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Thread: 03 starting problem

  1. #16
    '03 Shamu/Build #04441
    Name: Sean

    5.4 F150's Avatar
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    Started up this morning, and three more times today. Just checked the voltage and it's still sitting @ 12.56V. Charging @ 14.42 after a few minutes. Think all is good.
    Have to see what happens after 4-5 or even 7 days since I travel frequently. Perhaps a battery tender may be required in time. We'll see. At least now I know it had nothing to do with the conversions! I'm a mechanical guy and the electrical completely baffles me. I just follow the instructions and hope for the best

  2. #17
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.4 F150 View Post
    Thanks everyone. Had to go on another trip. Just got back, and picked up an Optima D34 on the way home today, installed it, and problem solved! The old battery was fine until I installed the new alarm w/remote start, auto window, and the 500W Navi stereo. Ended up being too much drain on the Feb 2011 battery.

    Since I've also been converting to LED's and HID's, I want sure if it was a coincidence, or I screwed something up and had a short. Frustrating but it's all good now.

    After reading up, probably put my mirrors on hold, and go with the L&S oil separator, and clean the inter cooler since I have no history. From what I read, not only is it a very good idea, but it's going to help the performance
    In red above....this is what started my issues too. Before I had my alarm installed I could leave the truck sit for weeks and it would start right up. Afterwards it killed any battery that didn't have a battery tender hooked up to float the charge. I went through 2 Optima's, 1 Exide AGM and an OEM Motorcraft until my stubborn azz bought a battery tender.

    I guess if I was driving it more often it would be ok. I just couldn't make myself believe that the little blinking red light for the alarm was causing so much havoc!

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

  3. #18
    Registered User
    Name: BRIAN


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    Ha!! What is that about $1,000 worth of batteries

  4. #19
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    With the exchange rate of my currency.....actually yes!
    Damn I can be stubborn! I saw all kind of posts on this site to get a battery tender for the non DD and just ignored them.
    This site rocks for advice on our trucks as the majority have been through all this stuff before.

  5. #20
    Worlds Shiniest HD F-150!
    Name: ]\/[ike

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    Best $29.95 I spent. Red flash=not connected. Red solid=Charging. A "solid green" light and I know it's a reliable start.
    My problem could be my alarm also. The person I purchased the truck from had a Clifford alarm installed. (Remote start etc.)
    I probably could use a better version of the Battery Tender than the Jr. but that's what I had on the shelf and it works for me.

  6. #21
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
    Best $29.95 I spent. Red flash=not connected. Red solid=Charging. A "solid green" light and I know it's a reliable start.
    My problem could be my alarm also. The person I purchased the truck from had a Clifford alarm installed. (Remote start etc.)
    I probably could use a better version of the Battery Tender than the Jr. but that's what I had on the shelf and it works for me.
    The little red blinking light I was referring to was the one for the alarm. Since that was the only thing that changed I couldn't figure out what else in the alarm system would draw current all of the time while parked?

  7. #22
    '03 Shamu/Build #04441
    Name: Sean

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    Maybe this is my problem too. Added everything at the same time so I don't know which one killed the battery.

    The silver lining here is at least I know what to do if I start having issues down the road. Thanks to all of you good folks, I'll just buy myself a battery tender at a fraction of what it would cost me for a new battery until it won't take a charge anymore, and buy the next one based on what others are having the best luck with.

    Thanks again everyone!
    JBA Coffee & Cars 06/12/2016


  8. #23
    Oki 916's Dad NHTOC #103
    Name: Slick

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    So what's a normal charge while driving a DD?

  9. #24
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    I would recommend getting an interstate battery. They are awesome batteries and have a good warranty.

    Email is fast..... Jake@3rdrowinnovations.com

  10. The Following User Liked Braker85 For This Useful Post:

    Bigd3077 (06-21-2015)

  11. #25
    aka not rite
    Name: Bob

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    My truck is not a daily driver.... 2000 miles so far this year. Never had a problem but I don't have a fancy alarm or stereo. My truck is still stock. Guess I will stay away from a different alarm. Don't drive it when it's cold so no need for remote start.

  12. #26
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    Name: Dale

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    I've always used interstate. Even if it is not free replacement, they give a discount rate for new battteries. Merlin, I have the best alarm and stereo guy that works out of my warehouse if you wanted him to investigate your issues. A1 STEREO is his buisness.

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