Brake replacement 101

BigBill · 12-05-2004, 12:18 AM

Ok guys I know this is a pretty simple task, but I did it 2x today (02 DSG and 03 BLK) and had a few tips, and if anyone is thinking about having someone else do it. It’s a pretty simple task

Tools required

Sockets
10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm
21mm
and 27mm

Impact or large handle
Large C clamp
High temp bearing grease
Flat Head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Brake Cleaner
WD40
Hammer

Optional
New Wheel bearings or the tool to pack the grease in the bearings, the twin plastic circles (or your hands smell like bearing grease, like mine)

And new pads and rotors (at least have the rotors turned)

I used slotted, dimpled, zinc washed rotors
And Hawk HPS pads

Ok here we go; back first it’s much easier...

Jack and support truck
Take off wheels (loosen on ground if you have no impact)
Remove the 2 10mm bolts that are holding the caliper on, they aren’t super tight
Remove the caliper by lifting up and it comes out of its slot.
Remove the outer pad first with a flat head screwdriver releasing the pins and lift up.
Remove the inner pad, just pulls out.
Now put WD 40 on the center of the rotor
Next remove the brake rotor, nothing accept the center likes to rust into the rotor, i used a little impact calibration (hammer) and pulling on it... Hit in the middle of the rotor around the rusty axle part, and it will break free and yank it off.
Now put the new rotor on make sure it’s all the way on
Take your old pad, put it on the caliper side and take your C clamp and bottom out the piston, also watch the level of your brake fluid, its easier to turn if you take the top off your master cylinder reservoir.
Load the new pads in
Put the caliper on the rotor
Line up the 2 10mm bolts and tighten down, not too tight, it wasn’t that hard to get off.

Now the front.
Jack up the front and take off the wheels
The fronts have 4 bolts on each caliper.
Take off the 2 13mm (im 99.99% sure might be 15) 1st that will get the caliper off and you can pull that and put it out of the way, I put it on an extra jack stand, its connected via brake like, DO NOT let it hang
Then take off the caliper mounting bracket, that’s 18mm, 2 bolts, caliper bracket will come off
Now remove the dust cover from the wheel bearing with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver, be careful no to hammer too hard, just get in-between the hub and the cover, and pry it off
Now bend the cotter pin with needle nose pliers and pull off.
Remove the cotter pin retaining cover off
Remove the 27mm nut from the middle.
Remove the front wheel bearing by just starting to remove the rotor, the bearing and the retaining plate.
Put the 27mm back on and pull the rotor down and out at the same time. the rear bearing should hang up on the nut and off the rotor.
Time to pack the bearings, I chose the backyard style install, take bearing grease in your hand, and work it into the bearing by little by little putting the sides into grease and hit it on your hand, forcing the grease up to the top, you should do this till you see new grease on both inner and outer. Its fun.
Now take the back bearing, put it in the back of the new rotor
followed by the back retaining plate, and give it a careful hammer into place, don’t bend the back backing plate, just get it into place
Put the rotor into place on the truck on the spindle.
Install front bearing followed by retaining plate
Then the 27mm Nut, hand tight. Put about 15ft-LBS of tq on that bolt, not a lot. Then spin the new rotor freely, it should spin nice
then the coder pin retainer followed by the coder pin, and bend it back W needle nose.
Install dust shield with a hammer again, make sure its centered
Put on caliper bracket 18mm bolts, TIGHT, if you have an impact use it, turn the wheel so you have room.
Next put the pads on the rotor in the caliper bracket. The rattler goes on the outside, other pad on the inside.
Now take the C clamp and press in the pistons with your old pad, till their all the way in.
The caliper should slide over the new pads and right into the caliper bracket.
Now take the 13mm and put those 2 bolts in pretty tight, its a little tricky lining up the bolts, just take your time.

And then get the cover back on the master cylinder reservoir if you took it off.

Reinstall wheels
Pump the brakes before driving to make sure you have pedal pressure.
And you should be good to go.

The combo of the pads and rotors I got.. SWEET, nice feel great stopping, just sweet.

