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Thread: 10's or 12's?

  1. #1
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    10's or 12's?

    Well, after the Cecil meet yesterday, and hearing Crockett's truck rattling insanely huge subbox and seeing MHTYFman's subbox in his 00 HD, i've officially got the audio bug.

    Now let me just start by saying i know ZERO about audio. LoL! I don't know what amps are, or ohms, or what amps are good/bad, or speakers, or tweeters, or anything like that. ABSOLUTLY NOTHING! ;t

    I do know i want to upgrade all the speakers in the truck, put a few subs in, and eventually an indash flip out TV.
    And i don't want to have to cut and drill panels and all that stuff.

    Anyway, MHTYFman (keith) has this subbox in his 00HD

    http://www.subbox.net/store/product3.html

    that holds two 10's, and it comes built and carpeted to match the truck. After seeing his, this is what i'll probably go with.

    But what should i go for? two 10's, or two 12's?
    here's the box for 12's

    http://www.subbox.net/store/product2.html


    And can i do my audio system in steps? I can't afford everything at once, but i can do like monthy audio purchases for stuff. 1st do the subs and box....then the door speakers.....then the headunit....etc?

    I know you can help me out Crockett.

    Basically i just want to know if i have to install everything at once? or can i do it in steps?

    Thanks for any info....and remember, i don't know anything so don't start whipping out those fancy big words

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    I am in the process off upgrading the audio in my Truck. A few weeks ago I installed a new deck (Kenwood KDC-MP822) and then had Rockford Fosgate 6x8 speakers installed in all four doors. I had Rockford Fosgate’s in my 2000 HD and really liked them. The system sounds great as is but as most off us I want a little more. Today I purchased a Kenwood 2 channel Amplifier (KAC-7200) and a Rockford Fosgate 10” Subwoofer. I have never installed an amp before so I will be doing my homework before I put it in. A buddy off mine can give me advice over the phone so that will help. I don’t believe it will be too hard but I want to do a clean install. Not sure jet where I will be mounting everything. The 2000’s have a lot more room under the back seat so installing subs is a lot easier.
    2006 Lincoln Mark LT 4X4
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    Go with 10s Josh. The twelves will go a little deeper, but I have always felt that 10s always hit harder and faster. The sound quality will be much better with 10s. You will be pleased.

    David

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    Two 10s will be more than enough unless you are the type that like to anounce yourselve with low notes ;)

  5. #5
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    I guess 10's it is then. I'm not that big into audio where i gotta have it where you can hear it a mile away, so i wasn't sure if 10's would be good and 12's overkill or what. Anythings better than stock

    Any recomendations on which subs to use? or amps? and remember....i don't know anything about audio, so don't start throwing that watts, ohms, channels, etc. in there unless ya can explain what the word means to me 1st LoL

    Thanks!

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    Budget conscious recommendations:

    I'm not sure if you have an in-dash 6-disc changer or a "remote" factory 6-disc changer. Be VERY aware that changing to an aftermarket unit will render your "remote" factory changer useless.

    To avoid buying unnecessary parts later because you decided to leave it in a certain way "for now", lay-out your entire plan. For example, buying parts needed because you are keeping your factory unit, but will NO LONGER be needed when you get an aftermaket unit, like RCA converters.

    I suggest you follow this sequence as budget allows:

    Get your door speakers in. You can find quality 5x7 oval, 2-ways, coaxials for your main doors. I believe your rear doors need 6x8 ovals. Power handling from atleast 35 watts RMS or better. You can amplify them later when the budget allows.

    Get your head unit, with MP3 or XM capabilities. A higher RMS output for all four channels would be ideal.
    - It needs to have 'pre-outs' for front, rear and one subwoofer pre-out. These are where your amps will get signal from.
    - You will need a harness that plugs into your OEM connector. The wires from this harness will be "mated" to the other wires for the head-unit harness.
    - You will need an install kit. One DIN size, but it will have a cubby hole either on the top or bottom. Our OEM radios are called double-DIN. When you get flip-out LCD later on, you will need to change to this kit.

    At this point if you do your own installation, this should cost you no more than $450.

    Let's say you get the dual 10" down fire box.

    You need to consider the "basket" or mounting depth of the sub. This is the flange of the sub all the way to the back of the magnet. Your box will tell you how much depth it can take without any tweaking.

    Airspace requirement of the subwoofer. This is the amount of free air that the sub needs to give you its's optimal sound. Power hungry woofers generally need more.

    Depending on how much you want to spend, go for at least 200 watt RMS subs, you can go higher. Get yourself familiar with single voice coil and dual voice coil terminoligies. Find the OHM ratings on the voice coils of the subs, are they 2, 4, 6 or 8? Familiarize yourself with what series wiring and parallel wiring is on dual voice coil subs.

    A two channel amp will be ideal. 200 watts RMS per channel atleast. Now, take note of the amplifiers power ratings. It gives "X" RMS watts at "Y" Ohm load. Make sure your subs are capable of being wired to get FULL output from the amp.

    You will need an "amp" install kit. Comes with main power wire, fuse, ground wire, remote turn-on wire, connectors and splices, sometimes with RCA cables and speaker wire.

    Get power directly from the battery. Since you already have your head-unit in place just hook up the remote turn-on wire, the RCAs and fire it up.
    2003 FFW-Palmdale, CA - Tough Truck Winner

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    JL Audio is the only subs I use. There comparable and better subs out there, but its hard to go wrong with JLs. Which particular subs to use will depend on your sub amp.

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    Re: 10's or 12's?

