Looking at an 02 HD tomorrow

[cayman150]

Agreed, but mine has been on so long there a marks in the paint if I take if off.

Yeah and if you're in Florida it's almost a requirement unless you like painting your truck every 6 months! Damn lovebugs!

[cayman150]

Attachment 26220

she's home!

Se what I told ya!

Dentist or not................You're grinning!

Congrat's!.
You got a great deal on a nicely modded truck.
Future purchase - I'd get a wideband A/F gauge so you can keep on top of your tunes.

[1Bd Bagr]

Agreed, but mine has been on so long there a marks in the paint if I take if off.

I'd bet with your paint expertise you could easily get any marks out lol....
Tim

[Merlin]

Yepper, that's how I tell the weather...I look in my hood.

Yesterday it was clear. Today it's cloudy.

[Blind]

Eh, not really wanting to do LTs. I had nothing but complete headaches with mine on the Cobra. Blown gaskets, snapped head bolts, exhaust leaks, not to mention the install. I'm sure an OR mid pipe would do more than just increase noise, especially on an FI car. I know they're worth about 15WHP on NA cobras, I'm sure that would be more on a 331 CI FI motor VS a 289 CI NA motor

Swapping longtubes on my truck takes as much time as a mid pipe swap on my sn95. If you pull the fender liners off the front you are staring right at all of the header bolts.

about 2 hours on jackstands start to finish. You're welcome to do whatever you want though Most aftermarket midpipes to fit shorties or the stock manifolds cost more than the OBX kit does.

[Oceanside78]

Let me throw in my two cents...First congrats on the new ride, and second, Hows it run compared to the NA Cobra? Just my suggestion...they look much smoother without the bug shield on the hood (JMO).
Tim

Well, I actually already raced mine lol buddy had to drive mine home. From a dig I actually got the jump, but by about 40 it was even and by 60 it put about 2 cars and was pulling away pretty well. I'm still very happy though, that means this should be a high 13 to VERY low 14 second truck (I hope) as my Cobras best at the strip was 13.04 @ 108 with a 2.0 60' on street tires. Very satisfied. I didn't even launch from a higher RPM, just idle. Considering it has a VB, the PO might have done a TQ converter

[Oceanside78]

Swapping longtubes on my truck takes as much time as a mid pipe swap on my sn95. If you pull the fender liners off the front you are staring right at all of the header bolts.

about 2 hours on jackstands start to finish. You're welcome to do whatever you want though Most aftermarket midpipes to fit shorties or the stock manifolds cost more than the OBX kit does.

Dang, didn't know it was that easy on these. What's the quality on em though? Never read many positive things on OBX. Hell, Hooker has a pretty good rep and I had to send one back because the surface wasn't perfect and cause my first blown header gasket.

I'll had to look into it. What are these motors capable of? And what do you guys think I'm at power wise with these mods?

[Oceanside78]

@Cayman, I'm def. going to do an A/F gauge, going to look around for a good spot to put a bung and have one placed. I want to keep a close eye on vitals, I'm very anal about cleanliness and proper operation. The slightest tick or any odd noise/feel and I'm tracking it down immediately.

[Blind]

Dang, didn't know it was that easy on these. What's the quality on em though? Never read many positive things on OBX. Hell, Hooker has a pretty good rep and I had to send one back because the surface wasn't perfect and cause my first blown header gasket.

I'll had to look into it. What are these motors capable of? And what do you guys think I'm at power wise with these mods?

They quality of all the piping and header flanges is very high, the quality of the hardware and clamps included is ****. I replaced the clamps with walker/dynomax 2.5" SS slip fit clamps, reused the stock manifold studs and stock manifold gaskets, no leaks for 2 years now.




That's how they looked after I pulled them back in Jan. when I had to swap back to stock for smog (CA ). Took about 1.5 hrs to swap back to stock, lol.


depends on what size pulleys you have for what kind of power you're making.
Measure the upper and the lower (crank) that the blower belt runs on.

But stock at 6psi was rated 360hp at the crank, if you're making 10psi with a 4lb lower pulley it's probably close to 360-380rwhp

motor is good to ~450rwhp with the stock rods. Upgrade the rods and go as high as you want really.

[Oceanside78]

I'll have to measure them. My gauge shows 12 pounds at WOT, so high 300s then? I'm going to shoot for 400, figure I can run that safely. I don't drive my cars to the ground anyways

[cayman150]

If you get 400hp you'll be in the 13's.

Measure those pullies where the belt rides not including the lip and let us know. Factory boost is 6#. If you have an L upper it's a 2.93" which should give you roughly 2# boost. Your CAI setup with your C&L elbow, SBTB and upper plenum will give you another 2#.

Once you verify the tune and maybe get it refreshed with a 6# lower pulley you should compete with that Fox body pretty close providing you can get traction off the line.

[Oceanside78]

I'll have to post some pics of my setup and have you point me to which one to measure. I have what looks to be an aftermarket pulley bracket with some billet pulleys on it. There's a lot of em.

[cayman150]

Just measure the upper pulley and the lower pulley. The others are auxillary idlers.
Being that it looks like you have an L snout (SVT marked) on your blower it is probably already an OEM L 2.93" upper which is a good thing.
That way, whatever lower pulley you have or will get will result in more accurate boost gains.

Here's some info regarding the various sizes.

http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/2000-20...raph-form.html

[dukcaln]

you going to get a tune in that truck that you can be 100% sure is safe and for your mods, I would? That would be the first thing that i do

[Oceanside78]

you going to get a tune in that truck that you can be 100% sure is safe and for your mods, I would? That would be the first thing that i do

I am, I née to get it scheduled. Closest place to me is about 100 miles, but their by far them most credible modular tuners in this state, mainly dealing with mustangs, but have seen some roush charger installs on F150s and they are top notch.

I'm actually wondering if there's a problem arising. I've put about 100 miles on the truck so far and use remote start every time. When walking out of pep boys today (bought all the stuff for my cleaning and tune up) the truck wasn't running. It cranked but didn't start. Hopped in and used the key, it turned over a bit more than it usually does. On the way home, I stopped to grab some beer (necessity lol) and when leaving used the key again, and it turned over a few extra times again. I'm sure it's nothing but like I previously stated, I'm extremely anal about cleanliness and operation.

So my question is, how much vacuum should I be seeing at idle? I'm new to supercharged engines, so I'm not in the know yet. Gauge is reading about 18 at idle with about 31-32 psi fuel. I did a small WOT to see what I read and saw about 9ish lbs of boost and let off at about 3500-4k RPM. I could have sworn I saw 12 pounds during test drive. I haven't gone WOT since, does it build boost still past 3500?

I bought oil/filter, fuel filter, and a PCV valve for my tune up, hoping the extended cranking is either nothing, or a little dirty fuel filter.

What's your guys' thoughts?