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Thread: How To: Replace Brake Rotors, Front and Rear

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    How To: Replace Brake Rotors, Front and Rear

    How To: Replace Brake Rotors, Front and Rear

    FRONT ROTOR REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES
    When replacing the FRONT rotors, the entire hub must be replaced, so the wheel bearings have to be inspected/repacked with grease and the seals replaced.

    BEFORE YOU BEGIN
    It's probably best to plan ahead and buy the following items:

    - Brake Pads (good high quality semi-metallic or ceramic)
    - New rotor seals (See note below!)
    - Bearing Grease (hi-temp)
    - Brake Cleaner (spray is fine)
    - New Cotter pins (at least 2)

    Tools Needed

    - Both 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive wratchets
    - Large adjustable wrench
    - Needle nose pliers
    - Large C-Clamp
    - Rubber Mallot
    - Torque wrench, 1/2 inch

    Note about seals. I found that all seals are NOT alike. The seals on my H-D was different than what was being sold at the local Autozone. You may want to get OEM seals from Ford.

    1. Beginning your project.
    Begin by placing your truck on secure JACK STANDS on a solid surface (not dirt, grass, or sand). Remove the wheels and set them aside. Un-bolt the brake caliper from the brake caliper retainer assembly by removing the (2) brake caliper bolts. Hang the brake caliper to the side with a piece of wire or rubber bungy. You can go ahead and remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and retainer at this point (shown below).




    2. Removing the rotors.
    In order to removed the rotor, you must remove the brake caliper retaining assembly. You will need to use a 1/2 drive and socket to remove the bolts (torqued to 136 ft/lbs). These bolts are tough so be prepared.



    With the brake caliper retaining assembly (in left hand) removed. You can remove the rotor. Take care as to NOT drop your outer wheel bearing onto the ground. You don't want the grease on the bearing picking up any grit.



    3. Inspect the new rotors.
    Make sure that they have the same lug size. Then clean the new rotors with your brake cleaner and a clean rag to remove any oils or rust preventers from the metal.



    When your satisfied that everything is in order. Remove the old grease seal from your old rotors and remove the bearings. Inspect both the outer and inner bearings for damage. Note that OEM outer bearing cones have a plastic roller retainer. Check the plastic for wear and replace the bearing if needed. The OEM inner bearing cones have metal roller retainers.

    4. Repack the bearings and replace the seals.
    Make sure that you use high-temp rated grease. Brakes generate a lot of heat. Regular chassis grease is NOT recommended. Although it can be done by hand, you can't beat the $5 bearing packers available at any auto parts stores. Pump the grease through until the new grease is oozing out of the cage, and you're done. Smear a little extra grease in the hub on the bearing races and re-install the bearings.



    5. Inspect your spindles and clean the ABS sensor.
    Before re-installing you new rotors onto the spindles. You need to inspect the spindles for damage and clean the ABS sensors.



    The ABS sensor can be cleaned with a small wire brush or old tooth brush.

    6. Install the new rotors.
    Now your ready to install your new rotors. Note: Make sure that if you are installing slotted rotors that the correct one is installed on the correct spindle. Gently slide your new rotor onto the spindle and re-install the outer bearing, bearing washer, and axle nut. Pull out your trusty torque wrench and following the tightening procedure below.

    Tighten the axle nut.
    a.While rotating the rotor CW, tighten nut to 30 ft.lbs.
    b.While rotating CW, loosen 2 turns.
    c.While rotating CCW, tighten to 17-24 ft.lbs.
    d.While rotating CW, loosen 1/2 turn.
    e.While rotating CW, tighten to 17 INCH lbs.

    When you've completed the tightening procedure on both rotors. Replace the cotter pin/retainer and dust cover. You may need to replace the dust covers if they were damaged during removal. I bent the lips slightly on mine because they were just loose enough to pop off the hubs. Make sure they are nice and tight.



    7. Re-install the brake caliper retainer assembly. Note to torque the bolts to 136 ft/lb with your 1/2 inch torque wrench. Using a C-clamp and one of your old brake pads. Compress the caliper pistons so that you can install your new brake pads. Make sure that you remove the cap from you brake fluid resevoir under the hood. Don't let it overflow either. When both brake calipers are compressed. Install your new brake pads and bolt the brake caliper back into place.



    Note: Brake pad makers all have their own procedures for prepping the pads for install. Most high end brake pads come with shims that reduce pad vibration and squeal. I like to use a brake pad spray that prevents vibration and squeal. Either way, follow the instructions that come with your brake pads.

    Finally, inspect your work and complete anything that has not been done (i.e. bleed the brakes if needed, paint your calipers, replace brake lines, etc etc. If nothing is left to do? Put your wheels back on and follow the break-in procedure provided with your rotors and brake pads.

    The FRONTS are done.

    REAR ROTOR REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES

    The REAR brake rotors are a piece of cake. No bearings to inspect or repack. The brake rotors simply slide off and new slides on.

    1. Remove the wheels and inspect the brakes.
    If everything looks ok and no damage. Then you can proceed. Replacing the rear rotors is relatively simple compared to the front rotors.



    In this case, all that is needed is to remove the brake caliper (shown below).



    2. Remove the old brake rotor from the axle. It should just slide off. In my case, it was on there pretty good so I sprayed some WD-40 around the axle hub and lugs and let it soak for a few minutes.



    After some wiggling, the old rotor slid right off.

