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Thread: alignment problem?

  1. #16
    78shovel 91bagger 2000
    Name: Jim

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    Just did uppers and lowers and all bussings on my 2000 that never stops @ 200,000 miles

  2. #17
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    ran into the same problem when to ford got the bolts and washer spent all most $200 when back to the shop for them to tell me that someonein the pass had put the bolts in already. An they where the ones that told me to go buy them. so if anyone wants them they can have them for $100 shipped.

  3. #18
    Rumblin Bumblin Stumblin
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    would it be possible for someone to post a list of all the parts needed to order from moog or wherever you order them from? so many different things posted, im getting lost with what all would be needed.

  4. #19
    Worlds Shiniest HD F-150!
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    FORD

    Camber Bolts (4).................F65z-3b236-BB.$.14.40 each = $57.60

    Cam Washers (4)................F65z-3c178-AA....$9.98 each = $39.92

    Nuts (4)..............................N805480-s441......$4.50 each = $18.00

    Total.................................................. ........................... $115.52

  5. #20
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    My truck has been eating the inner front tires for awhile. Mainly the right. It has 150k miles on it. And for some reason the front looks like its been lower but it hasn't. I was thinking my springs were wearing out but that's not normal. So if I change the lower balljoints and put new uca on it will this fix my problem? Or will I still need cam bolts? Also it seems my pitman arm is getting some slop in it.

  6. #21
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
    Name: stew

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    lca Ball joints typically wear out first....

    113k on mine and one lca ball was on the way out....I put new LCA with moog components in and still put camber bolts in so that I could run the specs that I like to run on my truck.....which you cant do with stock alignment shims

  7. #22
    HiTech Redneck
    Name: Jack

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    As these trucks get over 100K you should also look at the Pittman arms and idler arms.
    Just did mine last night and the idler sounded like a sack of marbles! And it was the SECOND one in 115K miles.
    Tie rod ends were in great shape still.

    LFP cold air, idlers & SBTB, Steig ported Eaton & intake, BA2600, C&L, Punisher, Belltech suspension Rotor Pros, Harwood hood JVC audio & other stuff I can't remember over the last 2.5 years! Tuned by JJ@WMS

  8. #23
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    Okay thanks guys. So my springs are probably still fine? I see rockauto has very good prices on the moog uca and lbj and on the pitman and idler arms. Their camber kit says it has everything in it and its only round $20. So my problems should be fixed with all these parts? And an a different question because I don't want to start a new thread. I've got the obx lts I'm about to install I thought I read something about being able to reroute the O2 harness instead of getting extensions but I can't find that anymore so anybody know if that's possible? I ordered the extensions and locking bolts 2 weeks ago and it seems I got burnt on that order and nobody locally carries extensions.

  9. #24
    HiTech Redneck
    Name: Jack

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    Couple tips on the pittman arm install - get a Lisle HEAVY DUTY puller for a Ford F250 - should be about $30.00. It will work and not break. You will need a 1 5/16 socket or box end wrench to get the nut off the steering box. Crank the puller down tight & hit the arm with a hammer to break it loose, but don't get too close as it will really pop off when it does. Smacked mine with an air hammer and it came right off. You will also need a 27MM socket for the castle nuts on the Moog parts. Took me about 3 hours to do pittman & idler.

  10. #25
    Registered User
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    I redid my whole front end at 100k. I already had the camber bolts though since I was lowered before hand. Another good thing to ad is clunk washers
    01 hd with a s/c swap, built motor, ported heads, stage 3 cams, whipple 3.4 s/c 4 upper and 4 lower for the street, 3.5 upper and 6 lower when i want to get nasty. wms big inlet and cai, whipple 160 sbtb, punisher built trans, circle d 2400 stall, trick stage 3 i/c, lfp dual pass h/e, triple 255 fps in a fore hat, -10 feed and -6 return, aeromotive reg., jlp rails, 80# inj., ba3000 maf, sct x-cal3, jlp comp r, detroit tru-trac, ta rear diff cover, 4.10 gears, jlp traction bars, metco idler pullies, mp tensioner bridge, hotchkis tvs, plenty of bling and soon to come new mods

  11. #26
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    Not to bring up a beat thread but my toe is out too. My inners are worn. I made a thread too, but got confused quickly. I have 43K miles and the front end looks good. It's stock height with bilstien shocks. Do I only need cam bolts or clunk washers? And where do they go? I'm about to get new fronts and an alignment to L spec but want this issue fixed first
    2002 Harley Davidson F150
    Intake-C&L elbow-SBTB-L upper/snout-4# Lower-Bassani catted mid-Bassani Cat Back-VB-Diablo tuned-Best time: 13.8 @ 100.7
    Soon to be: 6# lower-SCT MAF-Custom Tune

  12. #27
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    Name: stew

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    you will need camber bolts to get it aligned to LSpecs...

  13. #28
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    And that's it? Will the alignment shop know what and where those go? What about that thing that goes in the driver side LCA, do I need that?

  14. #29
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
    Name: stew

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    need two pair...and they go in the upper control arm to allow for more caster/camber

    look at your driver side LCA rear bolt area and see if the bolt has been shifting around in the slotted hole...if so...then yes clunk washers would fix that....

  15. #30
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    Jesus I HATE suspension stuff. Ok, so 4 total and ill be good? Should I install them or should they? I don't mess with suspension stuff. I hate it

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