Installation notes on rear Hellwig swaybar

Dan_d_glassman · 03-16-2003, 08:37 PM

Wanted to share a couple of notes with those that purchased the rear Hellwig swaybar from the GP. Installed mine today, but have other work to do on truck so I left it on the stands in the garage. Here's a couple of things that helped me:

1. Remove both back tires - it's easier to see.

2. Stock height trucks will use the shorter end link bolts and spacers. I also used the shorter U-bolts.

3. Assemble the endlink to the frame bracket before mounting the bracket to the truck and have the endlink bolt's head at the top. If you don't it will be harder to assemble.

4. Separate your hardware before starting. There are a few nuts that are stamped with a square on one face. These are "locking" nuts which are different from the regular nuts and nylon lock nuts. The regular nuts are used for the U-bolts and saddles and will end up being double nutted.

5. Pick up a few more 1/2" flat washers. My kit only came with six. You need eight. They protect the poly bushings when you tighten the endlinks. This is detailed in the instructions.

6. The drivers side bracket for the endlink has a bolting plate whos shaft must pass through the frame. Hoses are routed in this area so you must remove one 8mm nut from the frame just in front of this hole. This releases the hold down for the obstructing hoses and tubing. Now you can push it out of the way to insert the plate.

7. Put a little lubricating grease on the poly bushings to help them onto the endlink bolts. You'll still have to twist them on.

8. In order to clear the passenger shock, the saddles and U-bolts will be angled somewhat toward the bed of the truck. This raises the swaybar off of the differential and off of the passenger shock. I used the handle of my ratchet to space the bar away from the shock while I was tightening the nuts on the U-bolts.

Hope some of this helps and keeps you from

Dan

HDsUpErCreWf150 · 03-16-2003, 09:11 PM

Thanks for the tips. It should help all of us that are do it youselfers. I plan on doing it myself when mine arrives. How long did it take you?

N2TRUX · 03-16-2003, 11:34 PM

Can we get some pics to go with these tips? This would make a nice addition to the "How To" forum...

Dan_d_glassman · 03-17-2003, 05:40 AM

It probably takes about 3 hrs for most, 2 or less for the "mod monsters." For me it took longer, but I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has) and I had to learn the valuable lesson of assembling the end-links on the frame bracket. Also, had one trip to Lowe's in there for the two 1/2" flat washers.

I'll take some pics soon since still have the rear wheels off to paint the calipers.

Happy modding - Dan :bo:

Ayrton · 03-17-2003, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan_d_glassman
I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has)

LOL I understand completely, see my post about removing my valence.

HDsUpErCreWf150 · 03-17-2003, 08:15 AM

I think there already is a how to for the helwig in the how to forum.

chesterc · 03-17-2003, 01:26 PM

Good tips Dan!

Quote:

It probably takes about 3 hrs for most, 2 or less for the "mod monsters." For me it took longer, but I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has) and I had to learn the valuable lesson of assembling the end-links on the frame bracket. Also, had one trip to Lowe's in there for the two 1/2" flat washers.

Mod monsters... hahaha that's a good one.

Taking off the wheels will make the area more accessible.

Quote:

8. In order to clear the passenger shock, the saddles and U-bolts will be angled somewhat toward the bed of the truck. This raises the swaybar off of the differential and off of the passenger shock. I used the handle of my ratchet to space the bar away from the shock while I was tightening the nuts on the U-bolts.

Here's another tip:
When you are ready to tighten the nuts on the U-bolts. Place a screwdriver "rubber/plastic handle", about 1" thick between the differential housing and the bar. That way you don't have to hold the bar while tightehing the bolts.

Harley#356 · 03-17-2003, 05:05 PM

Great tips! i'll have to look this up again when my sway bar gets here. hope ya don't mind if i move this over to the "How-To" section

Dan_d_glassman · 03-22-2003, 01:25 PM

Got pics today... I'll work on getting them resized and posted tonight. Those of you that bought the front sway bar also are in for a little "trim to fit" work also - see my other post on the front sway bar.

Richo · 03-27-2003, 11:36 PM

To hell with the install, how do you like the handling???

Dan_d_glassman · 03-30-2003, 08:52 AM

Truck definately corners better. The back end doesn't 'side-step' when hitting bumps on the corners anymore. All-in-all some minor installation aggravations, but good bang-for-the-buck. This mod gets a

Dan_d_glassman · 03-30-2003, 09:19 AM

Here's some pics of the install...

Dan_d_glassman · 03-30-2003, 09:20 AM

Dan_d_glassman · 03-30-2003, 09:22 AM

Dan_d_glassman · 03-30-2003, 09:24 AM

finally...