    WARNING!! In extreme cases, I've had to use a 3 claw puller and force the rotors off. This is very dangerous and you can seriously hurt yourself if you have no experience removing rotors this way. Usually under pressure, when the rotor comes off, it comes off flying and possibly broken into pieces. If your rotors are seized to the axle hub and absolutely refuse to come off. Take your truck to your favorite mechanic and have them remove it!

    3. Inspect your emergency brakes and axle seals.
    UT OHH! This does not look good. My axle seal is leaking! This will be a PITA to fix. This means removing the axle from the differential housing and all the crap you have to do along with it.



    It does not appear to be too bad so I am going to save this for another weekend when I have a few hours to fix it.

    4. Replace the brake pads.
    Compress the brake caliper pistons using your trusty C-clap and an old brake pad (show below). Make sure that you monitor your brake fluid resevoir so that it does not overflow.



    In my case, the rear brake pads were so worn that I had to remove some brake fluid as I compressed the brake caliper piston back in.



    I compared the NEW brake pad to the OLD worn pad. WOW! This is a rear pad with 65k miles on it. They were due to be changed out.



    5. Re-Assembly
    Put your new rotors on, they should slide on easily. Install you NEW brake pads into the brake caliper. And bolt the brake caliper to the axle. I just hand tightened the bolts to around 17-25 ft/lbs. Not too tight.



    Your all done. Now go seat the pads using the break-in procedure provided with the brake pads.

    NO BREAK-IN PROCEDURE???
    This is one way to break-in your brake pads. Before you even move your truck. Crank up and slowly pump the brakes until you have even pressure and the brake peddle does not easily go down.

    Now take your truck for a spin. Take off until you reach about 20 mph and slowly bring your truck to a stop by applying even pressure to the brakes. When you come to a complete stop, sit there for a moment maintaining pressure on the brakes. Repeat this process a few times until you no longer get jitter (slippage) from the brakes as your truck finally stops. It may take 4-6 times of repeating this process before the pads mate to the new rotors. Be patient and take your time.

    Once no more brake jitter (slippage) is occuring. Your pads should be mated with the rotors. However, still go easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles of driving. NO HARD BRAKING if you can help it. Check your rotors from time to time to ensure even wear. Re-Torque your lug nuts after 100 miles as well.

    All done... Happy Hemi Killing...

    -Del
    Last edited by Delmustator; 01-22-2006 at 01:35 PM.

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    Awesome!
    Thanks for the How-To
    I'll be doing this very soon!

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    World's Fastest Street HD
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    WOO HOO!!! thanks Del!!! i've been waiting forever for somebody to do up a how to for brakes with pics and all!

    will be tackling mine in the fall

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    Tidy job sir ,,,
    IN MEMORY OF
    Blake (Fuzion) Finnel 12-3-1986 - 08-11-2007
    NHTOC #120

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    OK, the rears are done and the procedure posted.

    Note: I reduced the size of the pictures to 600xXXX to reduce load times.

    Enjoy!

    -Del
    Last edited by Delmustator; 01-22-2006 at 01:29 PM.

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    Well I drove my truck around for about 30 miles today just breaking in the new rotors and pads and all I can say is "WOW"! What a difference in stopping power!

    I barely have to apply pressure to the brakes and this 3 ton truck is coming to a quick stop!

    NOTE ABOUT THE CHOICE OF DRILLED, SLOTTED, DIMPLED, etc rotors.

    Having read all the comments about the different types of rotors. I decided to get with the pros and talk with the guys over at Team Marines Racing over in Mooresville, NC. Team Marines is part of the NASCAR Busch Series with car number 24. Actually there were a bunch of #24 cars in their shop. One for each track they race.. LOL

    Anyway, my buddy is Chief Pilot for the team. So we took a little ride to take a tour and talk with the gurus about brakes. After some discussion about the pros and cons, the bottomline is this.

    Cross Drilled/Slotted brakes can be prone to cracking BUT at normal street driving temperatures, I should be OK. I should also get longer life, lower temperatures, and much better stopping power from these RotorPros.

    I looked at some rotors that had gone a full race and they looked relatively good, for rotors that had been turned red more than a few times due to braking heat. Depending on the track, these can go from 1 to 3 races before being thrown in the trash. Of course, they had triple piston caliper setups that made me drool.

    So I walked away from the visit with some info and a couple of shirts. I'm modeling the nice dress shirt below, got a nice sweat shirt as well.

    Oh did I mention that they race FORDS!!!



    -Del
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    Last edited by Delmustator; 01-22-2006 at 06:40 PM.

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    Hell of a job Del,nicely done...

    Click Signature Pic For Gallery...

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    Josh, you should drag this over to the how too section and make it a sticky, Again Mr. Forest a beautiful job, Sir.....We do have some talented folk around here....

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    Originally posted by Dbl G
    Josh, you should drag this over to the how too section and make it a sticky, Again Mr. Forest a beautiful job, Sir.....We do have some talented folk around here....
    LOL... This is the How To: section...

    Sticky is a by-product of having too much fun.. LOL

    Hope this helps anyone who needs to do it.

    -Del

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    Opp's me no read so welllllll

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    Great how to!

    Another vol fan too, so double points for that

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    Oki 916's Dad NHTOC #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarleyF150 View Post
    Great how to!


    it is a great how to.
    Two year resurrection- what's the record??

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    I knew it was old, but since I'm just using it now I figured I would show my appreciation.

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    lol yeah its all good for the how-to section. its when somebody digs up a few year old thread in the main forum and asks a question to the first post as if it was posted yesterday and the member who even started the thread originally has been long gone

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