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Thread: where to buy an alternator

  1. #46
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    the fuse link is more of a diagnostic protection than anything.. I wouldnt worry to much about it Josh...

    Rob W

  2. #47
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    praise the lord and pass the tequila!
    think this may have beeb my whole problem?
    spent $600 I didnt have to find out the problem was a $7 solenoid.
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    '03 HD Solid Black - Gone but never forgotten.
    '07 Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon

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    I'm glad you fixed it even though it sucks you had to dish out $600 bucks for a new battery and alternator. But, at least those 2 things you won't have to worry about for a while.
    Sean E.
    '02 DSG HD ( Gone but will always have a special place in my heart...)

  4. #49
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    How in the hell did you do that?

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    Actually I just woke up one day and thought I'd see how much $$ I could spend on a simple problem....

    I think loose terminal made LOTS of heat, made the plastic brittle then when I went to tighten it, it just crumbled

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    gotta love parts still made from Bakelite... One of Ford's lesser brilliant ideas.. LOL with all the thermo-expansion plastics out there.. you'd think they would have moved on... lol

    Rob W

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    just wanna publicly thank Mike (2manytrucks) for sitting on yahoo IM with me for hours and troubleshooting this thing!
    as well as all you guys making suggestions on here

  8. #53
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    well aint that a biatch! haha

    too bad you didnt buy a chrome 200 amp alternator, i would have bought it off you. the one on my truck is for sale

    glad you got the issue figured out!

  9. #54
    Man this is expensive!!!
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    Anytime Larry....

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    ok, the chapter is FINALLY closed on this one!
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    I spoke too soon, since I did allll that crap, things have still flaked out on occasion, been getting worse lately.
    Driving along or parked and all of a sudden, the batter gauge just dips. Last time I pulled over and put a meter on the batt and was able to watch it slowly drop with the truck running.

    Well, turns out it looks like the plug that goes intot he alternator is bad!
    I can mash on it, the truck charges, let it go and it sometimes charges. Just like before. So now I'm changing that plug BUT in Ford's engineering wisdom, you can reach the plug BUT there is about 1/8" too little clearance between it and the blower to pull it off. Had to loosen the alt and tilt it forward to get the plug off.
    Waiting on dad to get back from the parts store with a new plug.

    GRrRRRRrRrrRRrrRR

  12. #57
    Man this is expensive!!!
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    I think it is an omen telling you not to go to Texas......just kidding. Hope you get it fixed.

  13. #58
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    Em Postive cable kit...& then goto a local alternator rebuild shop ask them for a primary alternator plug pig tail.they ahve them. Always.. $15-20. Then get some heat shrink of the proper sizes for thepig tail. SOLDER thepig tail to the oem harness... you should never have to look back.

    Rob W

  14. #59
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    where do the 2 wires coming off of that plug go?
    wondering about replacing them too.

    This would be a real extreme coincidence, but I'm wondering if all my problems before were from the cracked solenoid and the new PA alternator is bad and gets flaky/craps out when it gets hot?

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    I think your solenoid may ahve just baked/overheated some parts (ie wiring) to the point they have failed... theinternittent nature of the charging pretty much rules out the alternator being completely roached. Sounds like the common pigtail problem to me.

    off the alt you have the big power feed wire, then 2-3 average sized wires. they are Key-On to energize the alternator Field, a 12v referencefromthe battery for the regulator, & then the stator wire.... the pigtail just replaces the melted one wire for wire, color for color

    Rob W

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