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Thread: #6 Lower/no Chip/dyno Results

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    #6 Lower/no Chip/dyno Results

    OK There has been a lot of talk about it ,I finally did it today and i will tell you all the results.

    Let me start by saying i have 02 dsg screw 6500 miles with the only mods were stock air box mod with K&N filter.

    The temp today is a mild 78 deg. 50%hum. with bar. pressure at 29.95
    and my local elev. is 1600 ft.

    We did all testing with 91 octane pump gas.

    When i arrived to the shop i allowed the truck to cool for 1 hour before we started the first dyno.

    We also allowed the truck to cool on each dyno as it took about an hour or so to change the plugs and about the same to install the pulley and both belts to gator-back belts.


    Stock dyno results :

    (DYNO RUN 1 )316.7 hp 395.6 torq. A/F 11.50/1 @ 5200 rpm



    Changed plugs to denso it 22 gap @.38

    (DYNO RUN 2 ) 334.3 hp 406.0 torq. A/F 11.55/1 @ 5200rpm



    Changed to JL 6# lightning pulley (measures 8.80" in the groove)

    (DYNO RUN 3 ) 355.3 hp 464.5 torq. A/F 11.9/1 @ 5200 rpm

    The truck really come alive now and you defiantly hear the supercharger howl.

    No detonation at all

    I am not saying that this mod is ok for anybody to run but i can say that i feel good about running it(not that i know much about these trucks )And i trust my Tuner that said for my truck and my situation this would be O.K.


    I LOVE IT.
    Last edited by HOGWYLD; 04-26-2003 at 08:14 AM.

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    Get Blown!!!
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    Congrats Him8nce. Thanks for the info. Great #'s. I really need to get me some denso's.
    2004 Cobra coupe and it's fast!!
    455 rwhp and 460 rwtq.

    Gone but never forgotten. 2003 2-tone. Build #2767

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    Nice #'s....especially from the spark plugs. I didn't think the plugs would be worth that much.
    David Tuschhoff
    02' DSG HD F150 5.4L SC
    91' Camaro Z28 5.8L NA

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    Is 11.5 a bit rich???? Supercharged vehicles normally make max power at 13.2-13.6 A/F ratio

    Gauge READING FULL THROTTLE AIR/FUEL RATIO
    .000 17.0:1
    .100 17.0:1
    .200 16.0:1
    .300 15.5:1
    .400 15.0:1
    .500 14.7.0:1
    .600 Dangerously Lean 14.6:1
    .700 Getting lean 14.5:1
    .800 Max power(Lean) normally aspirated 14.2:1
    .875 Max Power normally aspirated 13.5:1
    .900 Max Power (Rich) (NOS,blower,Turbo) 13.2:1
    1.000 Very Rich 12.5:1
    .DT

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    BLWN HOG
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    Now these are the kind of threads that I like reading

    Awesome numbers, especially on the torque side
    Would you be kind enough to post the graphs when you get a chance.

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    gotta get me some Denso's
    *03 HD black #1469* SOLD
    92 Mustang coupe 306/turbo
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    I really don't know if this is to rich, I only can report the readings from the DYNO.

    I was told by the guys a powerhouse performance that this is a safe range to run in especially for a daily driver.They said they were actually pleased with these numbers if it was in the high 13's he would not suggest to me that i would be ok without a chip.

    I am learning alot of this as i go and by reading all the great post on this sight.

    PLEASE TELL ME IF THEY ARE WRONG about this being a good set up for a daily driver.

    ANY INPUT ???

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    Eaton: Backwards, 12 is too rich, means 12 parts air to 1 part fuel. 14+ is very lean, means 14 parts air to 1 part fuel. Lean refers to fuel, too lean on fuel means too rich on air.
    DT

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    H: To each his own preference. I would rather a bit leaner to make a bit more power. Too lean is not safe, too rich is not safe. You are well within a safe range.
    DT

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    Is there a way to get leaner other than a chip ?

    I may consider the diablo predator when they are released .

    Is this my only option that wont void my warranty as i bought the ford 100,000 mile warranty.

  11. #11
    EN-V-me
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    didn't think plugs made that big of a differance im gonna be getting some

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    The stock plugs are poo-poo.;p

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    Vader
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    Originally posted by EatonCharged
    well i know what lean rich is, but i thought 12:1 was lean
    If you listen to the L boys it is. I don't know that I would feel comfortable with an air/fuel of 13, but that's me.

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    I have been shopping around for Denso IT22's and found that Mark form LFP has them for $69.00 shipped. Johnny Lightning has also posted them for $69.99 shipped. One of the other vendors on this site has them for for 74.00 shipped! Great plugs!
    NHTOC # 21
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  15. #15
    Maximus Horsepowerus
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    I would offer that my autotap manual states that the 02 sensors are trying to constantly achieve a 14.7 A/F at cruise speeds. That's pretty lean by the standards of the L community, but to be specific, it is perfect...

    That being said, pouring fuel into the engine will certainly make it run cooler and produce less HP... I would bet that, while most consider 12.0-12.3 the upper to very upper edge of safe on the L/HD engine, it is not because it is not the most efficient or the most safe.

    As you may or may not be aware, our engine does not have a functional knock sensor and cannot retard timing. Because of this, a safer tune needs to be in place to avoid detonation. We also have garbage rods which contribute to the need to avoid detonation at all cost...

    Given a functional knock sensor that could retard timing to avoid detonation, you could safely up the timing a bit more, and lean it out a bit for maximum power...

    It's all in the design of this motor. My personal belief, and I won't tell ANYONE they are wrong, because I'm just not that sure, is that anything over 12.0 starts to head for trouble under *certain* conditions, but not *all* conditions. Stoichemetric is the term applied to the optimum air/fuel ratio for best performance. That number is 14.7:1 A/F. Unfortunately, this requires all things to be smooth... If the plug is retaining too much heat, or timing is a little too advanced for a tank of garbage gas, or the temp is really cold and the stock computer is adding timing, the perfect world goes away and 14.7 is no longer safe... The blower is introducing more heat right out of the gate and the more heat you have, the more you can create detonation and therefore need more fuel to keep things cooler and stay on the side of safe. I would suspect that the A/F numbers could approach N/A numbers with a KB blower at low boost since that would produce much less heat than the Eaton.

    A tuner will tell you that engines always seem to run best right before they let go... (that's in reference to running the most timing and leanest possible and then falling over the edge and the motor grenading).

    I'm tyring to keep mine in the 11.7-11.9:1 on the dyno since the number on the street will be higher since the dyno doesn't simulate the full 5600 pound load. On the street, that should equate to somewhere in the 12.0 to 12.5 under heavy load...

    Ken

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