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Thread: Hellwig Rear Sway bar installed - What a difference

  1. #46
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    front is even more critical than the rear, a non-level front sway bar will induce bump steer pretty badly.

    You can buy endlink kits from prothane in various lengths. An adjustable endlink just allows you to turn it like a ti-rod to set the length exactly.
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  2. #47
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    I can cut the rear end links myself and adjust the bolt length as needed, but I'm afraid of the front since it floats over the control arm. I guess if I cut the front sleeves too much, I've got an extra set of sleeves, left over from the rear kit. I'll have to play with this, take some measurements and I'll report back with pics and dimensions.
    Last edited by m5james; 07-19-2012 at 07:15 PM.
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    yours looks exactly the same as mine.. I called David Willer at Hellwig and he said to shorten the spacers
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    On Saturday I'm going to Formula DRIFT (watching, not entering ;) ) but I will try to look into cutting them to length on Sunday. Why they're not cut to the appropriate length from the factory or comes w/ the appropriate lengths (since it did include FX4 longer hardware as well) is questionable. I have no problem cutting the spacers, using the edge of the gas tank is a great reference point, but my concern is running out of threads on the bolts and trying to find strong enough bolts at my local Lowe's that will work if I need to buy shorter bolts.

    As for the front, I'll just have to jack it up on the frame, remove the wheel, then jack the suspension up via the spindle and then cut as needed to get the front parallel to the ground as well...then hope to god my calibrated eyeballs and measurements are good enough that I don't hit the lower control arm on really heavy bumps or hard corners.

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    same here..i am going to take it back appart and use the tank as a gauge for the threadts.. if it does not even look close... phone call to Hellwig. paid too much for 2 bolts to be short of threads

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    I wrote a lengthy email to the same person I wrote in the past, explained my/our concerns and linked him to this thread since it has pictures of our issues, common problems and concerns, etc. We shall see.

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    I can copy & paste the emails if everyone prefers, but short story is he said to clock the shackles down lower, but I explained that I'm already hitting a wire support bracket and only about an 1" or so above the differential. I'll going to take some more pics, then he's agreed to send shorter sleeves and bolts once I get measurements. I also reiterated the poor instructions, but he's yet to reply again. From what I've read on Tim Skelton's website, Hellwig has made improvements, but now it sounds like they just need to fine tune the details. I'll keep you guys posted.

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    Hmmmmmmmmmmmm guys maybe this will help ya'll some......take a piece of allthread and some extra nuts and washers, make up your end links from this, then once you get the stabizer bars aligned how you like it you can use the allthread as a simulated piece (end link for length) to either measure and buy or to then cut your pieces to length.
    Many many old school race cars actually use(or used) heavy duty (black steel not shiney!) allthread made custom end links, making the end link attachment points adjustable to shock and spring settings. I don't know if they still make those larger diameter but short turnbuckle style end links (such as wheelie bar mounts and ladder?locator bar end links) but if your in a city with good supply sources it may be worth a drive to fish thru some inventory you may just find exactly what you need once you have the dimensions speced out.
    Also, some have simply cut their links once correct dimensions are known and weld them back up to the corrected length, alot of lowering shops do that as I've seen it having been done a bunch of times.
    As always good luck, show us all your finished projects and keep listing the details of how you worked thru the hard parts, snags, etc. And again as always thanks for taking the extra time to depict it all, I know that can be a hassle also when busy trying to get something done.

    From The Great Nation of Texas

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    Hellwig just wrote me today and said that once I get my measurements, they'll send out some shorter spacers and bolts. He was curious about my mounting location for the shackles, but I've yet to take a pic of the gap above the pumpkin for refence.

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    Laugh

    Quote Originally Posted by Blind View Post
    front is even more critical than the rear, a non-level front sway bar will induce bump steer pretty badly.

    You can buy endlink kits from prothane in various lengths. An adjustable endlink just allows you to turn it like a ti-rod to set the length exactly.
    got my front sway bar today Hellwig 7646 will install this weekend

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    The front is super easy. I got both front and read, swaybars and shocks, done in about 6hrs.

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    here is how short the bolts would have to be for the bar to be level
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  13. #58
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    1.5", got it. I'll tell the guy to check this thread again since he's offered to send new hardware. Now to figure out the front.

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    i emailed kevin at hellwig the pics... just waiting on a call now

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    have the full hotchkis TVS and Bilsteins on my 03, handles like it's on rails.

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