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Thread: Going to the track tomorrow

  1. #16
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    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    Hey that's great! You're definately right that with some weight reduction, custom tune and stickier tires and maybe even long bars you should be quicker next time. (Believe me, we know how to help you spend your mod money!) A couple of tenths here and there with those few changes gives a faster 60' and you should be able to cut a full second off and be in the high 12's.

    Well done and good luck next time too!

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

  2. #17
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    WOW , I am impressed.

    What is the "forgot to pull it out of first" you said earlier?

    Are you manually shifting it through the gears?! ---
    03' Black Harley F-150 #577 29k miles
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    Going to the track tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by alwayscode390 View Post
    WOW , I am impressed.

    What is the "forgot to pull it out of first" you said earlier?

    Are you manually shifting it through the gears?! ---
    No, but I would bring it down to 1st to heat the tires up in the burnout box. First time I did it it shifted during the burnout and shuddered. It didn't feel good. So, I just put it in 1 and put some heat in the tires. That run, I forgot to put it back in drive. Oops.
    2002 Harley Davidson F150
    Intake-C&L elbow-SBTB-L upper/snout-4# Lower-Bassani catted mid-Bassani Cat Back-VB-Diablo tuned-Best time: 13.8 @ 100.7
    Soon to be: 6# lower-SCT MAF-Custom Tune

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by cayman150 View Post
    Hey that's great! You're definately right that with some weight reduction, custom tune and stickier tires and maybe even long bars you should be quicker next time. (Believe me, we know how to help you spend your mod money!) A couple of tenths here and there with those few changes gives a faster 60' and you should be able to cut a full second off and be in the high 12's.

    Well done and good luck next time too!
    Long bars are a debate I've had with myself for a while. Between that and a 1 pc driveshaft and a torque converter, I'm starting to get into more serious mods, which I told myself I wouldn't do. I'm trying to save up to get another R1 or CBR1000 and if I keep spending on this ill never make it happen. I do like breaking off imports at the track in the truck though! lol

  5. #20
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    Going to the track tomorrow

    If you don't have slicks you shouldn't use the burnout box, drive around it so your tires don't collect water in the tread and then have it pool while staging.
    2002 DSG HD #09617 NHTOC Truck of the month November 2012
    Ported eaton/plenum/tb, 6lb lower, SCT BA-2600 MAF, OBX longtubes, JLP intake, FTVB, L-spec bilsteins, Hotchkis TVS, 22" replicas. Tuned by Ray McClelland of FTK

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    Not an option at my track. For some reason there is ZERO chance to avoid the burnout box, the right side has the wall leading to its edge and the middle is filled with the water barrels. It's quotes annoying. So I get the water and dirt off, and put a little heat in them. I'd do it regardless, I don't care what anyone says, street tires or not, every tire needs a little heat to get the best 60'. Emphasis on LITTLE, smoking street tires is absolutely unnecessary.

  7. #22
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    those were some good times.. I am so curious as to what my truck will run full weight... I have Amazon tune, lighting upper 4lb lower, ported eaton, exhaust and a punisher vb ...

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    That is great time for full weight and stock tires! Congrats! Maybe bring that 60' down a bit via "stabbing" at yellow with trac-bars?

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    Not bad at all. I did a similar thing t the track with my truck. Somebody told me to do my burn out in 2nd. Well I forgot to put her in drive. Ran a 12.2 in second gear, shifting into 3rd and the it shifted into o/d lol. Oh yea I forgot to shut that off also.

    Some tips if you didn't do them. Move he pedals all the way up, remove the floor mats (had the pedal get stuck once), unplug the boost by pass solenoid or shut truck of and restart after burn out. Also what rpm are you leaving at? Some like to flash the converter, but with stock tires I think it would be best to roll into the throttle

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    Is the 2nd gear burnout ok to do on your transmission?

    Whats with the boost bypass solenoid? What does it do?

    Thanks ---

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by dukcaln View Post
    those were some good times.. I am so curious as to what my truck will run full weight... I have Amazon tune, lighting upper 4lb lower, ported eaton, exhaust and a punisher vb ...
    Probably about what I ran man. We have similar mods

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by '02 H-D #677 View Post
    That is great time for full weight and stock tires! Congrats! Maybe bring that 60' down a bit via "stabbing" at yellow with trac-bars?
    I'm def doing trac bars, but they're a little lower on the list.

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    TPR103 I'm leaving at 1-1100. Didn't really spin much but I pedaled the throttle till it hooked. I don't know what flashing the converter means. Or boost bypass. Care to share?

  14. #29
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    The boost by pass solenoid is on the drivers side. What it does is during a load with high boost after you close the throttle and stop and return to an idle rpm it dumps the boost. Well after that it puts itself into a default mode so it doesn't damage anything. The most common situation is after a burn out.

    Flashing the converter is when you are at an idle and roll into it. Most times it will break loose and spin. If you didn't spin leaving at 1100 I would try a higher rpm til you do. Then drop back down to where you don't.

    Another good trick the guys here have been doing for years is removing the rubber strip in the wiper cowl. It's the strip that seals the hood. It allows the air trapped in he engine compartment to escape.

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    Going to the track tomorrow

    ^oh good idea. I've been thinking about a good to get fresh air in there, but have yet to find on I like. I may actually stop modding all together. I'm really wanting another bike. Decisions decisions....

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