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Thread: How to Fix Spongy Brake Pedal Feel

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgstew6 View Post
    Think it was fade to black on SVTP...

    The adjustment process is found on your (if you happen to have one) FOrd Service CD manual as well.
    Finally got my system to read my service CD.
    Need to burn off some and give them away as Xmas gifts to NHTOC members.
    Tazz

  2. #17
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    Yup...been doing it for years LOL

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    Kinda related to the same subject.
    Looks like a slight different design for the brake pedal so that they don't tear on the ends as easy.
    Tazz
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Those are acceptable!! I like it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bgstew6 View Post
    Yup...been doing it for years LOL
    Yeah had mine for 2 years but could never use it.
    Tazz

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    I need to ask Nbedt how much for the new redesigned brake pedal?
    Tazz

  7. #22
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    interesting change!

    I'd be down for a full set. I just got a spare gas pedal for $5 off NLOC so I can chop that one down to get the SS ones to fit

  8. #23
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    I probably would contact aac4parts and maybe they would cut a deal if a person bought the set with the new design.
    Tazz

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    And here I thought it was because our trucks were heavy and had bad brakes. Well that's what Ford told me. Can't wait till I get home and try this. If it works on mine then 2 guys I work with will be next.

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    I guess I need to try this on mine. I had the booster, master cylinder replaced and the lines bled 2 weeks ago. Still need to pump the brakes to stay stopped at a stop light.

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    Looking at doing this this weekend but have a few questions first.
    1. Since all of the oil lines stay connected to the master cylinder there is no need to bleed the brakes again, correct?
    2. Adjusting the bolt out a full turn, what exactly is this accomplishing? Is it just allowing the brakes to engage sooner? If you adjust it too far what is the consiquence?
    3. When you seperate the cylinder from the booster and it looses the air pressure, do you just have to pump the brake pedal when done to build it back up?

    Sorry for all the questions but I'm an M.E. and like details. Thanks.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbubba View Post
    Looking at doing this this weekend but have a few questions first.
    1. Since all of the oil lines stay connected to the master cylinder there is no need to bleed the brakes again, correct?
    2. Adjusting the bolt out a full turn, what exactly is this accomplishing? Is it just allowing the brakes to engage sooner? If you adjust it too far what is the consiquence?
    3. When you seperate the cylinder from the booster and it looses the air pressure, do you just have to pump the brake pedal when done to build it back up?

    Sorry for all the questions but I'm an M.E. and like details. Thanks.
    Answers:
    1. No lines come off so no need to bleed brakes.
    2. Yes adjusting bolt out further allows pedal to engage quicker. Too far and the brakes will drag so just back off some as explained in the "how to" thread.
    3. No need to pump up pedal. The air pressure you refer to is 'vacuum' that will be created the next time you start up your engine again.

    Brief and blunt but hope this helps.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cayman150 View Post
    Answers:
    1. No lines come off so no need to bleed brakes.
    2. Yes adjusting bolt out further allows pedal to engage quicker. Too far and the brakes will drag so just back off some as explained in the "how to" thread.
    3. No need to pump up pedal. The air pressure you refer to is 'vacuum' that will be created the next time you start up your engine again.

    Brief and blunt but hope this helps.
    Gotcha. Answers all my questions. Will try it this weekend.

    Thanks!

  14. #29
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    Well, I found out something interesting today. I was looking to attempt the process listed at the beginning of this thread today. I was still not sure if this process was going to fix my problem. The issue I was having was when I would apply the brakes, I could still feel my pedal continue to move to the floor the longer I sat there. It seemed like I had a vacuum leak. I already had the booster and master cylinder replaced about three weeks ago and still didn't feel right. So today before I started to remove the cylinder I checked the the hose that led from the booster to the intake. I found that I could slide the hose off because the clamp was behind the ribbed section of the fitting on the intake, not in front. I do not know if this is enough to lose pressure. I moved the clamp to where it is supposed to be and now they feel like they should. So I guess it pays to check everything.

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