Ill post pics of the final product, I just gotta paint my calipers they look like crap now. it looks sweet.

I think thats about it

onebadf150 · 12-05-2004, 02:24 AM

Sweet, thanks Bigbill for the brake info!!!

kromdom · 12-05-2004, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by onebadf150
Sweet, thanks Bigbill for the brake info!!!

DITTO.

Dbl G · 12-05-2004, 08:44 AM

It is here in several other threads, however nicely done.

Delmustator · 12-05-2004, 10:37 AM

Sounds like my "Brake Changin Kit"..

I've done it so many times, I just keep all the stuff together.

I even have Torqs heads for GM brakes.. LOL

-Good write up!

-Del

BigBill · 12-05-2004, 01:51 PM

Yea I figured I would post it up.

Did the GF's 03 and 1 friends DSG, and the other friend did it 1 day before.

My friend did it on his truck by him self in 3 hours.

We did my other friends 02 in about 2.5

And we did my GF's truck in about 1-1.5 hours.. and misc cleanup.

kromdom · 12-05-2004, 02:28 PM

For the MECHANICALLY-challenged like me...pictures added to the awesome HOW-TO above will be priceless.

Hi, I am KROMDOM and I am a PLASTIC mechanic!

BigBill · 12-05-2004, 03:39 PM

Well I gotta paint the calipers, so ill take pics of everything and that should help. gonna do that probably tonight or tuesday night.

kromdom · 12-05-2004, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BigBill
Well I gotta paint the calipers, so ill take pics of everything and that should help. gonna do that probably tonight or tuesday night.

TIA, man!

BigBill · 12-07-2004, 01:27 PM

Well no luck on caliper paint, i ordered it online yesterday it should arive on thursday and I will take some pics then...

I dident forget about it...

00harleytruck · 03-10-2005, 09:21 AM

Well i was one of the guys in on the rotorpros GB. And i love them exept for the fact that when i put them on front/rear yesterday it was fine until they got a lil hot. (about 5 min worth of fast driving and stoping) Then i lost pedal pressure and was barely able to get home. What could be my problem i really need help guys.

Will

Dbl G · 03-10-2005, 09:41 AM

They may sound dumb but did you get air in the lines.

00harleytruck · 03-10-2005, 06:29 PM

How would air have got in the lines unless i broke the line loose. I never broke the line or opened the fluid resevior. Could it just be the pads. I just bought direct replacement pads instead of upgrading. Do ya'll think i should upgrade, if so what brand and where can i get them. Im desperate this thing stoped alot better then this stock.

Dbl G · 03-10-2005, 07:49 PM

Some people crack open the bleeders when doing brakes. Pads ( new ) wont make your pedal go to the floor or cause you to lose pedal pressure,,,,,,

00harleytruck · 03-10-2005, 08:06 PM

So what can i do now to regain the pedal pressure. I have to push it halfway to even get anything from it and when i lock it up hardly anything happens. What could it be?

12-05-2004, 12:18 AM	#1 (permalink)
BigBill Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Miami FL Posts: 614 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Brake replacement 101 Ok guys I know this is a pretty simple task, but I did it 2x today (02 DSG and 03 BLK) and had a few tips, and if anyone is thinking about having someone else do it. It’s a pretty simple task Tools required Sockets 10mm 13mm 15mm 18mm 21mm and 27mm Impact or large handle Large C clamp High temp bearing grease Flat Head screwdriver Needle nose pliers Brake Cleaner WD40 Hammer Optional New Wheel bearings or the tool to pack the grease in the bearings, the twin plastic circles (or your hands smell like bearing grease, like mine) And new pads and rotors (at least have the rotors turned) I used slotted, dimpled, zinc washed rotors And Hawk HPS pads Ok here we go; back first it’s much easier... Jack and support truck Take off wheels (loosen on ground if you have no impact) Remove the 2 10mm bolts that are holding the caliper on, they aren’t super tight Remove the caliper by lifting up and it comes out of its slot. Remove the outer pad first with a flat head screwdriver releasing the pins and lift up. Remove the inner pad, just pulls out. Now put WD 40 on the center of the rotor Next remove the brake rotor, nothing accept the center likes to rust into the rotor, i used a little impact calibration (hammer) and pulling on it... Hit in the middle of the rotor around the rusty axle part, and it will break free and yank it off. Now put the new rotor on make sure it’s all the way on Take your old pad, put it on the caliper side and take your C clamp and bottom out the piston, also watch the level of your brake fluid, its easier to turn if you take the top off your master cylinder reservoir. Load the new pads in Put the caliper on the rotor Line up the 2 10mm bolts and tighten down, not too tight, it wasn’t that hard to get off. Now the front. Jack up the front and take off the wheels The fronts have 4 bolts on each caliper. Take off the 2 13mm (im 99.99% sure might be 15) 1st that will get the caliper off and you can pull that and put it out of the way, I put it on an extra jack stand, its connected via brake like, DO NOT let it hang Then take off the caliper mounting bracket, that’s 18mm, 2 bolts, caliper bracket will come off Now remove the dust cover from the wheel bearing with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver, be careful no to hammer too hard, just get in-between the hub and the cover, and pry it off Now bend the cotter pin with needle nose pliers and pull off. Remove the cotter pin retaining cover off Remove the 27mm nut from the middle. Remove the front wheel bearing by just starting to remove the rotor, the bearing and the retaining plate. Put the 27mm back on and pull the rotor down and out at the same time. the rear bearing should hang up on the nut and off the rotor. Time to pack the bearings, I chose the backyard style install, take bearing grease in your hand, and work it into the bearing by little by little putting the sides into grease and hit it on your hand, forcing the grease up to the top, you should do this till you see new grease on both inner and outer. Its fun. Now take the back bearing, put it in the back of the new rotor followed by the back retaining plate, and give it a careful hammer into place, don’t bend the back backing plate, just get it into place Put the rotor into place on the truck on the spindle. Install front bearing followed by retaining plate Then the 27mm Nut, hand tight. Put about 15ft-LBS of tq on that bolt, not a lot. Then spin the new rotor freely, it should spin nice then the coder pin retainer followed by the coder pin, and bend it back W needle nose. Install dust shield with a hammer again, make sure its centered Put on caliper bracket 18mm bolts, TIGHT, if you have an impact use it, turn the wheel so you have room. Next put the pads on the rotor in the caliper bracket. The rattler goes on the outside, other pad on the inside. Now take the C clamp and press in the pistons with your old pad, till their all the way in. The caliper should slide over the new pads and right into the caliper bracket. Now take the 13mm and put those 2 bolts in pretty tight, its a little tricky lining up the bolts, just take your time. And then get the cover back on the master cylinder reservoir if you took it off. Reinstall wheels Pump the brakes before driving to make sure you have pedal pressure. And you should be good to go. The combo of the pads and rotors I got.. SWEET, nice feel great stopping, just sweet. Ill post pics of the final product, I just gotta paint my calipers they look like crap now. it looks sweet. I think thats about it

03-10-2005, 09:21 AM	#11 (permalink)
00harleytruck Procharged Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Aubrey Tx Posts: 409 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Well i was one of the guys in on the rotorpros GB. And i love them exept for the fact that when i put them on front/rear yesterday it was fine until they got a lil hot. (about 5 min worth of fast driving and stoping) Then i lost pedal pressure and was barely able to get home. What could be my problem i really need help guys. Will __________________ Daily driver: 2001 Mustang Cobra- Eibach suspension, Tokico struts, Maximum motorsports full length subframes, 4.10 gears, MGW short throw shifter, JLT cold air intake, Bassani X-pipe, Bassani Catbak, full sound system Project ride: 2000 Harley truck- Belltech 4/6 drop, custom 5 point rollcage, ATI procharged, custom built (billet) blower bracket, polished P1SC, custom built kooks longtubes, custom built 3in Xpipe, black MB motoring 22's, 42# fuel injectors, 90mm MAF, 255lph intank pump, 3.73 gears, built tranny w/ PI stall, full show sound system

