Did the L shock swap

[Blind]

I'm a big fan of the hotchkis bars, used lightning bilsteins (10k miles used, $80 shipped for all 4), JLP 2-3-4" rear drop shackles, and belltech rear shock extenders on my truck, also had to trim down the rear bump stops to give more travel.

The only thing I would like to change, is maybe try the super crew spec bilsteins and add airbags to the rear to get a softer ride. It rides great, has barely any body lean, which is amazing for the size, but it's a bit harsh over big bumps or uneven driveway entrances mainly because of the beefy swaybars but I think softer shocks with higher spring rate (from preloaded air bags in the rear) would help with that.


Typos from my iPhone using Tapatalk while po0ping.

[starline]

I just installed the rear Hellwig sway bar and love it. Made a huge difference. Cayman, is there any welding involved for installing a pan hard bar? Also, what vendor sells them?

[cayman150]

I don't recall any welding when I installed my D*M*R pan hard bar. It came with a bracket that follows a portion of the bolt pattern of the diff cover and the other end bolted up too.

D*M*R has been banned on here but I think it was patterend off another vendors model which I don't remember.
Maybe some else will know after this jog's their memory.

Here is a picture similar to what mine looks like from another members truck.

[Harley#356]

the original panhard was by Ruslow, and a better design. D*M*R duplicated it and made the mounting point weaker, then trash talked the original after using it to copy from.

[cayman150]

My D*M*R pan hard bar has been on for over 5 years now and hasn't broke even with the autocrossing I do.

[TX Harley Guy]

Man, I bought my Ford SVT rear sway bar kit for around 130 shippped a long time ago, I did a search and came up empty, guess those are long gone.
http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/2000-20...s-special.html

[m5james]

You did a GB and are comparing a different brand. What are the specs of the Ford Racing vs Hellwig...diameter, solid vs hollow, poly vs rubber bushings, etc.

[TX Harley Guy]

Whoa, don't want to start a war here, just stating there WAS a Ford Racing kit available at a reasonable price, some said they had the bar and no hardware, you can search the Lightning sway bar threads and find other companies hardware will work just fine. Just trying to help others find things that will work for them. Mine works great, even with the urathane bushings I put in a few years ago.....

[harleyhank]

I got all my hardware from Mike at Riverside Ford.When I bought the L bar used,the fella forgot to tell me BAR only. Some deals are fair and some...leave a little to be desired. Live and learn LOL.

[TMOY2000]

if your going to lower the truck get that done first as the links will all need to be changed to fit or modded (cut down and welded back together). Also, what type of use or ride are your wanting to achieve?
Lowering these trucks the basic two inches has been one of the best changes I know of for ride quality, adding the L-shocks tightens the ride up alot yet some folks don't like that style of mod.
Lowering the truck the two inches one can use shock extenders on the rear to allow the shocks to fit better. The front shocks, once changed over to the "L" version will ride one inch out of spec but that works fine, remember these trucks (H/D and Lightning) have 1 inch shorter and slightly tighter front and rear factory springs, so when ordering ANY shocks this must be taken into consideration.
the vehicle weight is also an issue. The 4 whole door trucks (2002-2003) do weigh in much heavier than the Lightning, so the ride will be totally different than a Lightning truck. Some who carry things around (coolers to tool boxes, etc) seem to think the ride greatly improves with the addition of 3-400 lbs. in the rear of the bed. I know my truck is a 2000 model super cab, and it splits the weight between the Lightning and the 4-door trucks, weighing about 450 more than the lightning and 425 less than the 4 door trucks. These 21000 models did come factory with both the "L" spec springs and shocks, but the 4 door trucks came with the lower springs and regular 4 door truck shooks factory, and it is a big difference in ride. Some like it, some don't as always.
My truck, lowered 4 in front (cut spring at first now Hotchkiss 2inLtruck drop spec and bell tech spindles) and the rear has the hanger/shackle drop of 4 inches. I use the 2 inch shock extender (man I doubt anyone could even get those L shocks to bolt on without that on this 4 inch drop, way way out of factory range of motion for these shocks!) and just the factory bilstein "L" shocks on front also.
I installed an "L" truck rear sway bar, but had to go once again on the hunt for shorter links due to the drop. I then wished I'd just went straight to the wrecking yard instead of buying one as there are so many kinds available factory on the gators, 23/4 ton and 1 tom trucks which all fit right on and one can choose from the different bar diameters for ride quality. One day I may go back and pick up a few just to experiment, and also I may change the front sway bar, but for now it's perfect, I am not a racer but I just may have to run from the Law, lol, never say never.
I just never could self-justify the 1200-1500 price tags on the hotchkiss kit, for me anyways. But for the Lightning then I probably would, as if I get another one and mod it up it will just be me mostly inside it, where my truck now has seen 200k+ miles of family use along with some sprint street racing, just for fun, but now, with dang near almost 300K miles I cannot complain and love the ride and drive of the truck. Good luck with yours! Let us all know what changes you made and how it turns out!
I love the way my trucks drives and after it was finished I could have slapped myself for not doing it years ago, having bought the truck new I really am impressed with the tighter ride, lowered just right stance and improved handling, she actually does drive like a slot car racer, lol.

