Pretty impressive!! Love to read post like this also. Alot of good information in this thread.
Pretty impressive!! Love to read post like this also. Alot of good information in this thread.
Is installation a hassle? The plugs are next on my list and want to know what i'm getting into before I start.
2002 DSG Harley Davidson F-150 #1750 born on 3/20/02
NHTOC #58
2.77 upper, Metco 100mm Idler, Boost by-pass, Accufab TB, Phenolic Spacer, TR6's, FTVB and 4x4 pan, AFCO heat exchanger, Factory Tech tranny cooler, LFP oil seperator, Modified JLP ram air, Bassani 2 cat midpipe, Magnaflow L catback, Predator and dyno tune by James at RWTD, Ruslow slotted & dimpled rotors w/ hawk pads, L Bilstein shocks, Hellwig front & rear sway bars, Belltech 1" drop coils, 2" rear drop shackles, Hankook 295/45's, bedrug, snuglid, CF tails, autometer ultralite boost and tranny guages.
Sold for '03 Cobra
2005 Seadoo RXP - Riva Stage 1
Nowhere to be found;Katrina victim
Ken800
I am under the impression you are a man with vast knowledge of this motor and these trucks.
It was from you post of pulley size calculations from back in Jan. that i got the comfort to attempt to install the L #6 without the chip.
I do not have a digital caliper but the one i have measured the Johnny lightning # 6 pulley in the groove to be 8.8". From your blower calculation sheet from that post it gave the L a blower speed of 14334 with a #2 metco measuring 7.8" and showed the HD with a #5 measuring 8.75" with the blower speed of 14135. I figured that i would go ahead and try it.
But like your post and so many others i wanted to do it with real live dyno numbers to prove to me that this would be a somewhat safe mod.
The thing i am not familiar with is A/F numbers that is where i am relying on the tuners recommendation and any input from the community.
In your opinion my A/F of 11.9 is a good number and i will be ok ?
Thanks for all your help and Thanks for the help from the HD community
Last edited by HOGWYLD; 04-26-2003 at 07:58 AM.
I think 11.9 is a sweet spot personally. Just lean enough to build some decent HP and just rich enough to avoid preignition on decent gas.
The one think to remember is that there are two main ways to encounter detonation (detonation is really a description for a sound you hear when the a/f mixture pre-ignites before top dead center) A blower builds a lot of extra heat, but the intercooler removes that heat. Spark plugs actually are designed to disspate a certain amount of heat. Hotter plugs hold more heat in and ignite fuel more easily than a colder plug. Just a little too much heat from the plug holding in too much and it can actually detontate the mixture before it is supposed to and before timing calls for a spark which ends up with pre-ignition...
Too much timing, regardless of hot or cold plugs, simply ignites the mixture too soon and stresses the motor. Propagation of flame kernal, octane level, cylinder temps, etc. all affect the combustion speed and the optimum time to light the flame varies based on these issues. Too soon = kaboom. Too late = no power...
As for heat, leaner mixtures burn hotter than richer mixtures. The blower introduces a lot of heat and air volume that does not exist on an N/A engine. The "spread" between light throttle cruise and WOT is HUGE. This makes it bit more of a challenge to tune, program, pick a plug for, etc. For example: A plug that is cold enough to keep timing higher and keep boost high at WOT would be too cold at idle and would stumble. A plug that works on both ends is not optimum for either end, but fills the bill. On an N/A motor, the extremes are a lot less and so its not as hard to pick a plug...
I have owned a small army of jetskis, motorcycles, 4wheelers, gokarts, and other miscellaneous motored objects of all sorts and am quite familiar with the entire combustion process of the gasoline engine. I rebuilt a few of them, tuned most of them, etc. I've melted more than one motor in my days pushing it over the edge. Ever see a piston melt due to too much heat from too little fuel? No detonation to speak of, just intense head and a liquid pistion... The blower is a new twist for me, so as I learn more and more, I become more comfortable with discussion of this motor. The trick here is that this motor costs a lot more...
Ken
by the way,
from my early research, most of the blower pullies are being rated by OUTSIDE diameter. Typically they have about a .200" lip to keep the belt from wandering. That 8.8 is called a 9" pulley by the current community, but it is my belief that all pullies should be measure by the belt contact area.
I would love to get a digital caliper and measure the OD and Lip of every tuners pulley for all sizes and commit them to a spreadsheet.... That would be helpful info for tuners that actually *care* or *know* what they are doing rather than just saying "hey, a 6lb is just a 4 on a harley".
Ken
Ken I thought you might find this interesting....
Metco 2# 7.75
Metco 4# 8.25
Metco 6# 8.625
ASP/PSP 2# 7.9
ASP/PSP 4# 8.4
ASP/PSP 6# 9.0
JLP 3# 8.17
JLP 4# 8.5
JLP 5# 8.7500 (confirmed this in our metrology lab)
JLP 6# 9.0
This info is from a thread running over @ online.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/sho...hreadid=114556
$69? They are selling them for basically cost? WOW! I went to both of their websites and both show 85, and 5 on the shipping for LFP.Originally posted by Richo
I have been shopping around for Denso IT22's and found that Mark form LFP has them for $69.00 shipped. Johnny Lightning has also posted them for $69.99 shipped. One of the other vendors on this site has them for for 74.00 shipped! Great plugs!
Those #'s are engine KILLERS! You don't even want an N/A vehicle running that.Originally posted by CajunCobra
Is 11.5 a bit rich???? Supercharged vehicles normally make max power at 13.2-13.6 A/F ratio
N/A is best 12.5 to 13.0 max
S/C, T/C, NOS = best 11.5 to 12.0 max
It's imperative that everyone monitors their afr #'s after adding in a pulley and/or exhaust. Monitor at all rpms throughout the band, but pay extra attention from torque peak on up to redline. I prefer tuning my vehicles and customers' vehicles using the guidelines I just gave above.
I find hardly any different on power between 12.5 and 13.0 on LS1's, and rarely anything different on a S/C Lightning, Harley, or Cobra between 11.5 and 12.0. Attempting to pull out that last 5 rwhp at the possible expense of a rod, piston, and block, is NOT worth it folks.
Sincerely...
I would really like to know how the new NGK Iridiums compare to the Densos.
Anybody had a side by side yet?
What is the NGK iridium equivelent of the IT16?Originally posted by Ayrton
I would really like to know how the new NGK Iridiums compare to the Densos.
Anybody had a side by side yet?
Lance
NGK Iridium TR55ix is the equivalent. They were *suppose* to be producing the version with the heatrange of a TR6 but I still haven't seen them for sale yet.Originally posted by slow35th
What is the NGK iridium equivelent of the IT16?
Also, the NGK's have a .6mm tip and the Denso's have a finer .4mm.
As for which plug is the better, I'll still with Denso's; they work, and have been proven time and time again. $80 bucks for some sparkplugs is not expensive, especially given the longevity and durability of the Denso's, not to mention that you can get them in many different needed heatranges for these trucks.
Sincerely...
Thanks bro...
The $80 doesn't bother me, and I know the Densos work, but if the NGKs were tougher...
:drink:
The driveability characteristics of a Denso compared to a TR6 is night and day IMHO, especially at idle. I've seen before/after dyno of the same vehicle on the same day produce a much less etchy line across the graph going from NGKs to Densos.Originally posted by EatonCharged
tr6's here, i still think there is no difference.
Sincerely...
Not even close...Originally posted by EatonCharged
tr6's here, i still think there is no difference.
The Denso is a much more consistent plug.
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