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Thread: Filling in supercharger silencer holes!

  1. #106
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    Done!!!!

  2. #107
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    the steig stage II port has the extra triangular opening there as well.

    and race tested has a direct port nitrous setup. not many guys have stepped up and gone with it, just a couple BIG number L guys, and they are making some crazy power with the direct port setups!

  3. #108
    481/555 right now :-)
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    There was just an article on putting the fogger right behind the throttle bottle in the plenum. I'm trying to figure out a good place right now before I get a Torrie tune.

    Any thoughts? I was thinking right around the inside horizontal curve of the plenum slightly below center on an upward angle to get a nice wide spray. The article was with a whipple so I'm up for any ideas regarding the Eaton.

    http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...all/index.html

    Hope you all can get to the article.

  4. #109
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    if your going to do just a small shot then just spray under the blower right on top of the intercooler that way it DROPS your temps ALOT!!!

  5. #110
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    how is this...



    kinda shi^&^ job but hey...

    ITS ALOT LOUDER!!!!!

    Had to take the gf for a ride....

    SHE SAID ITS SOOOOOOOOOO RETARDDDDDDDDDDDEEEEEEEEEEEDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

    LOUD!!!!

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    This is really confusing. I've seen many references to the holes, slots, etc. in the M-series as "silencers", "noise suppression holes", etc. but no attribution to the source (Eaton, Magnuson?).
    Where does this analysis come from?

  7. #112
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    Question Any pictures on the silencer holes to fill?

    Can someone point out what silencer holes that need to be filled up??

    Sounds dumb but Reuther know now than when I have it apart :-)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #113
    2003 H/D #6809
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziggie View Post
    Can someone point out what silencer holes that need to be filled up??

    Sounds dumb but Reuther know now than when I have it apart :-)

    the 4 rectangular holes on either side of the main hole. Be sure to do one side at a time, i got lucky doing both sides and not having the tape sag, trust me only 1 SIDE at a TIME!!

  9. #114
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    These ??

    Fill these holes?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #115
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    yes

  11. #116
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    easy as CAKE!!!

    and MAN!! its louder... FO SHO!!!

  12. #117
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    i was find doing both sides at once. just tape on the inside covering the holes, some JB Qwik slabbed in there, then flipped the blower over so if any sagging did occur, it would be sagging away from the rotors and towards the outside. JBQwik sets up in 5 mins too so not as much downtime as normal JB Weld

  13. #118
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    So this CAN be done without removing the rotors correct? Whats the clearance like, to get the tape in? I just bought this truck, and dont yet feel comfortable tearing off the S/C, never had a charged motor before. The simpler the better. It has 54k on it, and no oil seperator, so I need to get in there anyway. (which Im a bit weary on doing that as well)

  14. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicHD View Post
    So this CAN be done without removing the rotors correct? Whats the clearance like, to get the tape in? I just bought this truck, and dont yet feel comfortable tearing off the S/C, never had a charged motor before. The simpler the better. It has 54k on it, and no oil seperator, so I need to get in there anyway. (which Im a bit weary on doing that as well)
    the rotors just pull out easy as cake...

    just unbolt the snout and wiggle it loose... they are a snug fit so take your time...

    tape the inside and jb weld it to hell...

  15. #120
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    its not that hard pulling the rotors, the snout bolts come out then the rotors slide out, you just have to put new s/c oil in when you put it back together, but it can be done without pulling the rotors, there's room to rotate them around to get to the silencer holes to tape them up.

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