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Thread: Thinking of lift and tires...

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    No more blower...
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    Thinking of lift and tires...

    Well I've done some shopping and found kits galore to lift the F-250. I guess I just don't know enough and thought maybe somebody on here with some experience could let me know.

    I want to go no bigger than 7" with 37" tires.

    I've seen the pro-comp lifts (front springs, rear leafs, and shocks) with single resevoir shock for around $2000. What else should/need you get to do it right?

    What about wheels. I've seen some wheels that look narrow or just tucked in under the fenders. I want to go with some 22's. Anybody know of proper backspacing and width to go with? I love the look of Snake's truck.

    thanks for any insight.

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    Slowest 03 HD n the WORLD
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    see i never understood why lift a truck to the sky when you dont off road it...

    now if you do take it off road and beat it up then hey ya do it...

    is your truck a 4wd?

    if not why not lower it down some??

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    yeah...its 4x4. I thought all Harley Super Duties were?

    I never understood why people put 30" rims on there '85 Cutlass....oh that's right...different people have different taste.

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    World's Fastest Street HD
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    all HD superduties are 4x4

    and lifting it looks badazz!

    its like saying why put 24" rims on a high hp truck, its taking 1 step forward and 2 steps backwards doh!

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    You can put 37's on these:

    http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/2004-20...ires-sale.html

    I'll make you a great deal on them.

    Thanks,
    Brent

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    Quote Originally Posted by DallasGT01 View Post
    see i never understood why lift a truck to the sky when you dont off road it...

    now if you do take it off road and beat it up then hey ya do it...

    is your truck a 4wd?

    if not why not lower it down some??

    I guess you could also ask why spend tens of thousands of dollars modifying your daily driver and then buy a beater vehicle because your other ride is "too nice/gets too poor fuel economy/etc." You bought it because you loved it, you dumped a bunch of money into it to make it "yours" and to turn heads, and end up driving something you hate to keep the wear and tear off of your nice vehicle.

    Why would you spend so much money to get a better quarter mile time when the national speed limit is 70 mph?

    Why mod your motor if it voids your warranty?

    Why lower your vehicle if you're not racing in the SCCA/IMSA?




    Years ago, I had another lifted truck that was also my daily driver and I four wheeled it every chance I could. After breaking driveshafts and u-joints, getting it stuck so bad that we had to wait for the ground to dry up to recover it, putting a nice dent in the tailgate after a tow strap broke, and ripping off the side steps in a mud hole, I realized that I spent a lot of time bumming rides while my truck was getting repaired and a lot of money for the aforementioned repairs. Money I could have spent on other mods.

    And that was a $10k truck, not a $50k truck.

    I'd much rather have someone walk up and say "Nice truck" than "How'd you do that?"

    --Snake
    Last edited by Snake; 04-06-2008 at 03:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    37's and 7" of lift is not enough and you will probably rub. Go 8" and you will be much happier.

    Try to buy the best components possible for what you want to do. There are essential parts to a lift, but they don't have to all be purchased as a kit or from the same manufacturer.

    Do a 4-link from the get-go...radius arm drop kits are a pita and don't allow for alot of caster flexibility. This is a very sensitive item on the 05+. Your truck will ride like crap if you do not address this problem correctly.

    Here are som recommendations:

    DR/Icon 5" rear springs
    DR/Icon / Rize basic box kit
    Full Traction 4-link / Rize 4-link
    Fox or King coilovers (allows felexibility in going higher later)
    Fox or King 2.5 rear shocks
    Rize coilover conversion
    DR/Icon adjustable trac bar
    Rize or Farmboy Fabrications traction bars (to eliminate wheel hop/axel wrap)
    Gears to turn those big tires
    One up Offroad carrier bearing drop bracket / screw the shims and vibrations

    to do all of the things you are wanting to do correctly, you are looking at well over $8000, and proabably more like $11000 when it is all said and done. Lifting an SD is not cheap, but it is more expensive to do it twice because you cut corners.

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    Sumo Blue
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    Well said Mike.....

    --Snake

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2manytrucks View Post
    37's and 7" of lift is not enough and you will probably rub. Go 8" and you will be much happier.
    I have a 6" lift with 37's and I don't rub at all. I will say however after having my truck lifted for a year, I wish I would have lifted it 8.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2manytrucks View Post
    37's and 7" of lift is not enough and you will probably rub. Go 8" and you will be much happier.

    Try to buy the best components possible for what you want to do. There are essential parts to a lift, but they don't have to all be purchased as a kit or from the same manufacturer.

    Do a 4-link from the get-go...radius arm drop kits are a pita and don't allow for alot of caster flexibility. This is a very sensitive item on the 05+. Your truck will ride like crap if you do not address this problem correctly.

    Here are som recommendations:

    DR/Icon 5" rear springs
    DR/Icon / Rize basic box kit
    Full Traction 4-link / Rize 4-link
    Fox or King coilovers (allows felexibility in going higher later)
    Fox or King 2.5 rear shocks
    Rize coilover conversion
    DR/Icon adjustable trac bar
    Rize or Farmboy Fabrications traction bars (to eliminate wheel hop/axel wrap)
    Gears to turn those big tires
    One up Offroad carrier bearing drop bracket / screw the shims and vibrations

    to do all of the things you are wanting to do correctly, you are looking at well over $8000, and proabably more like $11000 when it is all said and done. Lifting an SD is not cheap, but it is more expensive to do it twice because you cut corners.
    I'm going to have to get a second job...

    The coilovers would just be for flexibility down the road. If I went with the 2.5" shocks and springs, it would be fine, right. If I went with 8", I'm not going any higher down the road...

    What exactly is the difference between a radius arm lift and 4 link?

    thanks a lot for the insight guys

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    That's what we are here for....I will let someone else answer the question though as I have no freakin clue!

  12. #12
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    From the factory, Ford uses a radius arm as a means of controlling suspension travel. It typically has three points of contact (one on the frame and two on the axle). A four link replaces the factory radius arm with 2 arms and has four connection points. Each "arm" connects to the frame and to the axle. So 2 points of contact for each arm x 2 arms = 4, hence the 4-link name. Generally speaking, 4 link suspensions provide more wheel travel and better ride quality.

    --Snake

  13. #13
    Man this is expensive!!!
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    and allows you to center the wheel in the wheel well by adjusting the heim joints vs having the front axel drawn in closer to the fender closest to the cab by a radius arm drop kit.

    trust me, put a 4 link at the top of the list.

    here is an 08 Harley with a radius arm drop
    TruckToyz Performance Image Viewer

    here is another Harley with the 4-link (4 silver bars under the front of the truck)
    TruckToyz Performance Image Viewer
    Last edited by 2manytrucks; 04-07-2008 at 05:26 PM.

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