Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Bilstein Shock Installation Questions

  1. #1
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts

    Bilstein Shock Installation Questions

    Anybody got a good how-to for installing shocks?
    The size sockets and all the tools needed would help also.

    The rear seem pretty self explanitory, but for the front, do i have to take the spring out? or is there some way to drop the shock out, and can i do it myself with a set of jackstands and hand tools? If not i'll have to wait until i do my front drop sometime this summer.

    Also, here's a pic of the shocks....do i need anythign else?

    From the how-to part's # thread, here's what it said

    Lightning Bilstein Shocks

    1L3Z-18124-AC (front)
    1L3Z-18125-AA (rear)

    F65Z-18197-BB (rear insulator nut)
    Well i've got the front and rear shocks with those #'s on them, but i'm not sure if i need the rear insulator nut?

    The front shocks (on the right in the pic) came with a nut and rubber washer type thing in another little bag. The rear shocks came with nothign else though. Do i just use the stock rear shock hardware to mount the rear shocks? or do i have to buy that nut from the ford dealer?

    thanks for any info, and if anybody is doing this soon, or any shocks, a how-to with pics would be great
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (64.9 KB, 185 views)

    M.HYDE: 2000 HD F-150 #0356 of 8197, Built 05/18/00, Bought 07/03/00, 700/784, 09.89@138.78
    *Worlds Fastest Street HD: '08/'09/'10/'11/'12/'13****Worlds Fastest Eaton Powered HD: 12.19@112.48 11/17/07*
    D.JEKL: 2000 HD F-150 #1552 of 8197, Built 06/20/00, Bought 06/25/09, 372/450, 13.75@099.46 (*SOLD* 10/15/11)
    REPTAR: 2012 SVTF-150 #2893 of ????, Built 01/19/12, Bought 08/26/11, ???/???, 14.93@091.30
    HASTIE: 2011 GT Mustang 5.0 6-Speed, Built 10/29/10, Bought 11/11/10, 392/352, 12.00@117.79 (*SOLD* 05/14/13)
    BADGER: 2013 Explorer Sport 3.5L TT, Built ??/??/??, Bought 05/14/13, ???/???, 14.53@096.25
    GEN.0L: 1985 XL F-150 w/'94 Lightning Donor Engine Swap, Holley Projection EFI, 03 HD Paint

  2. #2
    Moderator
    Name: Patrick

    shanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Portland, Texas
    Posts
    659
    Like
    0
    Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts
    The front shock will unbolt from the top and bottom, (do the top first) then the shock will slide out thru a hole in the Lower Control Arm

    Once you get under it and look around you'll immediately see how to do it...

  3. #3
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    Okay, so its that easy? just take the rim off and unbolt it and slide it out. ANybody happen to know how high up the bottom of the A arm has to be off the ground? I'd hate to have the truck all jacked up with the rims and all off and shock unbolted but not up high enough for the shock to slide out all the way

    and is the rear just unbolt and bolt up? any torque specs?

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Name:


    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    616
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Josh,

    When unbolting the front shocks make sure you support the lower A-arm with the jack. If you get the arm up a little over a foot you'll have plenty of room to slide the shock out.

    I'm pretty sure you can reuse the factory nut/washer combo for the rears.
    '03 H-D # 553

    NHTOC # 38

  5. #5
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    Aight, thanks for the info. I might put the fronts on tomorrow if i've got nothing else to do after the FTVB gets installed, then do the rears this weekend.

    One last quesion....can i jack the truck up by the frame up front and then use another jack to raise the lower A arm up? Or should i just jack up under the A arm?
    So then the spring should be compressed when the shock gets installed?

    *edit* oops..another question

    can i use hand tools to remove the shocks? I don't have any air tools. I'll probably have to pick up a metric socket also tomorrow....i've got a ton of sockets, but they are all standard not metric

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Name: Chris

    Ayrton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    3,826
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Josh, use your jack stands to hold the truck up, and then use your jack to support the A arm. Once you get the wheel off you will see how easy it is to replace the shocks.

  7. #7
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    Thanks for the info, i just read a how-to over at http://www.svtlightnings.com/ and it seems relatively easy. I just need to pick up some metric sockets because all my stuff is standard. Figures i've got a pickup truck full and basement full of tons of tools, but not deep metric sockets

    I'm going to do the install saturday morning hopefully. my buddy's gonna let me borrow some of his tools so i don't have to buy them yet. might as well save up and get a whole set later on.

    I'll post results after i do them. Hopefully i'll have the swaybar sometime next week also.

  8. #8
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    one more quick question...

    i've got it down how to do the front....now for the rear

    do it when the truck is sitting on the ground?
    Jacked up by the frame to extend the shocks?
    or just jack the truck up by the axle and leave the shocks compressed?

    Thanks

    o yeah, so you think i can reuse the stock rear insulator nuts?

  9. #9
    Moderator
    Name: Patrick

    shanker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Portland, Texas
    Posts
    659
    Like
    0
    Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts
    for the rear....just jack it up and put jackstands under the axle then go for it....you really only need enough room for you to crawl around comfortably under the truck to get the job done....

    but like I saidl....use jackstands...we dont want any accidentends and lose a NHTOC member

  10. #10
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    damn it! i was out at the ford dealer today and meant to order the rear insulator nuts and totally forgot about it ;c

    you guys think i can reuse the old ones?

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Name: Chris

    Ayrton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    3,826
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Josh,

    I put that part # up because some guys have reported needing it, so try and use you old ones first, and then get the others if you need them.

  12. #12
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    K, i'm doing the shocks on sunday, so hopefully i can reuse the old ones. if not then i'm heading back there wednesday for warranty work so i'll order them then.

  13. #13
    Registered User
    Name:


    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    616
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Do the passanger rear first. Much easier then the driver's side just in case the stock nut/bushing doesn't work.

    Ratcheting combination wrenches ( like Gear Wrench ) are a life saver in shock swaps. Invest in a set of metric GearWrenches as they will become your best friend

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Name: Chris

    Ayrton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    3,826
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Originally posted by RobG
    Ratcheting combination wrenches ( like Gear Wrench ) are a life saver in shock swaps. Invest in a set of metric GearWrenches as they will become your best friend
    Amen...

    Preach on brother Rob:drink:

  15. #15
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    31,073
    Like
    0
    Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
    I definately need to invest in some sort of metric wrenches. I do home remodeling and renovations and decks, so all that stuff is standard not metric

    The Ratcheting combination wrenches you are talking about, are those the ratcheting open ended wrenches? Any cheap place online to order from? I'm sure they'll come in handy down the line anyway if i don't have them in time for the shocks.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •