alternator again.......

[ACWALSH8]

Ok I am sure everyone is tired of reading my alternator threads but I still have the samen damn problem and I think it is getting worse.

So if anyone knows how I can check this new alternator to find our if it actually is putting out the correct amperage that would be a start.

It seems like initially this thing was a beast giving over 15volts at the terminals. Over time this thing has begun to take a shat and is not down to around 14.5-6 at idle and with anything on at all it seems to be doing the same thing my stock alt did. Its like whatever it is that tells it to charge more isnt working.


another thing I noticed tonight was that there was some sort of click noise in the engine compartment. when this click occured the engine rpms dipped down maybe 100 rpms for a few seconds then went back up to the normal 800 or so. What is this I bet it is not normal.


Someone please tell me how I can test this damn powermaster 200+amp alternator. I think it is the biggest POS I have ever purchased and I have purchased a FORD WARRANTY!!!


Thanks,

Chris

[2002GreyHD150]

Chris,

Testing at home is easy, volt meter red to the output terminal, black to the battery negative terminal. engine off, should be 12v+. Start the truck it should go to 13+-15amps depending on the regulator setting. Now hav e some one take the rpms up to 2,500 it should be at a solid 14-15amps. DO this with all loads off.

Next drive the truck over to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Checker/Kragen whatever larger parts chain you have in your area. Have them put the truck on their portable electrical tester. it will tell you what the voltage getting to the battery is. With your alternator, their should have been a "birth certificate" with the warranty card from Powermaster. Find it before you go, take it with you & compare their stats with what the meter shows.


The clicking & the drop in rpm sounds more like A/C cycling or the fan clutch engaging.

Another test. Get a long screwdriver with a plastic handle is possible. right on top of the alternator put the metal end against the body of the alternator & your ear to the handle. If you hear a heavy grinding sound, you might hae a bearing problem. If you hear a gravelly-staticy sound, diodes or the internal regulator may be damaged... this is NOT a scientific test obviously, but in all the years I have used Powermaster products I have had a couple fail & they were great about taking care of them. I've never had a failure on one of my own vehicles. A couple random issues, one bearing failure (I still think the guy was keeping the belt too tight) & a regulator failure (legit failure).

I wish I were closer to NJ, so I could look over your truck. Can you take some pics for me? Show me the alternator wiring, specifically the main power wire. show me your battery terminals. & the junction block under the plastic cover on the fire wall.

Last thing, & please don't take this the wrong way, if those 2 tests, especially at idle or even at 2,500, show you 15amps at any point. I think you are worrying yourself to death over the reality of the music you listen to & the little irritations (like having a door open & the door/dome lights dimming. If the dash isnt dimming, you are fine.

I will contimue to help in any way I can.

Rob W

[ACWALSH8]

Rob PM sent.

[jotay21]

Reading through a couple of other posts, this seems like it might be a trend with the Powermaster alternators. I am curious how many other alternatives are out there.

Josh

[2002GreyHD150]

www.paperformance.com

www.powermastermotorsoprts.com

madfirasari (sp sorry) is a supporting vendor & was wear testing another option as well

Rob W

[ACWALSH8]

josh I am getting it load tested within the next day. it is snowing here right now so it may be another day but I will post the finding and let you know.

Say it does test out ok.....any ideas then? I am assuming remove efan, and amps and get a battery powered boom box?


jk

[bgstew6]

Rob,

Just curious as to what the electrical systems are like on these trucks compared to the older ones. I had problems with the charging system on my 96 Bronco. Thought it was the battery, but it checked out good, then thought it might be the alternator but it checked out good. Turned out to be the voltage regulator. Cost like 15 bucks or so at the autoparts store. Is the volatge regulator on the alt for our trucks?

[ACWALSH8]

Rob here are a few shots I hope....I also sent an email

[ACWALSH8]

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[ACWALSH8]

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[ACWALSH8]

Does anyone know how I can post videos????? I have 2 small 30 sec clips of my voltage readings and of the headlights that I need Rob to see.....please help thanks

[ACWALSH8]

I dont know if this is what you wanted but here is the last few I took.

[ACWALSH8]

just incase people didnt read the post above.......does anyone know how I can upload a 30 sec video???

[Harley#356]

so what exactly is going wrong besides the voltage only showing around 14.5-8 volts instead of 15.xx?

[ACWALSH8]

somehow there is something that is causing a deficiency in my electrical system. I looked at some things again today and it appears that no matter whether the system is charging at 12 or 15 volts the lights dim with the radio on and I am not talking about just at idle either. When the engine is reved up although the voltage at the battery increases....the dimming remains.

This is why something has to be wrong besides just alot of draw as a result of my amps. When I rev the engine although the voltage goes up to over 14 even sometimes up as high as 14.8-9 the damn still lights dim. This is bullshat to me. WTF is causing it?


that is my problem I guess.