[2manytrucks]

I don't recall any welding when I installed my D*M*R pan hard bar. It came with a bracket that follows a portion of the bolt pattern of the diff cover and the other end bolted up too.

D*M*R has been banned on here but I think it was patterend off another vendors model which I don't remember.
Maybe some else will know after this jog's their memory.

Here is a picture similar to what mine looks like from another members truck.

Chuck, did Sean come over and detail the underside of your truck??

[m5james]

I did the Hellwig F&R swaybars and L swap myself this weekend...much better than the failed Belltech shocks that were installed in the rear! The front appeared to be stock and were still strong, but I tossed them anyways.

I did the rear sway and shocks first, then drove it around because I had to turn the truck around in the garage anyways. At first the ride was like night and day. After I did the front sway and shocks and drove around again, it almost felt like the huge difference I'd felt before was gone...maybe it had something to do w/ the rear being stiffer than the front. With all 4 now, it rides better, but I'd still like it stiffer...I dont wanna lower the front, but it might be time to lower the rear and finally level the truck out in hopes it'll ride better all around. Any suggestions for a simple 1"-2" drop w/ my current setup then?

[TMOY2000]

when you use the term "stiffer" are you meaning tighter up and down movement (or lack of) or less body roll into corners?.many use the light spring stiff bar approach, even racers (see extensive research and info from Mr. Tim Skelton's Lightning pages, he raced his lightning with info there on his and other's tips, tips and techniques for lowering and modding truck suspension in every direction, it's an almost "Must read" deal, see thru this link:
road racing modifications
remember that these shocks are spec'd for a lightning, which weighs close to 1000lbs. less than the 4 door crewcab trucks..making these shocks mushy under duress when used on the 4 door. Also needing review are the springs. Factory springs are what supports the weigh of the truck, shocks mearly attempt to control the "bounce/younce" occuring by the springs in use. Since you've spoken about possibly dropping the truck slightly, maybe you should investigate a slightly shorter/stiffer spring pair for the front. Also, when dropping the truck a total change oin handling and performance occurs, keep that in mind. An equal drop of 2 inches front and back will bring the sprung weight lower to the road, and while a small amount the change will be huge! Again, after I finally got around to doing my drop I kicked myself for not getting to it sooner, such a drastic for the good change couldn't be made by any other means, IMHO.
Those nitro drop shocks don't have much of a good rep when used on these 4 door fullsized trucks, I may be wrong but after reading almost countless "throw these in the trash bin" reviews I'll stick with the bilstein. You should also get with your best parts guy and have him go thru the catalog, or better yet call them up and tell them what your working with and trying to do and ask for their factory suggestions and part numbers, surely you can exchange the shocks from your vendor as needed.
One reason i bought mine at my local "auto-zone twilitezone) is because I can exchange them almost at will with their lifetime replacement package. That and their price matching (see store manager ad-lib) make some purchases I make almost auto-zone only!
read thru Mr/. Skelton's work and it will give you many more ideas, agin figure which way your trying to go with the ride and his info will be real helpful in decisions to get there.
Once again let us know what you come up with and how it works out for your.

[Blind]

judging by the looks of that stock bumpstop in your rear picture, your truck does'nt have lowering shackles in the back?

If you get a set of JLP lowering shackles you can drop it 2-3-4" and it's easy to change heights.



another thing you'll want if you lower the rear to level the truck is some shock extenders for the rear which just allow the shock to be more in their intended middle point when the truck is static.



I've moved my rear shackles into the middle hole since that first shot and the truck sits pretty level -

[TMOY2000]

also, why in the world are nitro drop lowered shocks on a non-lowered pick-up.hmmmmmmmm somethings not right in ......