5x7 adapter install details

[2002GreyHD150]

Well I thought since i just got them done I would show 2 different versions of how to do a component set in a 5x7 opening.

Starting off with 3/16" palte aluminum. Yeah I know its a little overkill, but they wont resonate & they are great for enhancing midbass. Especially if the doors are dampend with B-Quiet or Dynamat.

Blank Aluminum Plate:

[2002GreyHD150]

6.5" A/D/S components installed in a 5x7 aluminum plate:

Note that because the 6.5" is so large, the tweeter gets suspended above the center of the woofer. This actually is optimum for sound distribution as the woofer & tweeter's energy are in theory traveling together to your ear.

Also, since the "bridge" or bracket is simply back-strap material (drilled/sloted metal strap) you can tilt, angle or tweak the direction fo the tweeter slightly before you put the door panel back on. Down the road if an upgrade is wanted. Remove the tweeter, add a 4" or 5.25" mid range with this tweeter in the kick.. leave the 6.5" in the door, no hole for the tweeter to fill.

[2002GreyHD150]

From the backside you can see the wiring "harness" I made, specifically notice the black plug with the white & back wires... this plugs directly into the Ford Wiring, so its a "plug & Play" install with the OEM head unit. If you were using an aftermarket HU, & amps powering the doors, then you would'nt need the plug.

Also, the other reason for the harness is that the crossover's should be placed in the kick panel area. Most crossovers now-days have adjustments in them & they really shouldn't get wet. So the harness actually goes from the OEM plug to the crossover, then through 4-conductor, 16ga (4 16ga wires in one sheath) back to the mid & tweeter. Easy to run, easy to trouble shoot if something happens.

The 4-conductor wire is red(+) black(-) for the midrange White (+) Green (-) for the tweeter. The Oem plug goes through Yellow colored wire to make it totally differnet. That wire is labeled with writting on the (+) lead & blank on the (-).

[2002GreyHD150]

Next we have a more traditional 5.25" mid & tweeter.

Now some times the tweeter is placed above the woofer on the plate. But, for many of the same reasons, often the configuration shown works better.

Tweeter in the middle, better for sound, also if the owner decided to upgrade again, say putting a 6.5" here & moving the tweeter & mid to the kick, the plate is still useable, cut the hole 1/4' larger.. 6.5" in the door... done.

[2002GreyHD150]

Here is the back of the 5.25" set... notice the same "plug & Play"

Also note that this particular component set has the wiring for the tweeter come right through the center of the woofer... making the wiring & mounting of tweeter "coaxially" easier. This system included cups & a little set of "plugs" when the mid & tweeters are mounted seperately.

[2002GreyHD150]

Hope that helps everyone with a visual of what a shop is charging you for when they put components into a 5x7 hole.

Rob W.

[HOGWYLD]

[HarleySteve]

What is the brand and part number of the Speaker Wiring Harness adaptor that you used? I found the Metra but there are two possible part numbers that I have found.

[2002GreyHD150]

I will post them tonight

EDIT: Metra 72-5600

Rob W

[jotay21]

Hey Rob,

Don't you make those plates? If so, I am very interested in a set. I put the Infinity Kappa 5x7 components in my rear doors and they actually produce more mid bass than the Kicker 8" subs I put in the doors. I am replacing the Head unit when I get back from the Middle East so I want to see if that helps first, but if not. I am going to put another set of the Infinity in the front doors. If you do, how much for a set and do you think that I will have any clearance issues between the window and the magnet from the speaker. Thanks.

Josh

[2002GreyHD150]

Josh, I have them made for me by a local machine shop.

they are not designed to accomodate an 8". HD4umla did it the right way:

http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/showthr...threadid=11594

If you wanted to create this in Aluminum (overkill, but that's what I would do cuz I am weird that way) you could.

let me know what about the install doesn't sound right... maybe there is something simple that is off in the instal causing the 8" not to produce... like one speaker with inverted wires, holes in the oodr panel letting sound out around the speaker, vibration in the panel meaning you have the gains down etc.

Rob W.

[jotay21]

I am sorry, I mispoke. I am not sure what the cause of the 8's sound issue is. It could be something that you mentioned. The doors are not dynomatted, but there is not an air gap between the speaker and the door. I could pull them off and redo the surrounds that were used to mount the subs. That would not be much of an issue at all. Mainly, they just sound bad. I am not impressed with them at all. INitially, I thought they were providing the majority of my mid bass, but I now realize it was the Kappa 5x7's and I was just going to put another set of those in there. Are you thinking something different? My question was if the plates that you show here would provide me enough clearance inside the door to use the Kappa 5x7's up front. THanks again.

Josh

[Dbl G]

I had to space my rear's and not my fronts..

[jotay21]

Originally posted by Dbl G
I had to space my rear's and not my fronts..

What brand and model number?

[Dbl G]

There in my sig. Infinity reference 5X7