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Thread: How-To convert your front passenger seat to power.

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by iHarley View Post
    CAUTION, (possibly a WARNING)

    Please consider the electrical requirements for this upgrade carefully!

    DO NOT use the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Circuit# 1153, Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time, 14 Gauge, Fuse F1.118, 30Amp, Pin# 3 in connection C311 to power the power seat motors / transmission. Refer to your Electrical Shop Manual. Your circuit numbers and fuse locations maybe different, those Iíve listed are for a 2003 Harley F150.

    Just because the wire is hot at all times, does NOT make it a safe connection!!!

    The RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire, heated seat function circuit, Hot at all time, for driver and passenger, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box) and IS NOT - IS NOT - IS NOT designed to carry the additional current of a power seat! That is what you are doing, if simply connecting to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire. Adding an addition 30Amp device to a circuit designed for only 30Amp total for now 60Amp possible!! While connecting your passenger seat to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time may work, if overloaded with seat heater(s) on and full draw on the motors, at minimum, if you are lucky, you will just blow the fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box). OR you could damage the expensive heated seat control module, OR even possibly cause a FIRE.

    The Drivers Power seat circuit, Hot at all time, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.112 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box).

    EACH power seat regardless of the vehicle REQUIRES a separate safety protected 30Amp fuse! Please refer to wiring information for the vehicle you acquired for your power seat track.

    If you donít have a shop manual, simply refer to your vehicles Ownerís Manual. Your fuse number locations maybe different, but the circuit requirements are the same.

    The correct and safest way to wire this upgrade, AND the way itís done by the OEM of your motorized seat track is to install a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger seat; there are several ďNot UsedĒ positions available. The power seat only requires one Hot at all time, 14 gauge wire, with a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse and a ground - It really doesnít get any easier.

    Please do not be concerned about heat vs non-heated power seat track for this upgrade, it does not make any difference and only confuses a very simple upgrade with parts which were designed for other vehicle features you donít have, ie power lumbar, heated rear seats, cooling (climate control), etc. Donít fret about getting the wiring harness from the donor vehicle, you donít need it! Your connector uses Ford Wedgelock Pin Type Terminals, which are readily available, use the vacant position in your current connector housing for a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp for the power seat. KISS - save yourself some money and time. Have more options looking for your passenger power track, and donít buy hard to find and sometimes expensive OEM harnesses / connectors / heat controllers etc!

    If you have a heated passenger now, fine - leave it alone! It was installed by Ford and works safely. Simply add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground. If you donít have a heated passenger seat now, fine! - Just add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground.

    This is a great upgrade and addition to the vehicle, done properly.
    Many thanks to all to this ďHow toĒ
    Good point. When I did mine I used a cheap amp distribution block with dual fuses. I cut the red/blk wire on the drivers side and put the end coming from the fuse box into the in. Then I put the other cut end in one of the fused outs and plugged it back into the drivers seat. I ran a length of wire the same gauge as the red/blk wire from the other fused out over to the pass. side and plugged the connector into that seat. I know this isn't really ideal, but I feel better knowing there is a fuse there also. Both of those fuses are 30 amp also. Maybe I should put smaller amp fuses in there so they would pop there?

    Another thing to ponder, in order for what you are describing to happen. You would have to be running both drivers and passenger heaters at the same time. Which I have done but my truck was equipped from factory with both. Adding the power passenger seat again you would have to be running both seats at the same time. The odds of that happening are pretty slim if you ask me. Unless you get some idiot that plays with the seat settings constantly. Which a quick backhand will fix.

  2. #17
    iHarley
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    trp103

    Heee, heee "quick backhand will fix" - nice

    Good you realized the current requirement, others, I think? Did not and really need to redo their wiring.

  3. #18
    iHarley
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    In case you want to do a really thorough cleaning, painting and lubrication of the 10+ year old power seat track, here is a document on how to disassemble the track assembly. This is also good to save if you need to replace the motor / transmission assembly.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #19
    iHarley
    Name: iHarley

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    My six-way passenger seat is complete, got a smoking deal on a 01 Navigator track (free). I completely disassembled the track, cleaned, painted and re-lubed. I sprung for a new switch assembly and side shield. Ran power to the seat from an unused position in the Battery Junction Box (BJB), F1.114 with Jcase 30Amp fuse, using 14 gauge SXL wire (approved for high temperature areas such as engine compartments) in corrugated loom (spec for M-2170 and ASTM D4066). I used the open position in the existing connector for the new power circuit and spliced into the 14 gauge existing ground to complete. Finally I updated the owner’s manual fuse directory to reflect the added item.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by iHarley View Post
    CAUTION, (possibly a WARNING)

    Please consider the electrical requirements for this upgrade carefully!

    DO NOT use the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Circuit# 1153, Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time, 14 Gauge, Fuse F1.118, 30Amp, Pin# 3 in connection C311 to power the power seat motors / transmission. Refer to your Electrical Shop Manual. Your circuit numbers and fuse locations maybe different, those Iíve listed are for a 2003 Harley F150.

    Just because the wire is hot at all times, does NOT make it a safe connection!!!

    The RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire, heated seat function circuit, Hot at all time, for driver and passenger, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box) and IS NOT - IS NOT - IS NOT designed to carry the additional current of a power seat! That is what you are doing, if simply connecting to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip) wire. Adding an addition 30Amp device to a circuit designed for only 30Amp total for now 60Amp possible!! While connecting your passenger seat to the RD/BK (Red w/ Black Strip), Driver and passenger heated seat high amp circuit, Hot at all time may work, if overloaded with seat heater(s) on and full draw on the motors, at minimum, if you are lucky, you will just blow the fuse, F1.118 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box). OR you could damage the expensive heated seat control module, OR even possibly cause a FIRE.

    The Drivers Power seat circuit, Hot at all time, is safety protected by a 30Amp fuse, F1.112 in the BFB (Battery Fuse Box).

    EACH power seat regardless of the vehicle REQUIRES a separate safety protected 30Amp fuse! Please refer to wiring information for the vehicle you acquired for your power seat track.

    If you donít have a shop manual, simply refer to your vehicles Ownerís Manual. Your fuse number locations maybe different, but the circuit requirements are the same.

    The correct and safest way to wire this upgrade, AND the way itís done by the OEM of your motorized seat track is to install a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger seat; there are several ďNot UsedĒ positions available. The power seat only requires one Hot at all time, 14 gauge wire, with a separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse and a ground - It really doesnít get any easier.

    Please do not be concerned about heat vs non-heated power seat track for this upgrade, it does not make any difference and only confuses a very simple upgrade with parts which were designed for other vehicle features you donít have, ie power lumbar, heated rear seats, cooling (climate control), etc. Donít fret about getting the wiring harness from the donor vehicle, you donít need it! Your connector uses Ford Wedgelock Pin Type Terminals, which are readily available, use the vacant position in your current connector housing for a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp for the power seat. KISS - save yourself some money and time. Have more options looking for your passenger power track, and donít buy hard to find and sometimes expensive OEM harnesses / connectors / heat controllers etc!

    If you have a heated passenger now, fine - leave it alone! It was installed by Ford and works safely. Simply add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground. If you donít have a heated passenger seat now, fine! - Just add a new separate safety protected by a 30Amp fuse for the passenger power seat and a ground.

    This is a great upgrade and addition to the vehicle, done properly.
    Many thanks to all to this ďHow toĒ
    In the 8 years since Iíve done this mod, i havenít had a problem but thanks for the write up. The seat rarely moves so the odds of overloading the circuit are slim in my case.


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