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Thread: How-To convert your front passenger seat to power.

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    How-To convert your front passenger seat to power.

    What you'll need for this project:

    Front Passenger Seat from a 98-02 Lincoln Navigator. (be sure to get at least 6" of the wiring harness that comes up through the carpet, cause our wiring harness is different)

    The only tip that I can give to you all (that I haven't already) is when you are removing or installing the plastic side panel that you take out the two screws that hold in the lumbar adjustment mechanism (you will have to pull off the lumbar knob to view the screws) this makes sliding the cover on and off alot easier.

    Feel free to send me a PM if anyone needs help with this conversion.

    The rest of the information can be found here:
    http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/2000-20...aser-pics.html

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    Thanks!

    Really appreciate the information! I am now in the market for the pieces from a Navigator. Thanks Bart!

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    Navigator, excursion or f-250/350 will have the appropriate power passenger seat track. The reason I suggested navigator is since they are older you'll be able to get a better deal on the seat in a salvage yard.
    Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk.

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    Will the 08 09 10 FORD F250/F350 SUPER DUTY CREW CAB RIGHT PASS FRONT POWER SEAT TRACK work? Just saw one on E-bay...
    Thanks,
    Bart

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    How-To convert your front passenger seat to power.

    ^ I'm not sure about the 08 and up seat tracks, I think they might be different. Should be enough 03-07 250/350 lariats to supply us for a while.

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    Got one off E-bay! Need link for pictures

    I just purchased a age/model appropriate power passenger rack :-) What happen to the old link that showed all of the pictures? I can't seem to find it now... I really want to view the pictures/thread again before I go to install it.
    I picked up the black trim piece too at my local Ford dealer for $70.
    Thanks for all the ideas and expertise,
    Bart

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    Click on the link in post #1. I can see the pics in the link to the other thread fine.

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    How-To convert your front passenger seat to power.

    Pictures show up for me as well

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    I feel like this thread needs some pics so I'll add mine as I work on this.

    Pulled my passenger seat out and threw the power navigator track in to test fitment and get an idea of what will need to be done to wire it.

    Note: The seat track I found in local junkyard had only power, not heat.

    -Tested with voltmeter to find power and ground (red and black wires on my trucks stock vehicle side connector, nice).
    -The power seat track only requires 2 wires to go into it to function, +12v power and ground.
    -I Added T-tap's to the factory vehicle harness of my truck to connect to the navigator vehicle side harness which will plug into the power track harness, retaining the stock harley vehicle connector to plug into the stock seat heater.



    So for tonight I verified the seat track fully operates with a temp jumper wire, then brought my passenger seat inside, stripped off the manual slider and stock side cover, stripped the grey side cover off the power seat track.

    Tomorrow I'll clean and paint/dye the grey seat cover to black with some black interior vinyl dye/paint. Then assemble the seat.

    IDK what I'm going to do about the seat heater button yet, probably just have it secured with a zip-tie and hanging out the side of the seat by the lumbar knob or something. Eventually I'll find a factory power/heated side panel but I can live with this for now.

    edit to add: I am quite disapointed with how crappy the power seat track looks compared to the stock one. The manual seat slider and brackets I removed are all nice and clean, with the brackets themselves being powder coated black...this power track looks like ****. I'll be simple green cleaning what I can, grease up the track slider areas, then rattle can the brackets that may be visible with black primer followed by enamel black before installing.
    2002 DSG HD #09617 NHTOC Truck of the month November 2012
    Ported eaton/plenum/tb, 6lb lower, SCT BA-2600 MAF, OBX longtubes, JLP intake, FTVB, L-spec bilsteins, Hotchkis TVS, 22" replicas. Tuned by Ray McClelland of FTK

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    Track painted up and swapped onto the seat.

    Got it in the truck this morning and everything looks and works right

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    Did my link in the first post not take you to the pictures in the how to?

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    iHarley
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    Joedpl - didn't work for me, something about if you are here, its a bad link.

    Tom

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    #8658, 6/3/02
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    I'll look into the link problem.

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    iHarley
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    Please consider the electrical requirements for this upgrade carefully!

    CAUTION, (possibly a WARNING)

    Please consider the electrical requirements for this upgrade carefully!

    DO NOT use the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Circuit# 1153, Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time, 14 Gauge, Fuse F1.118, 30Amp, Pin# 3 in connection C311 to power the power seat motors / transmission. Refer to your Electrical Shop Manual. Your circuit numbers and fuse locations maybe different, those I’ve listed are for a 2003 Harley F150.

    Just because the wire is hot at all times, does NOT make it a safe connection!!!

    The RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire, heated seat function circuit, Hot at all time, for driver and passenger, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box) and IS NOT - IS NOT - IS NOT designed to carry the additional current of a power seat! That is what you are doing, if simply connecting to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire. Adding an addition 30Amp device to a circuit designed for only 30Amp total for now 60Amp possible!! While connecting your passenger seat to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time may work, if overloaded with seat heater(s) on and full draw on the motors, at minimum, if you are lucky, you will just blow the fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box). OR you could damage the expensive heated seat control module, OR even possibly cause a FIRE.

