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Thread: How To Carrier Bearing

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    How To Carrier Bearing

    Found this on another forum...might want to add to the how to section sticky

    Harley Carrier Bearing

    First off You can't find a replacement bearing for these specific trucks at the parts store, so you have to be creative a look differently. When I first checked the only 1/2 ton truck that had one was for the 98 F150 crew cab truck. So after some deliberating I chose this one.


    First start by putting the rear tires on ramps with the E-brake set down pretty well. Or if on a lift you still need the e-brake on.

    Next is that you have to pull all of the drive shaft out.

    First I pulled the rear portion off the rear-end. It looks like this after you are done. I cant remember what size the bolts are but you will need a closed ended 12 pt wrench.


    Next you need to pull the four bolts that hold the u-joint, at the carrier, off. this will allow you to remove the rear portion of the drive shaft. Remember that after you do this two of the caps on the u-joint wont be held on to it by any means, so be careful and don't let them slide off or you'll be either replacing a u-joint or trying to put the needle bearings back in which isn't any fun. carefully tape the caps on with electrical tape, masking tape, or anything else that will hold them there.



    Next is the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing. You will need an extension to help. The bolts are on the bottom of the bed.


    Next you need to slide the front portion from the tailshaft. It should just slide out. Now if you were level fluid might pour out of the tail section. but being as you should be on ramps the fluid won't come out.


    Now put the front portion containing the bearing on a vise or make something up to hold the shaft still. Spray down the nut holding the yoke on so you can get the bearing off. You will need an impact to get this baby off. A little heat to the nut also helps. Use a torch to heat only the nut!


    Now the fun part is getting the bearing off. I used two long-handled pry bars to push the bearing off the shaft. Not an easy task. easier if you have a friend there with two other pry bars to help also. Once you get it off it looks like this.


    Now to prep your new bearing. A face plate will go on like this. Its a pain to get on but it does fit.


    Now you need to turn over the bearing over to the other side and trim a little of the rubber that sticks out on the inside. This will rub the drive shaft and squall if you dont. just a little bit is needed. about a quarter inch or so. I don't have a pic sorry.

    now if you put the bearing on like this, the yoke will rub and well make a grinding noise so you will need to place the bearing on the vise and use a large socket to beat the lip down to the same place as the bearing itself.


    Now place the bearing on the shaft with the shinny side facing out. You will need a large bar that will fit over the shaft to hammer the bearing all the way back. after you do this put the yoke back on with the nut and use either the impact or wrench to put the yoke back on good a tight. It takes a lot so use the impact to be fairly quick.


    Now take the old bearing and you have to take the space off the top of it. you will need to grind the tack welds off. nothing really hard here.


    Put the spacer on top of the new bearing when you install it. The spacer keeps the shaft at the right height.

    Now just put the stuff back together.

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    are there pics associated with this?

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    I found this today at lunch. I searched O'Riely's for a 2002 F150 HD and they stock a replacement for 15.99.
    List: Carrier Bearing/Center Support Bearing - 2002 Ford F-150 | O'Reilly Auto Parts

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    nice find

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    Man this is expensive!!!
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    make sure you mark the driveshaft sections before you pull them apart so when you put it back together it is in the correct alignment and orientation...otherwise it is going to be unbalanced.
    2002 HD F150 (Sold)
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    HAWAIIAN 03 HD
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    Do they have a part number available?

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    I know this is an old thread....... But was the oreilly part a direct replacement?

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    This something I need to do myself pics would help thanks guys

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