Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: HD Hydraboost Conversion

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Name: Mat

    mdan575's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SE Richmond
    Posts
    340
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    HD Hydraboost Conversion

    Some of this is copied and pasted from other sources. Main contributors being the guys over at LR. Without them this really wouldn't be close to where it is now. The knowledge base really laid this out with input from alot of people. Making this upgrade about as easy as it could get. Not spectacular at How To's so ask questions if I missed anything. I tried to take as many pics as possible though to show the work as best I can.

    So I recently converted the truck over to Hydraboost. I must say it is a significant improvement over the stock vacuum boost. For those wondering why the article I linked to explains the increase in braking pressure.

    http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/1112t..._boost_brakes/

    Paraphrase for easy reading:

    When they tested pressure in the brake lines on a stock truck with vacuum booster the max they could get was 700psi with a constant 550psi braking pressure at the caliper. After the conversion to hydraboost it jumped to 2000psi of pressure and a constant 1800psi. They also recommended converting all rubber lines to stainless braided and with 2k pressures I can understand why.

    On to pictures and what you need to know. If you want to upgrade your truck. Considerations on my HD I have adjustable pedals. I thought it might cause an issue using the rod installed on the Hydrabooster unit. Came to find out that it's not necessary unless you want the pedal at the stock height. Installed with the rod originally installed in the Hydraboost unit will have the pedal lower close to where the accelerator pedal is. Some like it that way some don't. Personally I also wanted my pedal at stock height.



    Parts you need:

    From hydroboost TO gear box : Gates #352790 (02 f250 7.3) $21 Rockauto
    From pump to hydroboost : Gates #365493 (06 f250 6.0 diesel ) $16 Rockauto
    2001-2004 F250, F350 Hydraboost Unit $60 Local Pull a Part (they show up on Ebay often also)
    You can get a remanufactured unit like Motorcraft BRB-33 but it will missing a Rod, Spring, Retainer, and Curved Lines that will most likely come with one from a scrap yard.
    3/8" ID Brass Hose Barb T $7
    Power Steering Hose Hi-Temp 3/8" ID 3ft $11 (More than enough, I had a reasonable amount left over.)
    Hose Clamps for Powersteering Hose


    Parts to put the Pedal in the stock location:

    All Parts came from Talon Hydraulics Builder of high quality hydroboost brake systems
    1 x THI 502 3/8-24 stainless steel coupling nut hex (THI 502) = $5.00
    1 x THI 4001 Stake type Hydroboost brake pedal rod (THI 4001) = $15.00 Length 2.5 inch
    1 x THI 107 - 4.125 long 3/8-24 Male Pedal rod end (THI 107) = $15.00
    1 x THI 500 3/8-24 Stainless Steel Jam Nuts 9/16 Hex (THI 500) = $2.00




    Tools to make life easier:

    Stubby Metric Wrench Set
    Metric Flare Nut Wrenchs
    Metric Sockets, Extension and Universal Joints


    Pic 1 is Rod Removal. I borrowed the tool from someone but it was a simple item that put pressure on the tube containing the stake in rod. Don't make the mistake I did and use a Slide Hammer. Destroyed my first Booster that way. The tool popped the rod right no problem without damaging anything. Installed the new rod from Talon and staked it in with a chisel. Easy


    Pics 2-4 are removal of the Fuse Box and preparation. This is whole lot easier if you slide the fuse box up out of the the way and remove the bracket that holds it. Trust me you will do alot less cussing removing the vacuum booster and installing the lines for the hydraboost unit. Lay a rag over the fender and the whole fuse box can be pulled up and hang over the side of the fender without disconnecting the cable wiring. Ensure you disconnect the battery because the fuse box does have live lines.


    Pics 5-10 Are Relocating 2 Studs on the Mounting Plate. 2 Have to be pressed out and new holes drilled. Make sure you press out the right 2. As the pictures illustrate 2 are farther apart vertically than the other 2. The 2 that are farther apart will go right into the factory holes. In my case I removed the plate from the unit I damaged and used it to get the holes marked. You can do it with the plate on the unit. Just slide the whole unit into place to mark the holes from inside. Then remove drill and re-install the studs. I recommend using normal nut and lock washer on those 2. because the original nuts that came off are lock nuts and could be a problem later if you ever try to remove the unit and the 2 studs aren't held in place good enough.


    Pics 11-13 Are trimming the end of the Tallon Rod. You shouldn't have to do this if you use the stock F250 Booster Rod. On mine I had to shave a tiny bit off the end because it was too thick and triggering the brake lights. Grind a tiny bit at a time and test fit. Don't do to much or you will have a problem. Continue test fitting until you get it so that it doesn't trigger the brake lights when the pedal isn't depressed.

    Pic 14 is the Line you will use the Brass T to hook the drain line of the booster unit.


    Pic 15 is hose routing. The booster can be installed up or down. I chose to install mine with the canister on the outside for more room. The hoses only fit the Steering Pump and Steering Gear box one way but can be mixed up on the Booster. So pay attention to installation. Metric Flare Nut Wrenchs and Stubby Wrenchs are you friend during this part. I was able to do all of this without removing the Power Steering Pulley but it wasn't easy. Some people say it is alot easier to get the line on the power steering pump off by removing the pulley. After adjusting and bending the line a little bit it can be routed very nicely off the power steering pump. Same with the steering geer box.


    Upon re-installing the Fuse Box you will find the side box holds the Relay for the Fuel Pump will hit the Connector on the Master Cylinder. I simply flipped the bracket over and installed it from the top which moved it back a few inches and zip tied it in place. Problem fixed. I will revisit it at a later time if I figure out a nicer way to hold it in place.


    All of the other pics are of how I routed the hoses in my truck. Properly routed the hoses fit very well. It just takes some time and patience as you shift them to get best routing. Also the power steering lines will not be locked in place when tightened. They can turn some once tightened. I was a little worried about that at first but no leaks so far and it has been a few weeks now. Refill the system and then start the truck. Its gonna make some horrible noises as it purges the air out of the lines. I spent about 10 minutes turning the wheels back and forth to get as much air out as possible. Still had a bit of noise but after a few days it went away. You will also notice some kick back in the brake pedal at first that will go away also as the lines purge that air.


    So far the only drawback I noticed is it is a little harder to turn the wheel setting at idle. But IMO totally worth the upgrade. Our Brakes are marginal IMO for such a heavy truck. Anybody who has had to do and emergency stop will agree they should be upgraded some. The brakes bite alot harder now when the pedal is pressed. This really add even more bite to my SSBC Big Brake Kit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mdan575; 03-17-2013 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Refining

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Name: Mat

    mdan575's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SE Richmond
    Posts
    340
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    More pics
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Time For More Mods!
    Name: Kevin

    kevingib's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Palm Harbor, FL
    Posts
    212
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Do you use a line lock? Any concern about the added pressure with the lock on if so?



    Purchased June 2008 - Daily Driver
    Tuned by SCT Advantage III
    440 RWHP 536 Torque
    Sig by oldtimer

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Name: Mat

    mdan575's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SE Richmond
    Posts
    340
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    I don't have a line lock but the guys I know who have done it with a line lock said it actually took care of an issue. One of those mods I will do at some point in the future. Most told me to get good pressure they had to pump the brakes a few times for it to hold well. With the Hydraboost they said pump once and done.

  5. #5
    Time For More Mods!
    Name: Kevin

    kevingib's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Palm Harbor, FL
    Posts
    212
    Like
    0
    Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Cool, I was thinking of the line pressure created by moving up to 2000 psi and then forcing it all to one end of the truck by cutting off the flow.

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Name: Keith

    3653 Owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Hinesville Ga
    Posts
    558
    Like
    7
    Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
    IMG_20160614_195225114.jpg] Here's a picture of the standard F250 hydroboost pedal rod and the adjustable Tallen Hydraulics one. I just got the Tallen yesterday, so anxious to do the swap, what do you guys recommend for power steering fluid?
    Last edited by 3653 Owner; 07-09-2016 at 12:10 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •