02 HD replacement parts needed! Plus drop

[HD4595]

Ok besides my day to day engine issues I am working on and talking about in other threads I think I would like to get into the suspension a bit.

I think it is time to replace the Control Arms, bushings, link rods, ball joints, etc. Everything up front.

How many of you have done this. Did you go back with OE components?

As for my drop. I am in the process of purchasing my Detroit 22's so I want to lower the truck now as well. I have Belltech 2" Shackles but now I think I want to add Belltech Spindles up front and 2.5" drop leafs out back.

If I do get the spindles do I need to change the coils to the Ruslow 1100 or should I just stick with the spindles only? I do not know much about suspension kits for our trucks and or clearance issues.

I am going to run HPS 1000 out back and L-spec Bilsteins up front so I think.

Any help is appreciated and any advise will be noted and thought thru completely.

TIA

[Harley#356]

ruslow 1100 coils are stiff (I run 1000's in Jekyll). and they're 1.5" drop themselves, so with the spindle that'd be a 3.5" front drop. Way too low for any decent tire. I'd just stick with the spindles themselves.

Why not run the same bilsteins all around?

[HD4595]

Thanks.

I was thinking spindles only up front as well. I have heard the HPS1000 up front are bouncy but I myself was thinking about just getting the L specs all around.

Have not done enough research on the difference or figured out my true needs yet.

['02 H-D #677]

What Josh said ^^^ regarding springs/spindles. If you are installing 22" then just stay with spindles only with Bilstiens.

As far as control arms, ball joints, etc ... since the front-end suspension only needs to be redone once in a long while ... just spend a few bucks more for the very best parts you can get and do it right/correct one time only! The very best control arms and ball joints on the planet are XRF ... better than Spicer or Moog. Definitely DO NOT use OE! The XRF upper CA's (with ball joint) are $80; the lower ball joints are $21. They come with all urethane bushings. Can only get them in the US from their US HQ in MI. Also, as long as you're going to be doing it, may as well install ES or Prothane urethane bushings on the lower CA's and install new ES sway bar end-links since you are lowering with the spindles. Further, make sure to install cam bolts and clunk washers if not already done.

Unfortunately, Hotchkis no longer makes their rear leafs so the only real solution available for a DD dropped in the rear is Belltech leafs and shackles. The leafs with the shackles set on 1" hole will realize right at 4" in the rear. Makes for a very nice stance with 22's; definitely improves handling, and still provides acceptable ride (Belltech leafs are stiff) and load capacity, if needed. Don't try and drop the rear by simply removing a leaf from the stack! Doing so changes the spring-rate and really makes for "squishy/unresponsive" handling. For rear drops, make sure to measure/identify the pinion angle and adjust/correct accordingly for your particular drop. Also, make sure to install shock extenders at that kind of rear drop.

[HD4595]

Thanks and well noted. I found a set of Belltech leafs for a steal. There is a set of Belltech spindles available for half the cost of new here locally so I will grab them up if someone hasn't beat me to them.

Already have the shackles on since new but removed my Hellwig sway bar just a few weeks ago. Want to put the Hotchkis bars on and figured while I was re-doing front / rear sway bars I might as well upgrade the other components since the truck is an 02 and riding on the OE gear.

[Harley#356]

Thanks.

I was thinking spindles only up front as well. I have heard the HPS1000 up front are bouncy but I myself was thinking about just getting the L specs all around.

Have not done enough research on the difference or figured out my true needs yet.

the only way shocks are going to provide a bouncy ride is if they're worn out or blown like the crappy stock shocks. Bilsteins are going to provide a firmer stiffer ride. I'm not sure where the hps1000's lie on stiffness, but L spec bilsteins are a bit stiffer than screw spec bilsteins. The L specs are still a far cry from a "STIFF" ride, but it is a nice bit firmer and more stable on the highway than stockers. So I wouldn't worry about a bouncy ride with stiffer shocks. Stock ones when you hit bumps gives that back and forth see-saw motion. Bilsteins the truck will bounce off the bump and settle right out and not waver back and forth like stockers.

Already have the shackles on since new but removed my Hellwig sway bar just a few weeks ago. Want to put the Hotchkis bars on and figured while I was re-doing front / rear sway bars I might as well upgrade the other components since the truck is an 02 and riding on the OE gear.

fyi, the hellwig bars are a stiffer bar than the hotchkis.

In order of handling improvements....
-Stock
-Stock w/ L rear sway
-Hotchkis
-Hellwig

[HD4595]

Its was a PITA to install the Hellwig the first time many years ago when LFP had them GB on them. I remember it took me like 3 hours to get the damn thing on.

Well after years of driving, the bushing were all worn out. I was going to just get some energy suspension bushings to put in place but then started looking at Hotchkis products.

Mark no longer is a vendor for Hellwig as I already checked with him on replacement bushings. Any idea which ones will work from Energy Suspension?

Should I change out my front stock bar? TIA

[Harley#356]

you should be able to measure the diameter of the bar and order universal energy suspension ones in that size. I've had my bar on for years since probably that same GB and the bushings were all still fine when I swapped it onto Jekyll last fall.

Anyway, I wouldn't really bother with the front bar unless you're really looking to make a corner carver. The front bar is already a heavy duty bar over a regular f150.

[2manytrucks]

Go with Moog on the ball joints, tie rods and such. Same quality as OEM but greaseable.

[HD4595]

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