03-10-2005, 06:29 PM	#13 (permalink)
00harleytruck Procharged Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Aubrey Tx Posts: 409 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	How would air have got in the lines unless i broke the line loose. I never broke the line or opened the fluid resevior. Could it just be the pads. I just bought direct replacement pads instead of upgrading. Do ya'll think i should upgrade, if so what brand and where can i get them. Im desperate this thing stoped alot better then this stock. __________________ Daily driver: 2001 Mustang Cobra- Eibach suspension, Tokico struts, Maximum motorsports full length subframes, 4.10 gears, MGW short throw shifter, JLT cold air intake, Bassani X-pipe, Bassani Catbak, full sound system Project ride: 2000 Harley truck- Belltech 4/6 drop, custom 5 point rollcage, ATI procharged, custom built (billet) blower bracket, polished P1SC, custom built kooks longtubes, custom built 3in Xpipe, black MB motoring 22's, 42# fuel injectors, 90mm MAF, 255lph intank pump, 3.73 gears, built tranny w/ PI stall, full show sound system

03-10-2005, 08:06 PM	#15 (permalink)
00harleytruck Procharged Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Aubrey Tx Posts: 409 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	So what can i do now to regain the pedal pressure. I have to push it halfway to even get anything from it and when i lock it up hardly anything happens. What could it be? __________________ Daily driver: 2001 Mustang Cobra- Eibach suspension, Tokico struts, Maximum motorsports full length subframes, 4.10 gears, MGW short throw shifter, JLT cold air intake, Bassani X-pipe, Bassani Catbak, full sound system Project ride: 2000 Harley truck- Belltech 4/6 drop, custom 5 point rollcage, ATI procharged, custom built (billet) blower bracket, polished P1SC, custom built kooks longtubes, custom built 3in Xpipe, black MB motoring 22's, 42# fuel injectors, 90mm MAF, 255lph intank pump, 3.73 gears, built tranny w/ PI stall, full show sound system

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12-05-2004, 02:24 AM	#2 (permalink)
onebadf150 Cam Slammin Join Date: May 2003 Location: N.O. & BR Posts: 1,480 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Sweet, thanks Bigbill for the brake info!!!

12-05-2004, 08:44 AM	#4 (permalink)
Dbl G Guest Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 0 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	It is here in several other threads, however nicely done.

12-05-2004, 10:37 AM	#5 (permalink)
Delmustator BLADE RUNNER Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Raleigh, NC Area Posts: 2,991 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Sounds like my "Brake Changin Kit".. I've done it so many times, I just keep all the stuff together. I even have Torqs heads for GM brakes.. LOL -Good write up! -Del

12-05-2004, 01:51 PM	#6 (permalink)
BigBill Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Miami FL Posts: 614 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Yea I figured I would post it up. Did the GF's 03 and 1 friends DSG, and the other friend did it 1 day before. My friend did it on his truck by him self in 3 hours. We did my other friends 02 in about 2.5 And we did my GF's truck in about 1-1.5 hours.. and misc cleanup.

12-05-2004, 02:28 PM	#7 (permalink)
kromdom #4954, 12APR01 Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,343 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	For the MECHANICALLY-challenged like me...pictures added to the awesome HOW-TO above will be priceless. Hi, I am KROMDOM and I am a PLASTIC mechanic!

12-05-2004, 03:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
BigBill Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Miami FL Posts: 614 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Well I gotta paint the calipers, so ill take pics of everything and that should help. gonna do that probably tonight or tuesday night.

12-07-2004, 01:27 PM	#10 (permalink)
BigBill Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Miami FL Posts: 614 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Well no luck on caliper paint, i ordered it online yesterday it should arive on thursday and I will take some pics then... I dident forget about it...

03-10-2005, 09:41 AM	#12 (permalink)
Dbl G Guest Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 0 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	They may sound dumb but did you get air in the lines.

03-10-2005, 07:49 PM	#14 (permalink)
Dbl G Guest Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 0 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Some people crack open the bleeders when doing brakes. Pads ( new ) wont make your pedal go to the floor or cause you to lose pedal pressure,,,,,,