    The Drivers Power seat circuit, Hot at all time, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.112 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box).

    EACH power seat regardless of the vehicle REQUIRES a separate safety protected 30Amp fuse! Please refer to wiring information for the vehicle you acquired for your power seat track.

    If you don’t have a shop manual, simply refer to your vehicles Owner’s Manual. Your fuse number locations maybe different, but the circuit requirements are the same.

    The correct and safest way to wire this upgrade, AND the way it’s done by the OEM of your motorized seat track is to install a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger seat; there are several “Not Used” positions available. The power seat only requires one Hot at all time, 14 gauge wire, with a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse and a ground - It really doesn’t get any easier.

    Please do not be concerned about heat vs non-heated power seat track for this upgrade, it does not make any difference and only confuses a very simple upgrade with parts which were designed for other vehicle features you don’t have, ie power lumbar, heated rear seats, cooling (climate control), etc. Don’t fret about getting the wiring harness from the donor vehicle, you don’t need it! Your connector uses Ford Wedgelock Pin Type Terminals, which are readily available, use the vacant position in your current connector housing for a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp for the power seat. KISS - save yourself some money and time. Have more options looking for your passenger power track, and don’t buy hard to find and sometimes expensive OEM harnesses / connectors / heat controllers etc!

    If you have a heated passenger now, fine - leave it alone! It was installed by Ford and works safely. Simply add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground. If you don’t have a heated passenger seat now, fine! - Just add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground.

    This is a great upgrade and addition to the vehicle, done properly.
    Many thanks to all to this “How to”
    Last edited by iHarley; 07-27-2014 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Make post easier for some

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    Quote Originally Posted by iHarley View Post
    CAUTION, (possibly a WARNING)

    Please consider the electrical requirements for this upgrade carefully!

    DO NOT use the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Circuit# 1153, Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time, 14 Gauge, Fuse F1.118, 30Amp, Pin# 3 in connection C311 to power the power seat motors / transmission. Refer to your Electrical Shop Manual. Your circuit numbers and fuse locations maybe different, those I’ve listed are for a 2003 Harley F150.

    Just because the wire is hot at all times, does NOT make it a safe connection!!!

    The RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire, heated seat function circuit, Hot at all time, for driver and passenger, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box) and IS NOT - IS NOT - IS NOT designed to carry the additional current of a power seat! That is what you are doing, if simply connecting to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire. Adding an addition 30Amp device to a circuit designed for only 30Amp total for now 60Amp possible!! While connecting your passenger seat to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time may work, if overloaded with seat heater(s) on and full draw on the motors, at minimum, if you are lucky, you will just blow the fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box). OR you could damage the expensive heated seat control module, OR even possibly cause a FIRE.

    The Drivers Power seat circuit, Hot at all time, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.112 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box).

    EACH power seat regardless of the vehicle REQUIRES a separate safety protected 30Amp fuse! Please refer to wiring information for the vehicle you acquired for your power seat track.

    If you don’t have a shop manual, simply refer to your vehicles Owner’s Manual. Your fuse number locations maybe different, but the circuit requirements are the same.

    The correct and safest way to wire this upgrade, AND the way it’s done by the OEM of your motorized seat track is to install a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger seat; there are several “Not Used” positions available. The power seat only requires one Hot at all time, 14 gauge wire, with a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse and a ground - It really doesn’t get any easier.

    Please do not be concerned about heat vs non-heated power seat track for this upgrade, it does not make any difference and only confuses a very simple upgrade with parts which were designed for other vehicle features you don’t have, ie power lumbar, heated rear seats, cooling (climate control), etc. Don’t fret about getting the wiring harness from the donor vehicle, you don’t need it! Your connector uses Ford Wedgelock Pin Type Terminals, which are readily available, use the vacant position in your current connector housing for a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp for the power seat. KISS - save yourself some money and time. Have more options looking for your passenger power track, and don’t buy hard to find and sometimes expensive OEM harnesses / connectors / heat controllers etc!

    If you have a heated passenger now, fine - leave it alone! It was installed by Ford and works safely. Simply add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground. If you don’t have a heated passenger seat now, fine! - Just add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground.

    This is a great upgrade and addition to the vehicle, done properly.
    Many thanks to all to this “How to”
    Good point. When I did mine I used a cheap amp distribution block with dual fuses. I cut the red/blk wire on the drivers side and put the end coming from the fuse box into the in. Then I put the other cut end in one of the fused outs and plugged it back into the drivers seat. I ran a length of wire the same gauge as the red/blk wire from the other fused out over to the pass. side and plugged the connector into that seat. I know this isn't really ideal, but I feel better knowing there is a fuse there also. Both of those fuses are 30 amp also. Maybe I should put smaller amp fuses in there so they would pop there?

    Another thing to ponder, in order for what you are describing to happen. You would have to be running both drivers and passenger heaters at the same time. Which I have done but my truck was equipped from factory with both. Adding the power passenger seat again you would have to be running both seats at the same time. The odds of that happening are pretty slim if you ask me. Unless you get some idiot that plays with the seat settings constantly. Which a quick backhand will fix.

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