Carrier Bearing

[Black Molly]

Okay I just had the recal done and they stated that my carrier bearing is rubbing metal to metal. I found this
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My solution was to use a Super Duty Carrier Assembly 5C3Z-4800-B. It is ABSOLUTELY Identical to my Original Carrier except for the inner bearing ID of 1.574 vs the Original 1.378. In my case only the Rubber in my carrier was shot so I simply & CAREFULLY swapped my old Bearing for the Superduty Bearing.

The other options using the OE Carrier, would be to have a sleeve made at a machine shop or to find a Bearing with these dimensions. 1.378 bore x 2.835 O.D. x .984 to 1.063 Width.

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Has anyone else done this...is there another solution other that fords suggestion of complete driveshaft replacement?

Mike.....I saw a post about you making one...did you?

[GRANTBP]

dose any one make a whole shatf for our trucks

[Madferraristi]

dose any one make a whole shatf for our trucks

Yup, I have sold almost a dozen One Piece, Carbon Fiber Shafts to the guys on this Forum.

Mike

[torreyc]

how could you tell that the carrier berring was shot?

[Madferraristi]

how could you tell that the carrier berring was shot?

First, you check the rubber donut around the bearing as follows:

Either put the rear of the truck up on jackstands or park it across the gutter in you driveway so you can slide under it. Set the Parking Brake an put it in Neutral (engine off). Now slide under and grab hold of the driveshaft and see it it moves side to side or up and down. It will move, even with a new Bearing Assembly but there will be resitance. If the shaft moves freely within the Rubber Donut then you need a new one.

The only way to check the Bearing itself is to take the whole driveshaft out and spin the Bearing to see if it is tight, or it squeeks or otherwise appears shot.

Mike

[torreyc]

thanks mike!

[Black Molly]

Yup, I have sold almost a dozen One Piece, Carbon Fiber Shafts to the guys on this Forum.

Mike

Mike, Did you ever machine some of the carrier bearings? Are you able to if not?

[03SCHDF150]

I just replaced my center support bearing "carrier bearing" with the 5C3Z-4800-B just like stated from above. It's a very easy fix as long as your actual bearing isn't ruined. I have an 03 Harley truck with around 166000 miles with a shift kit. The only damage done to mine was the rubber around the bearing was rotted and chunks missing. I think the shift kit had a little to do with rubber deteriorating and chunking, but with the mileage on my truck i'm satisfied on how long it lasted. I paid 122 dollars from my local ford dealership, alot better than 695! Thank you very much for posting the info about this carrier bearing and what parts to use and how to fix it. It was very helpful and saved my wallet!

[Black Molly]

possible yatzee

Center bearings replacements, better than OE, save money! - Drivetrain.com

[Black Molly]

duplicate post

[Black Molly]

awesome news...called them up and they say it fits our trucks...1.378id and everything else matches...$95 a piece....gonna order one and give it a try...I will let you know.

[03SCHDF150]

Black Molly you might want to look into a 1/2 inch spacer to space it down for that center bearing style. Mine had one tached onto my original carrier bearing, and the new super duty has the 1/2 spacer on it also. I'm sure with the u joints and the slip yoke it will work but may vibrate because the front half of the shaft will run uphill to the carrier bearing. I would bolt that new carrier bearing on your truck without being pressed on the drive shaft and find 2 reference measurements to measure the center of your tail shaft and center of the new bearing and see how far uphill it runs if any, then get 1/2 inch of washers to temporarily space it down and remeasure. Driveline angles are sensitive for vibration, and the front shaft running up hill would put the rubber around the bearing in a bind and probably cause premature failure. Just trying to help and not be a "no it all".. I work in nascar and we have our pinion angles and drive line angles perfect because of vibration and part failure. Our street vehicles don't run 8300 rpms constantly but I feel we need to get our trucks as perfect as possible for performance. I had a straight line laser down the center of my pinion and center of my trans tail shaft and reinstalled my driveshaft with the ford oem part and still had to pry the carrier bearing to the right while I tightened it up to get shaft in a perfect straight line. Hopefully this will be useful for you. Thanks and I'm also new to this site.

[Black Molly]

Black Molly you might want to look into a 1/2 inch spacer to space it down for that center bearing style. Mine had one tached onto my original carrier bearing, and the new super duty has the 1/2 spacer on it also. I'm sure with the u joints and the slip yoke it will work but may vibrate because the front half of the shaft will run uphill to the carrier bearing. I would bolt that new carrier bearing on your truck without being pressed on the drive shaft and find 2 reference measurements to measure the center of your tail shaft and center of the new bearing and see how far uphill it runs if any, then get 1/2 inch of washers to temporarily space it down and remeasure. Driveline angles are sensitive for vibration, and the front shaft running up hill would put the rubber around the bearing in a bind and probably cause premature failure. Just trying to help and not be a "no it all".. I work in nascar and we have our pinion angles and drive line angles perfect because of vibration and part failure. Our street vehicles don't run 8300 rpms constantly but I feel we need to get our trucks as perfect as possible for performance. I had a straight line laser down the center of my pinion and center of my trans tail shaft and reinstalled my driveshaft with the ford oem part and still had to pry the carrier bearing to the right while I tightened it up to get shaft in a perfect straight line. Hopefully this will be useful for you. Thanks and I'm also new to this site.

I appreciate your input....I really think this is uncharted territory and the more info the better. Unfortunately our trucks are getting to a age that we have parts that have not failed until know....as you can see we where using a f250 part and hacking it to make it work...until know...beats $1000 ford wants to charge for the whole shaft... I do have one question. Mine is dropped 2 inches should I shim it more?. Was yours factory heights?

[2002 HD #491]

One of our members has already identified the appropriate Timken bearing. I think it was $40.00

[Black Molly]

One of our members has already identified the appropriate Timken bearing. I think it was $40.00

I think that is actually for the F250 and there has to be some modifications...there is a another thread that I have inquired about the process but there is not a response.