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Thread: Bilstein Shock Install- Rear

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    Post Bilstein Shock Install- Rear

    just thought i'd do up a little how-to for anybody else that never changed shocks before and is swapping in bilsteins. its pretty easy to do, but if you have any questions, this might help

    Only did the rear today, have to get 2 insulator nuts for the fronts because i used the nuts that came with the front for the rear since the rears didnt come with any, so i'll do another how-to when those come in

    here's the part #'s for everything, and YES you do need the rear insulator nuts, the stock ones are too small

    Lightning Bilstein Shocks

    1L3Z-18124-AC (front)
    1L3Z-18125-AA (rear)

    F65Z-18197-BB (rear insulator nut)
    Front shocks come with insulator nuts and 2 bolts each for the bottom
    Rear shocks come with nothing else, but you need to order the insulator nuts

    You'll also need a 13 mm socket for the front bottom bolts, 18 mm medium socket (deep was too long...it the top of the bed....short was too short ) for the rear bolts, and 21 mm socket for the new rear insulator nut and the front top bolt. A breaker bar comes in handy too, and some RATCHETING OPEN ENDED WRENCHES!!! LoL!

    Don't cut that strap off the bilsteins yet....pic with stock shock and bilstein. man those stock shocks are weak, i could compress them with 1 hand with no trouble
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  2. #2
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    Do the passenger side 1st. I didn't jack the truck up at all, it might make it easier though. i can fit under there aight though and didn't feel like going to all the trouble of digging my jacks and stands out

    Just unbolt the top bolt (18mm) and then unbolt the bottom one (18mm) the shock might just spin when undoing the top one...just grab onto the top sleeve and it'll stay

    (yes yes i know....rust and dirt galore....i'm almost too ashamed to even post these pics When i get a chance though the truck is going up on stands and everything under there is getting cleaned and sanded the rust off of, and painted with semi gloss rustoleum )
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    Bolt in the bottom part of the new bilstein (keep that strap on there still) 18mm.

    Line the top stud up so its right above the hole, and cut the strap off, the shock will extend up into place right away, so be quick cuz once it extends up, its a PITA to compress back down and line back up there. Then just screw the new insulator nut on and tighten down until the rubber washer thing is as big or slightly bigger than the metal washer. The shock will probably spin when you tighten the top bolt...just pull that blue rubber boot down and use another wrench and hold the hex bolt at the very top of the shock in place and it'll stay. then just push up the boot when you're done
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    Drivers side is a little harder, but after 4 trips to the hardware store trying to get all the right sockets i needed since all my stuff is standard not metric, it actually was easier for me
    Didn't want to buy a bunch of single sockets cuz i want to save up and get a nice big set, so i'd buy one....use it real quick, then return it for another one Yes i'm cheap. LoL ;t

    this side was fun though cuz the top bolt is behind the frame rail, but at least the exhaust is out of the way.
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    Bolt the lower part of the shock in(18 mm), just as the other side, and keep the strap on there. Put the top of the shock aimed towards the hole and cut the strap and it'll shoot right up into place.
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    There's just barely enough room between the bed and the frame to fit a 1/2" drive ratchet in there and still be able to turn it enough to bolt the new shock down and remove the old one. the old bolt size is 18 mm and the new one is 21 mm. Might make it easier to remove the tire, but i managed aight
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    weird angle, but above the pic is the back of the axle..you can see the drivers side leaf spring and spare tire there, and the shock mount on a cross member.

    When you bolt in the bilstein from the top, the shock will just spin, its hard to hold a wrench there from underneath and the socket from the fender well to bolt the new nut on, but i found a 6" adjustable wrench wedged right in between the spare tire and the shock worked perfect, so i didn't have to worry about the shock spinning when i was tightening down the insulator nut from the fender well

    also easier to see the nut at the top of the shock rod if you pull the blue rubber boot down. just slide it back up later. it just pops into place.
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    tighten everything down, make sure the top insulator nut has the rubber bushing at least as wide as the metal washer, and push the rubber boot back up.
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    too bad these shocks aren't black and orange LoL

    and don't worry.....once i'm done working down the shore and have more free weekends, i'm cleaning the entire underneath of the truck and painting all the nasty stuff ;t

    hope this helps some of the other dummies like me out there that have a million questions for stuff

    I'll do a front shock how-to when i get the new insulator nuts. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow to order them


    Took the truck out for a short drive after i was done, and even with just the rear shocks on, i noticed a big improvment. handles curves better, and doesn't rock back and forth as much when i hit bumps on the road. Can't wait to get the sway bar and front shocks on
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    I am not going to say "I told you so"

    Good job buddy

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    then i'll say it

    You told me so LoL!

    Anyway, went to the ford dealer today to order 2 more insulator nuts. go up to the parts counter, tell the guy i need 2 insulator nuts for a set of bilstein shocks.
    him- "they come with the shocks"
    me- "no, only the fronts do, the rear don't"
    him- "no, they come with the shocks"
    me- "dude, i'm telling you, only the fronts come with them"
    him- "then take them back to where you bought them from"
    me- "i have the part # right here!"
    him- "just take them back and get a new set"
    me- "yo a hole....i've got money in one hand and a part # in the other, just order me the damn part!"
    him- no comment

    10 bucks though for 2 nuts If i wasn't in such a hurry i would have went though my connection at ford in TX, but that would have taken like another 2 weeks to get them

    Gotta pick them up wednesday when my truck goes in for warranty work. probably do the fronts thursday if i have time.

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    Don't forget your sticker...

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    Yup, also gotta ask about getting both my fogs replaced (leak condensation...only did it once when it was like 33* and i washed the truck, but still want to use up the warranty LoL )

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    Hey Josh, their not far off at 10.00 for the nuts. I paid 28.00 for the shocks and 3.00 each for the nuts. Ford is out of there mind charging 3.00 per nut! I should have mine next week! ;w
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  15. #15
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    Well, when i look at it again, its not TOO bad by ford logic, i mean they could be alot worse . I paid 4 bucks for 4 tiny taillight screws off the Lightning, so these giant nuts with the rubber grommets come in about 4.75 each or so makes sense by ford crazy cost
    I sold a LED 3rd brakelight to the head salesman out there today..didn't even think of having him go and pay list for the nuts for me
    Got the shocks for 27 each, so 118 total for this mod...not bad at all!

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