joedpl

So for the past four months I've been stumped as to why my a/c was blowing out the defrost vents when on max ac and why it wasn't blowing as cold as it used to (yes I've already replaced the vacuum lines by the battery, twice.) I finally stepped up and got a climate control unit off of ebay and plugged it into my truck (took all of 3 minutes to have the old unit out, and I was taking my time) and my a/c problem is fixed. It blows out the correct vents when you push max a/c and it's blowing colder than it has in quite a while, I thought to myself "that was easy, I don't know why I waited so long to do this." Then I tried to install the new unit........(insert favorite expletive here)....... To people that have replaced their unit you'll know what I'm talking about. The 2 plugs on the back are identical and so is the vacuum line junction. The problem is with the width of the unit and the alignment pegs. For some reason the 2001 climate control unit is thinner and has a different alignment peg orientation (don't worry, I've already tried drilling new holes for the different alignment peg pattern but the unit isn't wide enough and the mounting screws won't line up.) So I had to unwillingly install the defective unit again until I can find a unit out of a 2002+, and just my luck all the ones on ebay now are from 00-01 models.

Rant over.

If anyone has a 00-01 and you need a digital climate control unit I'd rather it go to someone on here before I list it on ebay.

02maddness

how much was the new climit control bro? mine is doin the same blowing through the defrost and its making me mad

joedpl

I got this one for $142. I am in talks with the seller right now since he said it would work on 00-04 F-150's. I found one locally for $100 that I'm going to go look at tomorrow, make sure it works and fits.

DATS TTRAH!

my a/c, when i tell it to go to the feet, it goes to the feet a little bit and the windshield. would this apply to me also?

tonysailor

sounds like one of the climate control hoses had dry rotted,
Best of luck,
T

joedpl

Check the vacuum lines behind the battery, if you replace those and it still does it then by my experience its the climate control unit. Do the hoses first as it is a much cheaper option to eliminate first. Mine were dry rotted as hell and I thought that it was going to be simple.........wrong.

HiHo

It may use the same EATC as the Marauder. This is a known problem over on MercuryMarauder.net. At least for that EATC. here is a link that discusses it and the repair.
A/C through the floor and defrost - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

cfradam

I have an 06 now that just started doing this this week.that makes three trucks in a row that have caused me problems.just cant catch a brake

joedpl

Ford has got to keep in business somehow.....

Check out your local salvage yards, I saved quite a bit going that route.

'02 H-D #677

So what was your solution?

joedpl

There was a salvage yard locally that had the climate control unit out of a 2002, I plugged it in and my problem has been solved for over 2,000 miles.

DSG1

I read this from the link listed above and decided to give it a shot. PROBLEM FIXED!!! Total cost $4.00

OK, it was finally my turn. I'd been noticing for awhile that air would no longer blow through the floor
vents like it used to. Then the A/C started blowing through the defrost when I would accelerate.
Then it got to where I'd have to kill the fan to coax the system into blowing through the A/C vents.

Enough.

I knew it was a vacuum leak, and after some further testing, I knew it was in the EATC module. The
system would hold vacuum as long as the EATC was off, or in the 'defrost' mode, but as soon as I
switched to any other mode, it would leak down. I tested each of the lines to the vacuum actuators,
and they did not leak.

I know others have revived their EATCs by swapping in the vacuum solenoid assembly from other Ford
products, but I decided to dig a bit deeper. The problem was an o-ring inside one of the EATC solenoids.
Total cost to fix the problem- 'Bout 25 cents, and a couple hours of my time.

Replacing the o-rings requires disassembly of the solenoids, but that's really not that hard to do, if one
has reasonably good mechanical aptitude. But first, make sure they hold vacuum when not energized.
Connect a hose to the center vacuum port (where the black tube was connected) and suck it.
It should hold vacuum. If it doesn't, the following fix probably isn't for you.

The solenoid assembly comes off the EATC module by unscrewing the two T-20 Torx screws on the
back side of the module. Pivot the rear of the assembly up, and disengage the tabs at the front of
the module. Disconnect the solenoid connector.

Lay the solenoid assembly on it's back, and remove the 10 screws holding the solenoids and plenum
strap to the plastic frame. At the wiring end of each solenoid, you'll see two metal tabs folded over,
that hold the solenoid coil and armature to the solenoid frame. Straighten these tabs and then carefully
pull out the armature, while watching you don't lose the spring or plunger that are inside. Note the
o-ring on the armature. That's what we're after.

Next, slide the coil off the end of the plenum tube, and then pinch the ends of the solenoid frame
together to release it from the plenum. Once the solenoid is all apart, fit the armature back into the
end of the plenum tube to check that the o-ring has a good snug fit. If it does, clean the inside of
the tube, and reassemble the solenoid. You can replace the o-ring if you like, but if it fits well, there's
no need.

Make sure you pay attention to the screw flanges on the solenoid frame. Pinch the end of the frame
together to fit it back onto the plenum. The spacer that goes at the plenum end of the solenoid
has the inside diameter undercut, and four grooves. The undercut end goes toward the plenum, and
you'll see four ribs at the base of the plenum tube that mate with the four grooves in the spacer.

The armature slides back on next, followed by the plunger, and then the spring. (The flat end of
the plunger goes into the hole first, if you missed how it came out.) Use a bit of dielectric grease on
the o-ring, (I used Nylog) but do not use any oil or anything on the plunger. Make sure the tip of the
armature where the plunger seals against it, is clean and shiny. Don't get any dielectric grease on the
tip of the armature. Clean and dry is what you want here. Slide the armature back into the end of the
solenoid, and while pressing everything back together, fold the metal tabs back over.

Repeat this for each of the four solenoids. On mine, the one that was leaking was for the floor vent
door (red hose). It was obvious when I got to that one. The armature came out much easier than the
others, and when I test-fitted the armature back into the plenum tube,
it was a much looser fit.

You might be tempted to only replace the O-ring on the leaking solenoid, and leave it at that. Don't.
(Guilty as charged, yer honor...) Do them all the first time, or you'll be back in there again.

Now, just gotta convince The Wife that the ~$700 I just saved her should go into the supercharger
fund...

harleydriven

Were are the vacuum line I'm having the same problem it only works god on the freeway an when I get on boost it goes to the window an when I let go of the gas it works fine

BLACK MAMBA

which parts place did you get the o-rings from? napa

Newman

There is a TSB to replace the blend door motor for the 04-up body style which is mounted on the top of the air box to solve inconsistant temps. They are a total PITA to change, radio out, package tray on top out, glovebox flipped down then you need a migets hand to get at it, all for .5 warranty time.