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Thread: Who's done a 4" rear

  1. #31
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    2002harley,

    Your rear sway-bar end links are to long, and you need the adjustable ones form So-Cal.

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    Originally posted by Ayrton
    2002harley,

    Your rear sway-bar end links are to long, and you need the adjustable ones form So-Cal.

    ayrton, i put on longer end links so the sway bars will have a less chance of hitting the frame. if i use the original shorter ones, which will put the bar in the "correct" position, it will hit the frame. also, why do i need the adjustable end links?


    N2TRUX.......my sway bar is from hotchkis. the only thing to consider about the hotchkis bar, when installing it on a 4" drop, is that it mounts on top of the axle. you have a greater chance of it hitting the frame, and exhaust system. i cut part of the bottom of the bed and raised the exhaust up, almost against the bed. if i remember correctly ( i lowered it a year ago), i have 5" of clearance before the axle hits the frame (c-notch) area, 3" before the sway bar hits the frame (at the bend near the end) and 5" before the sway bar (on top of the axle) hits the exhaust system. the main reason i wanted maximum suspension clearance is because i haul my bike, (approx 600 lbs) and it does not bottom out.........plus i drive it fast and hard
    the axle i even auto-crossed it several times you would be surprised what our trucks can do!

  3. #33
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    Originally posted by 2002harley
    ayrton, i put on longer end links so the sway bars will have a less chance of hitting the frame. if i use the original shorter ones, which will put the bar in the "correct" position, it will hit the frame. also, why do i need the adjustable end links?
    You will not need the adjustable ones if you already have shorter ones, and in order for the bar to be at full effectiveness, then is must be parallel with the ground.

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    [i]N2TRUX.......my sway bar is from hotchkis. the only thing to consider about the hotchkis bar, when installing it on a 4" drop, is that it mounts on top of the axle. you have a greater chance of it hitting the frame, and exhaust system. i cut part of the bottom of the bed and raised the exhaust up, almost against the bed. if i remember correctly ( i lowered it a year ago), i have 5" of clearance before the axle hits the frame (c-notch) area, 3" before the sway bar hits the frame (at the bend near the end) and 5" before the sway bar (on top of the axle) hits the exhaust system. the main reason i wanted maximum suspension clearance is because i haul my bike, (approx 600 lbs) and it does not bottom out.........plus i drive it fast and hard
    the axle i even auto-crossed it several times you would be surprised what our trucks can do! [/B]
    Wow, you did alot of work!! Did you have your c-notch custom made or the one that bolts in? Did you loose any handling from it?

    Plus you had to cut out your bed so your exhaust doesnt hit your sway bar??

    Will i have to do the same if i go that route. I dont haul 600 lbs but about 400lbs.

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    You start to run out of clearance real fast when you go lower than 2" in the rear, but a proper C notch will solve that.

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    Do you loose your firm suspension though? I dont want to buy hotchkis for nothing when it will do the same as others. And i'm wondering what it will cost?!?!?

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    As far as handling goes, there is nothing better than the Hotchkis kit.

    There are kits that will go lower, but not handle better.

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    What does Hotchkis do that others don't. Seeing that I have done the hard part and I want to get the rear up 1" if I install the sway bar will that help with the handling?? HB

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    It may have to do with there higher spring rating.

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    960# coils and 300# leafs combined with anti sway bars that are about 80% stiffer than stock=0 body roll.

    A properly designed handling kit.

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    Originally posted by HDsUpErCreWf150
    Wow, you did alot of work!! Did you have your c-notch custom made or the one that bolts in? Did you loose any handling from it?

    i had the c-notch custom made and it bolts in, they say you never want to weld one in, i'm not sure why. the c-notch is supposedly stronger. the metal he used is almost twice as thick as the frame.


    Plus you had to cut out your bed so your exhaust doesnt hit your sway bar??

    just a section of the u-shaped support under the bed.

    Will i have to do the same if i go that route. I dont haul 600 lbs but about 400lbs.
    it can't hurt. but if you don't want to go through all the extra work, and you don't HAVE to lower it 4" in the rear, your best bet would be to get the complete hotchkis set-up, they are geared more on ride and handling.;)

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    I want the hotchkis because of the ride and the handling but i want 3/4 drop kit and they only make a 2/3. I'll try to work it out. Thanks!!

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    here is what i am talking about on the exhaust and swaybar clearance.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Well its too late for me I have a Belltech 3/4 now I want to make changes to the rear Aaaargh. I have a front and rear Sway coming from the group buy. I do not have to worry about the exhaust for mine is already in front of the rear wheel. Nothing like doing it twice. HB

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    O.k. I see. So when you have a drop that low you have to put the sway bar on top. Since its so close you had to move the muffler higher so it clears and wont hit the muffler. That must of been some $$ do you have pics of the c-notch?

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