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Thread: Air Filter / Airbox Mods?

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    Air Filter / Airbox Mods?

    What does everyone like for air filter setups? I see some running open element at the end of the MAF, others just run the pannel in the stock airbox. I know on the mustangs they said not to run open element becuse of underhood heat and fan wash. Is the same thought here, or what air filter setup seems to work best? The prior owner put a panel K&N in, so if that works fine, I'll leave it alone. If I need something else, I'll put it in at the same time I do the FTVB and 6lb lower. Thoughts?

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    harleytruck9144's Avatar
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    if your motor is still fairly stock, a full intake system will give you little if anything. just do the stock box mod, where you cut out a big hole int he bottom and it allows a little "cool" air from below to come in along with still keeping the stock location. check out this page: http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/showthr...=&threadid=621

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    Interesting. Seems like the best thing to do is just to hack the bottom of the stock airbox out and put it back in, yes?

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    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    Did that mod myself with a K and N drop in to begin with.

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    Thats what im gonna do

  6. #6
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    Laugh

    Stock box mod is okay I guess.....but the bling from a polished CAI kit and that massive cone filter wakes everyone up when you open the hood! Plus...wait till you hear the sound....the blower whine will be soooooo sweeeeeet you'll be needing to go to the dentist for your ears.

    I also gained a pound or two of boost by opening everything up right back to the plenum.

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    MRBLUEOVAL's Avatar
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    I say just leave it and do not cut the hole. Its not going to improve it enough to waste the time. K&N and be done. Go for the 8lber and an SCT/Predator dyno tune and add in a FTVB and LFP E-Fan and see 400rwhp! Its that easy! Its not going to be any harder to do and more easily said. 390-400 every time. If you go with a JLP Cold air ram setup its a guaranteed 400 for sure. Then the extra air flow will be helpful!

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    Cut a 2.5" hole in the bottom, attach an ABS insert, run 2.5" flex plastic pipe down to the intercooler where it is attached to a large 2"x 14" shop-vac "scoop" mounted to the IC ... then you have true cold ram air coming in from under the airdam!
    aka LeeRandall - NHTOC #25

  9. #9
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    ACWALSH8's Avatar
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    I was stock a few weeks ago when I bought the JLP intake. I can say that it did help me spin the tires from a stop much better. It also made the SC much louder.

    Looks a hell of a lot nicer also.

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