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Thread: Carrier Bearing

  1. #16
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    look into inland truck parts.
    my Carrier bearing went out on me and Ford as you know doesnt sell it no more you only option is to buy the entire flipin drive shaft... 1600 bucks worth. Inland truck parts put me a new one on after taking it to them for 130 bucks took them 4 hrs and its a upgraded one from spicer.
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02maddness View Post
    look into inland truck parts.
    my Carrier bearing went out on me and Ford as you know doesnt sell it no more you only option is to buy the entire flipin drive shaft... 1600 bucks worth. Inland truck parts put me a new one on after taking it to them for 130 bucks took them 4 hrs and its a upgraded one from spicer.
    what location Irving or Denton and who was your contact person this some thing i think i will need soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02maddness View Post
    look into inland truck parts.
    my Carrier bearing went out on me and Ford as you know doesnt sell it no more you only option is to buy the entire flipin drive shaft... 1600 bucks worth. Inland truck parts put me a new one on after taking it to them for 130 bucks took them 4 hrs and its a upgraded one from spicer.
    I do not know a single shop that would work four hours for $130. Most want about $75 an hour plus parts.

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    I just have the lowering rear shackles that basically levels the truck out, but i think with the second u-joints being behind the carrier bearing all your angle change happens behind the front shaft and your slip yoke takes the brunt of the drive shaft being pushed forward from being lowered. So i feel that the front shaft should be as level as possible with the tail shaft, and let the slip yoke and second u-joints do all changing. I have seen other trucks being lowered so low that the drive shaft get shoved into the tailshaft of the tranny and blow the rear seal out, but thats like 5-8 inches from factory. If your that low you might have to shorten the rear drive shaft.

  5. #20
    HAWAIIAN 03 HD
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    I'm having the same problem and I'm out in Hawaii!! My truck has been down for a month now and only has 58k on it!! I'm pretty frustrated about it cause it's the second one. I am trying to find a person who builds QUALITY 1 piece shafts so I can be done with it?

    I'd rather BLOW UP a motor and rebuild it than deal with Obsolete Parts!

  6. #21
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  7. #22
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    The Original OE/Spicer has been discontinued. I can get a replacement from Spicer that was originally supplied with a 1/2" Spacer to go underneath, the Spacer is also NLA.

    The result is that your driveshaft will sit 1/2" closer to the crossmember. This shouldn't cause any problem except it will effectively lengthen your driveshaft about 1/8". Just be sure to double check that the driveshaft splines are not bottomed out.

    I can get this puppy to you for $56.85 plus shipping

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    At what mileage do these start to fail? Do they rattle? I have a low rattle noise while in gear that I'm trying to diagnose and I'm looking for suspects. Tks

  9. #24
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    Life span is a combination of miles and age, I'd say 10 years and the Rubber Cushion is hard and in need of replacement, the bearing may still be good for another 10 or more years.

    Here's how you do the most basic check of the C/B condition.

    Set the Parking Brake,
    Engine off, trans in neutral,
    Slide under truck, locate C/B
    Grab hold of driveshaft just behind the C/B and see how much side to side or up and down movement there is,
    There should be no completely free movement, if the rubber cushion that supports the Bearing is still soft and the bearing is snug it's OK,
    If the driveshaft is essentially loose in the rubber, it's time to replace it.

    Unfortunately, nobody supplies the Rubber Piece only. If the Bearing is still good (usually the case) You can R & R the Steel Housing and the Rubber Cushion without removing the Bearing from the shaft (takes special tools).

    Before you seperate the two sections of the shaft, since I can't remember if the Ford Splines have one double width tooth for alignment, mark the two pieces so that you put them back together alignedprecisely as they were.

    Remove the Steel Housing by un-clinching the lower strap. You will probably have to cut the rubber in half with a Box Knife. Take the new Rubber Cushion, note the alignment tabs on the bearing and the notches inside the rubber bore that match. Lightly grease the lafge side of the rubber and slide (force) it over the bearing (align the tabs, you will know when they are seated). Put the Steel Support back on. Liberally grease the male and female splines then reassemble the two sections (spline alignment) and put the assembly back into the truck.

    Not difficult, I've done it a hundred times. Actually it is bloody difficult if the driveshaft is out of a Big Rig.

    Mike

  10. #25
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    WOW, 16 bucks????? I wouldn't put one of those in my truck!!!!

    Mike

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    Here is a part a fellow member did using the Timken Bearing.
    timken part # hb88107a

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002 HD #491 View Post
    Here is a part a fellow member did using the Timken Bearing.
    timken part # hb88107a
    That sounds a little better but not so sure, from a ClubCobra post

    I just bought a set of wheel bearings at Auto Zone - because they carried Timken. I pulled the bearings out of the Timken box and it says right on the bearing. Made in China. Its the same exact Chinese piece of crap that I just took off, which failed in 15K miles. Has a number on it, but it does not say Timken, or any other name, on the bearing. What is going on here?


    For all I know, Spicer may be also, $hit is nothing made in the good old USA any more?

    Mike

  13. #28
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    This bearing will not work without major mods, trust me, i have no ride till i get the right one. I called ft wayne driveline and got the correct one for $85.00 plus shipping.

  14. #29
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    Well i finally got it done...I had pepboys do it for me and after they tried seven different ones they finally found it. The part number is HB88514...glad its over

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Molly View Post
    Well i finally got it done...I had pepboys do it for me and after they tried seven different ones they finally found it. The part number is HB88514...glad its over
    Do you know of any updates on this repair which might be easier

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