pLEASE read & use the information to help your alarm/security purchase or concern. Do not post replies here. start a fresh thread to keep this post clean & simple.


Abbreviations & Terms:

OEM: Original Equipment manufacturer or stock stuff.

Remote: short for remote control or the key chain transmitter used to activate functions remotely.

Keyless: Short for Keyless entry or remote door locks.

PPL: Progressive power Locks. This is a description of the stock keyless function. Pressing the unlock button once unlocks only the driver’s side door. A second press of the unlock button unlocks all the other doors.

Proximity Sensor: this is a single or dual stage microwave type sensor that detects changes in the microwave’s wave pattern around the vehicle. When a disruption is detected, a -12v signal is created to sound the alarm or a beep-tone generator (see warn away) this is sometimes called a Perimeter Sensor, Field Disturbance Sensor, Microwave Sensor, or Convertible Top Sensor.

Warn Away: this is a beep or chime device that is connected to either the impact sensor or a perimeter sensor letting intruders or people lingering to close to the vehicle for too long there is an active alarm present. Note talking alarms or sensors are part of the category.

Single Stage: protects the outer perimeter of the vehicle only. Usually sounds a beep or chime tone (see Warn Away)

Dual Stage: Protects the outer perimeter with a beep/chime tone (see warn away) & then has a full alarm section if a hand, body part or tool passes through the window, sunroof or other original or man made opening.

Impact Sensor: a special type of sensor that detects blows to the body. This is accomplished by measuring vibrations in the body. Also called a Magnetic Resonance sensor, it is superior to any other type of sensor for measuring attacks to door locks, handles, windows, or other bashed items to gain entry.
Shock Sensor: A very simple type of sensor that typically measures movement in the body by using wither a bulb of magnetic or mercury fluid. That literally works like the old thermostat in your home. Some times used as a jacking sensor too

Reed Switch: this is that little sensor you see on doors are retail stores for their alarms & door chimes. It detects the breaking of a magnetic field between the 2 parts of the sensor. Used for doors where a pin-switch might get broken or be in the way; can be used on sliding rear windows, camper shell doors, & also to detect the removal of a part.

Pin Switch: a simple plunger type device that can either detect something has been opened or closed. The OEM door pins are “normally open” meaning that the switch naturally wants to be extended by the spring in the switch.
Also used on hoods & trunk lids.

Starter Interlock: an OEM security device that reads the resistance in the key to prevent a dummy key from starting the vehicle. Versions are called PATS (Passive Auto Theft System) Newer OEM keys have a computer chip for higher code combinations. For Remote starts in our trucks, the PATS only requires both key's for programming, you do not loose or have to pay for another key to be left inside the truck.

Starter Interrupt: A system that allows the alarm to intercept the key’s signal & not allow the vehicle to start. There are 2 types, see Fail Safe & Fail Secure

Fail Safe: If there were a complete failure of the alarm brain, the vehicle will start without any action on the driver’s part. More convenient but less secure.

Fail Secure: this means if a thief could find the alarm brain & rip it out, the vehicle will not start. Most secure method of starter interrupt, but if the alarm brain fails, you’re towing the vehicle to the alarm dealer.

Valet/Override/Program Switch: A switch usually hidden that allows both override of the alarm in the event a remote is lost or damaged, also it acts as the programming control for the alarm.


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