Budget conscious recommendations:
I'm not sure if you have an in-dash 6-disc changer or a "remote" factory 6-disc changer. Be VERY aware that changing to an aftermarket unit will render your "remote" factory changer useless.
To avoid buying unnecessary parts later because you decided to leave it in a certain way "for now", lay-out your entire plan. For example, buying parts needed because you are keeping your factory unit, but will NO LONGER be needed when you get an aftermaket unit, like RCA converters.
I suggest you follow this sequence as budget allows:
Get your door speakers in. You can find quality 5x7 oval, 2-ways, coaxials for your main doors. I believe your rear doors need 6x8 ovals. Power handling from atleast 35 watts RMS or better. You can amplify them later when the budget allows.
Get your head unit, with MP3 or XM capabilities. A higher RMS output for all four channels would be ideal.
- It needs to have 'pre-outs' for front, rear and one subwoofer pre-out. These are where your amps will get signal from.
- You will need a harness that plugs into your OEM connector. The wires from this harness will be "mated" to the other wires for the head-unit harness.
- You will need an install kit. One DIN size, but it will have a cubby hole either on the top or bottom. Our OEM radios are called double-DIN. When you get flip-out LCD later on, you will need to change to this kit.
At this point if you do your own installation, this should cost you no more than $450.
Let's say you get the dual 10" down fire box.
You need to consider the "basket" or mounting depth of the sub. This is the flange of the sub all the way to the back of the magnet. Your box will tell you how much depth it can take without any tweaking.
Airspace requirement of the subwoofer. This is the amount of free air that the sub needs to give you its's optimal sound. Power hungry woofers generally need more.
Depending on how much you want to spend, go for at least 200 watt RMS subs, you can go higher. Get yourself familiar with single voice coil and dual voice coil terminoligies. Find the OHM ratings on the voice coils of the subs, are they 2, 4, 6 or 8? Familiarize yourself with what series wiring and parallel wiring is on dual voice coil subs.
A two channel amp will be ideal. 200 watts RMS per channel atleast. Now, take note of the amplifiers power ratings. It gives "X" RMS watts at "Y" Ohm load. Make sure your subs are capable of being wired to get FULL output from the amp.
You will need an "amp" install kit. Comes with main power wire, fuse, ground wire, remote turn-on wire, connectors and splices, sometimes with RCA cables and speaker wire.
Get power directly from the battery. Since you already have your head-unit in place just hook up the remote turn-on wire, the RCAs and fire it up.
2003 FFW-Palmdale, CA - Tough Truck Winner
2002 HD Black
1996 Probe GT