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Thread: Electrical system is jacked!!!

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    Procharged
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    Electrical system is jacked!!!

    I have absolutly no idea what is wrong but i do know its electrical. Windows wont go up, i can only move the shifter when the key is in the second position(so i put it in nutreul then start it), headlights quit working, foglights quite, sometime turn signals work, tail lights work i think. What could possible cause all of these problems. Ive heard Body control module but have no idea where it is, what it is, etc... Rob help.
    Daily driver: 2001 Mustang Cobra- Eibach suspension, Tokico struts, Maximum motorsports full length subframes, 4.10 gears, MGW short throw shifter, JLT cold air intake, Bassani X-pipe, Bassani Catbak, full sound system

    Project ride: 2000 Harley truck- Belltech 4/6 drop, custom 5 point rollcage, ATI procharged, custom built (billet) blower bracket, polished P1SC, custom built kooks longtubes, custom built 3in Xpipe, black MB motoring 22's, 42# fuel injectors, 90mm MAF, 255lph intank pump, 3.73 gears, built tranny w/ PI stall, full show sound system

  2. #2
    SEMPER FI
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    MSGTJTGANG's Avatar
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    Maybe a good exorcist if Rob can't figue it out

  3. #3
    Superbeast
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    your truck is mad at youuuuuuu!

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    Rob... start at the main junction/relay/solenoid under the plastic cover by the battery... if the Bakelite material is crackedor even stressed the main battery contact will be all whacked out... one of the other guys on here had that problem & all kinds of weird chraging problems.

    Next, I would check the Main connection to the power idstribution center under the hood. I have heard of the female socket & male plug baking themselves into goo. & on the flip side, excessive hot/cold cycles cause the connections to corrode. BRC electrical contact cleaner should be in EVERY harley truck owner's detail kit.

    BCM (Body COntrol Module) should be the large silver or black computer looking unit straight up/behind the parking brake. All F150's with power locksuse the same BCM. Manual window/lock trucks have a much smaller BCM. So head to oneof the salvage yardsover in Lewisville/Carrolton & just look for an F150 with power locks/windows $25 tops. Ude the BRC cleaner on all the connectors. If they are corroded exspecially with a white-ish ash looking shiznit on the wires or contact do not buy it... its been wet.

    Back to general electrical. from the main distribution box under the hood things go to the modular fuse panel... again all connectors are suspect.

    Major electrical malfunctions usually are a major component failure & not a combinationof small gremlins. SO BCM, Main Distribution or Fuse panel are where I would start.

    OH I forgot: DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT!!!!! ONLY USE A FUSED VOLTMETER TO TEST CONNECTIONS!!!!!!

    {Mainly for everyone elses benefit Rob, not yours personally.}

    Rob W
    Last edited by 2002GreyHD150; 09-19-2005 at 07:29 PM.

  5. #5
    Procharged
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    00harleytruck's Avatar
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    LOL i know my truck is mad at me, i rag the crap out of it!

  6. #6
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    sounds like the ignition switch to me. Had one go out on one of my Broncos back in the 90's and similiar symptoms as you with not being able to move the shifter unles the key was in the second position. After I got it started, would have trouble with pwr windows and lights. Had to play with the ignition switch to find the sweet spot to get them to work.

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    good call Stew.... very well could be that simple... bravo!

    learn something new everyday.... add that to the troubleshooting list...



    Rob W

  8. #8
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
    Name: stew

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    Funny thing was when I asked what casued the ignition switch to go out so soon, truck was only 6 years old. The Ford Mech told me that it was commonly induced by people who have a bunch of keys on their key chain, and somehow all that extra added weight caused it to go out. Now when I had it looked at, I only had the ignition key on the ring, I had second ring of keys that usually were on it (bout 22 of them) in my pocket.

    GO FIGURE

  9. #9
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    sound like the problem is in the ignition switch .

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