SHOULD be too LEAN... I cleared the code and tried again 5 or 6 times. Each time got a rich code.

Here's my theory... During the run I get a ram air effect, the computer compensates, and increases the fuel to match the increased air. When coming to a sudden stop, the computer does not have time to compensate for the reduced air. The air is reduced because the air is no longer being forced in. This creates the rich A/F ratio.... and results in the engine stalling.

This is all on a STOCK truck, only mods are a K&N panel filter, and the modded box.

If I stuff a towel in the tube, everything is normal.

My theory continues, where if the outside temp is higher, and/or the tube is longer, there is less air, and the computer can compensate for the sudden stop.

A few weeks ago, when the temps were higher, I didn't get any codes, and no stalling. One morning the temps dipped in the mid 40's,. and my stalling/code throwing problems returned...

S/C-HD2002

Could you cut the bottom of the box open (like N2TRUX did) on one side and have a fresh air tube running on the other. That way the air box is not under pressure?? Or is that still to much air running to the MAF??

I was thinking of running the duct work under the valence (in the middle).

Don't the true ram air hoods for our trucks and lightnings seal over a sealed lower air box??

Thanks to any input.

Speedin Bob

ken and all,

Been watching my 'Tap and taking notes on the intake temps lately since the truck is back to the stock (non modded) air box, rubber boot, etc. As engine mods go, it is basically bone stock at the moment (see below). Will provide the my findings along with driving conditions, ambient temps, etc. once the JLP box returns from powdercoat.

Will also monitor the temps and report findings when the C&L gets back from port and polish.

As a baseline:

No chip or pulley will be used
only other intake mod is a FRPP Oval TB and the actuator adjusted.

Bob

ken800

very nice... it will be good to see this thread have some more hard data added to it...