    Well everyone has an opinion, and I'll limit mine here. But here is the best thing you can do four yourself: find a good store that has been around a long time that will allow you to return your speakers within a year and put 100% of your money to an upgrade.

    For instance, I have Boston Acoustic Pro separates. These are (or were) like $550.00 a SET. I didn't start out that way. I bought some really nice $200 set, upgraded to $350 set, then made the jump to the $550 B.A.Pros. BTW, the TBird took the funky 5x7's in front, I simply had them mount the 6.5" speakers in the same location-- no problem. Read: you don't have to go with ovals and is widely believed that ovals do not repreduce as true as sound as round speakers.

    The best speakers in the world will sound like crap if attached to a bad amp. I like PPI and Xtant personally.

    As for the sub box you posted, it looks like the same box, simply one to mount 10's and the other 12's. You can always start with the box for 10's and later if needed move up to the 12's and just cut the box holes a bit bigger-- I think you are pretty handy that way

    I much prefer the sound of 12's an larger. Don't go by the misconception that the bigger you go causes "ghetto thump". It's all in the tune. At full volume in my TBird would hurt the crap out of your ears and make you feel you were getting a full body massage, but at twelve feet outside the car you could barely here it.

    The biggest limiting factor with those boxes, and your sub purchases, will make sure that the subs you purchase will work in a box of .7 Cubic Feet and a mounting depth: 5.75. Also, this is a sealed box.

    Lastly, that box carpeted cost an additional 30 bucks. So you are talking 200 bucks plus shipping. I had a custom box (band pass with two 12"s) 100% custom box to fill the front 2/3s of my TBird trunk and built, carpeted and fully installed ran me $250.00 from a large dealer (not know for low prices) at a chain called Sound Advice in FL. So while you are doing the tour of the electronic stores-- you may with to enquire about this as a possibility.

    Hope this helps.

    As for my system; I ran 400 watts to the front B.A. Pro seperates (200 a side), in the rear I had two 12" Kicker Pro's subs that had 600 watts @ 2 omhs "effectivly" making it 1200 watts, and and for rear fill I kept the stock speakers and powered them from the Alpine head unit at 70 each. Which reminds me-- I don't think putting much money into the rear is useful-- and if you do, do it last. Also, I was shocked that the rear factory speakers worked so well, as so long, being over-driven as they were. I think by far the weakest link in Ford's systems is their amps.

    /tg
    Last edited by TimG; 03-24-2003 at 11:09 AM.

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  9. #9
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    my head hurts

    thanks for all the info though! Still not sure what i'll be going with and all that yet, but i'm not looking to blow the doors off my truck, and don't want to spend like 10 grand on a system

    Right now though, plans have changed...selling my cervini's and getting a different hood, then after that i'll hit the audio stuff up

    i'll save this thread though for when i go for it

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    Josh all I can add is that we ahve some great & knowledgeable guys on here.

    I would add the following ideas: TRUST YOUR EARS. Take music with you to the stereo shops Take the music you will be listening too. Don't listen yo their discs... their speakers SHOULD sound good with their disc. Duh. Ask to hear the speakers on the stages you plan. Example: Listen to a comparable deck/HU without an amp first. then have them turn on a 50-75watt amp. Then add the rear speakers off the HU/Deck. Lastly add the 2-10's (My preference) on a good amp. step by step see how it all comes together.

    In my most humble opinion, Front Speakers & amplifier power are the keys to great sound quality. Subs, any good installer can take an average to usub-standard sub, put it in the right box & make it pound. I am not a fan of prefab boxes. I vote for the custom box everytime. Unless a Stealth fits your musical taste. The front console & under rear seat JL Stealths sound pretty amazing.

    JL or Xtant are my personal amp choices with a factory HU. From there... there are lots of great amps out there. Alpine, rockford, PPI, & the list goes on.

    I echo the idea of make a plan on paper. Staple it to your forehead when its time to get the audio $$ rolling... stay focused on your plans & your budget. Plan on exceeding your budget by about 10-15% minimum... right St. Louis Harley?? (big grin)

    Be sure to look into the upgrade idea one of the other posts said. This is a sign of a more high-end shop. They understand your tastes will change & get better/more expensive. Often times they will have trade in product for a great price, full in store warranty to get YOU started. Then upgrade to the good stuff as you can aford & grow. Very important. Smae goes for install quality. Often they will give you install "points" when you upgrade... meaning if you paid $50 to have your door speakers instaled first round, they will give you 15 or 20 points toward the upgrade install. Usually a point = an install dollar So you install the u[grade for $35 or $30. Also the head unit install should include reinstallation of your OEM radio for free, if you trade in your truck. Ths only applies if you use a wiring plug kit & no wires are cut.

    Good luck..

    Rob, St. Louis MO

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    Well i wont put my 2 cents in till Josh is ready because like everyone else I have a little something to write also.

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    oh c'mon mark... you know micheLe would cut you some slack....10% in your budget isn't that horrific is it?? :-)

    Rob,St. louis

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    Lurk Lurk Lurk.

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    Originally posted by St Louis Harley
    Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight... If I spend much more on the truck, the next purchase will be a blow up bed for the back... She'll probably make me park it outside the garage too..

    Why do you think my new sub box design looks like a toilet.. That is just in case.. ;)

    -Mark
    Nice to see that my wife isn't the only one....



    My .02..... I'm going to go with the 12" stealth in my 03, simply because I'm so limited. I had 1 12" before, so this should be comprable.... However, 2 10's are probably going to be great Josh!
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