03-16-2003, 08:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dan_d_glassman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NC Posts: 465 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Installation notes on rear Hellwig swaybar Wanted to share a couple of notes with those that purchased the rear Hellwig swaybar from the GP. Installed mine today, but have other work to do on truck so I left it on the stands in the garage. Here's a couple of things that helped me: 1. Remove both back tires - it's easier to see. 2. Stock height trucks will use the shorter end link bolts and spacers. I also used the shorter U-bolts. 3. Assemble the endlink to the frame bracket before mounting the bracket to the truck and have the endlink bolt's head at the top. If you don't it will be harder to assemble. 4. Separate your hardware before starting. There are a few nuts that are stamped with a square on one face. These are "locking" nuts which are different from the regular nuts and nylon lock nuts. The regular nuts are used for the U-bolts and saddles and will end up being double nutted. 5. Pick up a few more 1/2" flat washers. My kit only came with six. You need eight. They protect the poly bushings when you tighten the endlinks. This is detailed in the instructions. 6. The drivers side bracket for the endlink has a bolting plate whos shaft must pass through the frame. Hoses are routed in this area so you must remove one 8mm nut from the frame just in front of this hole. This releases the hold down for the obstructing hoses and tubing. Now you can push it out of the way to insert the plate. 7. Put a little lubricating grease on the poly bushings to help them onto the endlink bolts. You'll still have to twist them on. 8. In order to clear the passenger shock, the saddles and U-bolts will be angled somewhat toward the bed of the truck. This raises the swaybar off of the differential and off of the passenger shock. I used the handle of my ratchet to space the bar away from the shock while I was tightening the nuts on the U-bolts. Hope some of this helps and keeps you from Dan __________________ NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG FTVB & deep pan - awesome! Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat Last edited by Dan_d_glassman; 03-16-2003 at 08:39 PM..

03-16-2003, 11:34 PM	#3 (permalink)
N2TRUX Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 1,865 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Can we get some pics to go with these tips? This would make a nice addition to the "How To" forum... __________________ Click it ^

03-17-2003, 05:40 AM	#4 (permalink)
Dan_d_glassman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NC Posts: 465 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	It probably takes about 3 hrs for most, 2 or less for the "mod monsters." For me it took longer, but I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has) and I had to learn the valuable lesson of assembling the end-links on the frame bracket. Also, had one trip to Lowe's in there for the two 1/2" flat washers. I'll take some pics soon since still have the rear wheels off to paint the calipers. Happy modding - Dan :bo: __________________ NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG FTVB & deep pan - awesome! Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat

03-17-2003, 05:05 PM	#8 (permalink)
Harley#356 Worlds Fastest HD F150!!! Paid Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Week-Philly; Weekend-Souf Jerz Posts: 29,616 NHTOC member #: 3 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Great tips! i'll have to look this up again when my sway bar gets here. hope ya don't mind if i move this over to the "How-To" section __________________ ~HYDE 2000 Harley Truck # 0356 of 8197~------Built: May 18th, 2000------Bought: July 3rd, 2000------ *Worlds Fastest Harley Truck PERIOD - 10.48 @ 131.68 - 10/30/09**Worlds Fastest Eaton Powered HD Truck - 12.19 @ 112.48 - 11/17/07* ~JEKYLL 2000 Harley Truck # ???? of 8197~------Built: June 20th, 2000------Bought: June 25th, 2009------ NHTOC# 3

03-22-2003, 01:25 PM	#9 (permalink)
Dan_d_glassman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NC Posts: 465 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Got pics today... I'll work on getting them resized and posted tonight. Those of you that bought the front sway bar also are in for a little "trim to fit" work also - see my other post on the front sway bar. __________________ NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG FTVB & deep pan - awesome! Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat



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03-16-2003, 09:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
HDsUpErCreWf150 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 2,269 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Thanks for the tips. It should help all of us that are do it youselfers. I plan on doing it myself when mine arrives. How long did it take you?

03-17-2003, 08:15 AM	#6 (permalink)
HDsUpErCreWf150 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 2,269 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	I think there already is a how to for the helwig in the how to forum.

03-27-2003, 11:36 PM	#10 (permalink)
Richo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 683 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	To hell with the install, how do you like the handling??? __________________ NHTOC # 21 2003 10th Annv Torch Red Convertible Cobra Predator/Runnin With The Devil Billetflow 2.76, idler and 4 Pulley Kit LFP Ported Blower LFP Heat Exchanger K&N FIPK LFP Brisk Plugs Bassani Catback/Catted X-Pipe LFP/Kirban Shifter MGW Shifter Handle 470HP 481.5tq new KB numbers soon

03-30-2003, 08:52 AM	#11 (permalink)
Dan_d_glassman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NC Posts: 465 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Truck definately corners better. The back end doesn't 'side-step' when hitting bumps on the corners anymore. All-in-all some minor installation aggravations, but good bang-for-the-buck. This mod gets a __________________ NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG FTVB & deep pan - awesome! Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat

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