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Thread: Help ...

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Name: James

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    Jun 2011
    Ofallon, MO
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    Unhappy Help ...

    I left the hood up on my 02 F150 Supercab w/ supercharger, during a night of rain. Went for a drive this morning and it spits and sputters. Nothing obvious under the hood ... any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Name: Kevin

    Blind's Avatar
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    Oct 2009
    Hella NorCal
    Liked 63 Times in 58 Posts
    Pull and clean out / add dialectric grease to the spark plugs, probably got water in the wells.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while pooping
    2002 DSG HD #09617 NHTOC Truck of the month November 2012
    Ported eaton/plenum/tb, 6lb lower, SCT BA-2600 MAF, OBX longtubes, JLP intake, FTVB, L-spec bilsteins, Hotchkis TVS, 22" replicas. Tuned by Ray McClelland of FTK

  3. #3
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

    cayman150's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
    Liked 51 Times in 44 Posts

    Thumbs up

    Welcome to NHTOC!

    And yes as Blind stated, there is probably moisture in the spark plug wells causing the cops to short out.

    In the "How To" section you can find a lot of useful info on these trucks.

    Here is an excerpt for changing the plugs but all you have to do is pull the cops off and blow out the recessed well with compressed air and maybe stuff a rag down in there and wipe it out dry.

    pull battery negative just to be sure...

    get a 1/4" 7mm swivel socket and about 18" in total extensions. Get a universal joint for you spark plug socket (make sure it has the rubber insert to hold the plug in place). You'll need a short extension on the plug socket between the universal and the socket. You'll then need about 18" or so of exentions to make it easy to reach back there... You also MUST have one of those long thing magnet tools that is like a long car antenna.

    ok, you have the tools.

    there is NO need to remove fuel rails, TB, etc.

    Reach down and unplug each coilpack. There is a small squeeze clip on bottom... pull all eight.

    Also, unplug the gray injector plugs on each size as they are in the way of the 7mm coil pack screws. Those must be squeezed from the sides to be removed. You can also pull the small twin vacuum lines on the driver side to make it easier to reach, but not necessary...

    Now, take the 7mm swivel assembly and loosen each coil pack screw. Just leave it in the hole once loose. Loosen all eight right then. *Use your magnet* to remove them from the vehicle. The driver and passenger side rears have a pretty nasy angle, but the swivel socket will reach just fine.

    Next, pull all 8 coil packs out of their sockets. The front driverside will have to come forward of the Intake tube...

    Now use the spark plug socket to remove all 8 at once. The passenger side rear will be tough to get the socket well seated so you will have to "play" with it, but that is the only one that will be tough.

    Once you have out all 8, put your new plugs in the socket one at a time and lower them gently into the sockets without banging the tip and therefore closing the gap.

    Tighten each plug until snug and then give it maybe 1/16th to tighten. If you go too tight, you'll strip it. Too loose and you blow a plug later...

    slip all coilpacks back on. Hand insert 6 of 8 coil pack screws. The rear two on the driver side will need to be inserted using the magnet. I would advise, if you have thin hands like I do, to try to hand tighten these two once seated so you don't cross thread them. Snug these down with the socket and give them a small turn. They strip easy.

    Plug injectors and coil packs back in. Make sure you didn't knock vacuum lines loose on drivers side (or reconnect if you intentionally removed them)...

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

  4. #4
    Sport90's #1
    Name: Matthew

    oki916's Avatar
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    Nov 2007
    Tallahassee, Florida
    Liked 23 Times in 14 Posts
    Welcome to the got some good advice already on checking to see if that is the problem. Hope all is well

    Quote Originally Posted by SonicHD View Post
    ... But it SCREAMS like a raped monkey at wot

  5. #5
    Registered User

    Rockin Rod's Avatar
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    Oct 2004
    Pilot Hill, Ca.
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    Welcome, Hope all goes well.

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Name: Trey

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    Jan 2014
    Mobile Alabama
    Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    My heater core messed up and when I took off the hoses some fluid got onto my coil packs. I pulled them out blew everything off and used dielectric grease. The truck still runs like crap. Im just going to get new plugs and boots since im just now reaching 127xxx.. and if that doesnt help I guess ill be buying some new cop's

  7. #7
    Registered User
    Name: Byron

    GRANTBP's Avatar
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    Nov 2008
    Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts

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