Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30

Thread: urethane rear bump stop swap

  1. #1
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    urethane rear bump stop swap

    Finally did this and MAN did it help!
    I used the really low profile stops from autozone for ~$10

    Here are the stops...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '03 HD Solid Black - Gone but never forgotten.
    '07 Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon

  2. #2
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    this is the part you are replacing....
    the big yellow dinkus hanging down.
    there's 1 nut on the top side holding it and the metal bracket in place.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    this is the factory stop compared to the urethane replacement...
    you can see where the extra susp travel comes from!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    this is where it gets a little funky...
    because I bought the ultra low stops, when you take out the one bolt that holds the factory stops on, there's a metal bracket that will come off too, I flipped it over, but there's a lip on the frame that hangs down, in order to get the stop lower than the frame lip, I stacked a couple of washers under it, then just bolted it back on.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    this is the finished product!
    picked up about 1.5" of travel in the rear for 1/2 hour and $10
    definitely worth it if you have a dropped rear end.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    #4954, 12APR01
    Name:

    kromdom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,126
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Thumbs up thanks a bunch

    Venom,
    Read about this mods tons of times before but never did know what or where it is??? Excellent pix & tips....thanks! Now I am ready to do it.

  7. #7
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    it's cake bro
    give me a yell if you have any Q's
    taking the wheels off is the hardest part ;)

  8. #8
    #4954, 12APR01
    Name:

    kromdom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,126
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    check this guy out

    He is an ebay vendor with bike stuff...very cheap vs. retail. Bidding on a tinted shield for my ARAI helmet and a VORTEX gas cap. Check him out (saw some stuff for suzooks!):
    http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sort=3&rows=50

    If you need an item that is not listed, e-mail LAURA (Joe's fiance_ and she'll hook you up:
    laura@apexwebs.com

    Tell her ROMEO (Navy guy) told you about their site.

  9. #9
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    you aren't helping me control my spending habit ;)
    I DO need some new rear rubber tho...
    wonder how that happened?

  10. #10
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    you can also get these type of energy suspension bumpstops and they bolt right in, no need to shim or any of that.

    They are a little over an inch shorter than stock, plus you dont reuse the stock metal shim plate which gets you about another 3/8" so you gain about 1.5" of suspension travel.

    http://ftw.truckmoxie.com/showownerp...-4-album-19068

    pic in there, and the PN for those bumpstops is in the descriptoin

    if thats still not enough (although it shoudl be....or you really need a c-notch), a hacksaw will cut the next snubber levels off in like 10 seconds for another 1/4" each step, just be sure to leave it hang down past the frame rail at least 1/4" so your axle wont hit it.


    M.HYDE: 2000 HD F-150 #0356 of 8197, Built 05/18/00, Bought 07/03/00, 700/784, 09.89@138.78
    *Worlds Fastest Street HD: '08/'09/'10/'11/'12/'13****Worlds Fastest Eaton Powered HD: 12.19@112.48 11/17/07*
    D.JEKL: 2000 HD F-150 #1552 of 8197, Built 06/20/00, Bought 06/25/09, 372/450, 13.75@099.46 (*SOLD* 10/15/11)
    REPTAR: 2012 SVTF-150 #2893 of ????, Built 01/19/12, Bought 08/26/11, ???/???, 14.93@091.30
    HASTIE: 2011 GT Mustang 5.0 6-Speed, Built 10/29/10, Bought 11/11/10, 392/352, 12.00@117.79 (*SOLD* 05/14/13)
    BADGER: 2013 Explorer Sport 3.5L TT, Built ??/??/??, Bought 05/14/13, ???/???, 14.53@096.25
    GEN.0L: 1985 XL F-150 w/'94 Lightning Donor Engine Swap, Holley Projection EFI, 03 HD Paint

  11. #11
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    yeah, but I wanted maxium travel without hacksawing.
    3 washers doesn't really bother me ;)

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Name: Chris

    Ayrton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    3,826
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    You can see where you bottoming out with the OEM stop…

    You would think this would be common sense for most folks, but you would be surprised the number of people who I see bottoming out and don’t know why.

  13. #13
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    no hack sawing needed or washers on the slightly bigger rear urethane bumpstops from energy suspension. just bolt right in. dont reuse the stock metal plate (no need for it with the new bumpstops, just will give you more clearance without it) and the bumpstops then stick down about 1/2" past the frame rail, which i wouldn't want it much more since it can still compress if the axle ever did hit it, although i've never bottomed out with a 3" rear drop and a loaded bed.

  14. #14
    Superbeast
    Name:

    Venom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    3,158
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    whatever works for you
    looks like you shoulda done the how-to then since I used the wrong parts.
    I was just trying to help.

    Dunno how you weren't bottoming, my only rear drop is JLP shackles and it bottomed a lot, loaded or not. Must be a '00 thing.

    Or a crappy Florida road/speed bumps everywhere thing ;)

    Like I said, 3 washers really doesn't bother me.

  15. #15
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    its all good. i was just posting up the link with the PN for the bumpstops that bolt right in without washers, or whatever. both will work fine though .

    I never bottomed out with my 2" belltech shackles and stock bumpstops. and then when i got my 3" JLP shackles i got the shorter Energy suspension bumpstops in the rear to get the same amount of clearance back as my 2" drop & stock bump stops, plus a little more.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •