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Thread: Looking at 2007 Harley F-250. Any input?

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    Looking at 2007 Harley F-250. Any input?

    Hello all,
    Its been awhile since I have posted but good to see the info is still flowing around here. I am looking at trading up my 2002 DSG Harley for a 2007 Harley F-250. I have been reading all the horror stories about the 6.0L in the F-250s. I dont plan on modding it up (too much) and trying to break records with it or anything. I will most likely go with everyones recommendation on here as far as minor mods. Here is the VIN for the truck:

    1FTSW21P57EB18170

    It is sitting at 37,XXX miles and they are asking $29,999. Hoping I can pull in about 10k for my 03 in as trade, what do you think is a reasonable price to pay? Is it worth getting the 07 or just wait a couple years till the 08 gets cheaper? I am looking to upgrade so I can haul my 8.5'x20' enclosed carrier around. I used the 03 and it got about 6.5 miles to the gallon. I wont be pulling it much (mostly helping friends move stuff and my 68' Mustang when its time to PCS again in about two years). Plus on a daily basis I am only getting about 13-14 with the 03 and I figure the 07 is going to be a little better on the gas too.

    Please let me know your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance for everything!

    Semper Fi,
    Kris

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    dragginNCrds
    Name: Will

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    the 07 6.0s are the best 6.0s out there.. i wouldnt have any reservations with it.. esp at 37k.. thats light mileage for a 07 in myopinion but alot of these trucks have low mileage.. as far as the 08.. i would stay far far away from the 6.4s they are HORRIBLE... the 07 would be your best bet.. but i wouldnt pay more than say 25-26 k for it.. i dont see 30k nowhere.. but if you get a 6.0l you will be just fine.. i drive one everyday for work and love it..

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    97Snake...I have two HD's. One is a 2003 Shamu, the other is an '07 Powerstroke Superduty F250. Wedgewood Blue with black flames. The 6.0 Stroke has about 94K on it now and when we camp, it pulls a 13,500lb travel trailer with no reservations. It is stock, no tune, or hardware, no failures. It currently gets around 16 or so, combined town/hwy mileage. Strong motor, have heard the trannies will not handle a ton of mods, however not sure I am going to do much to mine...so...We paid $22k for ours with 55,000 miles on it in 2010. Its been great. To date, no check engine lights, and no failures. Good luck with what ever you choose.

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    I had an 05 with the 6.0 and lost the EGR cooler once, but that was it. Just keep an eye on the exhaust and antifreeze levels and you should be fine.

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    dragginNCrds
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    people start having troubles with the 6.0s when they start adding tunes an power adders and trying to turn up the boost.. they are not built for that.. if you keep it stock with maybe a small programmer you will be fine.. my dad has a 07 with 65k on it and hasnt had the first issue.. and i drive a 06 F550 for work with the 6.0 that has 212k on it and only thing thats happened is a turbo had to be replaced and the EGR cooler had to be replaced.. but its a rollback thats ran hard day end and day out.. we beat the piss out them trucks.. but they still hold up.. so anywhere is the 06-07 range you will be fine.. unless you want to go ahead and step up to the 2012s

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    Oilfield Trash
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    Ah hem...

    Quick and dirty 6.0 knowledge...

    The problems all start with the wrong coolant. Ford decided to use their standard Ford Gold coolant in them. International, who designed the engine does not. They use a silicate free coolant, unlike the Ford Gold. What happens, is when the coolant is circulated through the EGR cooler, those hot exhaust gases, which under boost and especially pulling a trailer, can get over 1500 degrees in a diesel, superheated that coolant to where the silicates "fall out" and become a nasty gel like, substance. On their next pass around the cooling system, they go through the oil cooler, which has a bunch of little bitty tiny passageways, and over time, they clog it up. Once the oil cooler starts clogging, it restricts flow to the EGR cooler, leaving that coolant in there for even longer, allowing more silicates to "fall out", thus compounding the problem. Eventually, the coolant is moving so slow through the EGR cooler, it has time to begin to boil, and the EGR cooler ruptures, dumping coolant into the engine. When water/coolant enters the cylinder, combustion pressures skyrocket, stock TTY head bolts stretch under the pressure, and boom, blown head gaskets.

    That's where 6.0's get their huge bad rap concerning EGR coolers, and "weak" head bolts and head gaskets.

    Solution? Run a silicate free coolant! But of course, 90% of the used 6.0's out there, don't have that special coolant, and already have at least somewhat partially clogged oil coolers.

    My 6.0 was one of such trucks. I bought it from a fellow Lightning owner, it had already blown its cooler and gaskets before, and he had it repaired by Ford under warranty, but knew the tech, and took him a set of ARP head studs and a BPD (BulletProofDiesel) EGR cooler, which are much tougher, and one hasn't ruptured to date. But yet, Ford still put that damn Gold coolant in it again. Fixed the symptoms, not the problem.

    The test goes, get the truck up to temp, and go find a flat stretch of freeway, and cruise down it between 55-70 mph. Look at the delta (difference) in coolant temp and oil temp. If more than 15*, the oil cooler is considered clogged and needs replacing according to Ford. When I bought my 6.0, my delta was around 17*. Not horrible, up to 35* has been reported, but more than I wanted.

    So, I flushed the cooling system with distilled water, poured some Fleetguard Restore in it (fantastic for dislodging silicates) ran on the highway for an hour, then flushed again with distilled water. Pulled it apart, flushed the ever living **** out of the cooling system forwards and backwards (enema lol) replaced my oil cooler with a brand new OEM unit, reassembled, flushed AGAIN with distilled water, then added CAT EC-1 silicate free coolant. Measured EOT/ECT delta was now 3*. Fantastic!!! Fast forward another 40k miles, with a programmer, about 1/3 of which towing 7000# or more, and my delta is STILL, 3*. Want extra insurance after that? Add a coolant filter.


    Whew, the other little 6.0 issues are minor comparatively.

    The injectors like fuel pressure, if they don't have it, the truck starts eating em like candy. Simply, change your fuel filters. I change BOTH of mine every oil change, which I over do at 5k miles on full synthetic. Filters are cheap, 6.0 injectors aren't. Additionally, there's an updated fuel pressure regulator rebuild kit from Ford that costs like $12. Beefier "blue" spring that won't wear out over time causing low fuel pressure like the stock one. Takes like 10 min to rebuild the regulator, especially easy to do while you're changing the oil cooler.

    Stock HPOP (high pressure oil pump) fittings and o-rings wear out over time and leak, creating a no hot start, or no start period condition, and low power when it does run. Ford also makes an updated kit for this, also replace while doing the oil cooler. Not very expensive. I didn't, bit me in the *** two months later. Retrospect huh?

    The turbos are variable vain, they like to show that off, let them. Don't baby it all the time, they're liable to get stuck in that one position. Let em work and move, go ahead and mash the skinny pedal getting on that on ramp, your turbo will thank you.








    Cliff Notes:

    Run the right coolant in an unclogged oil cooler.
    Keep the fuel pressure up and clean for happy injectors.
    Floor it often to keep a happy turbo.

    Happy 6.0!

    I love mine. With DRW, Tow Boss package (4.30 gears and Dana 80 rear), and of couse being a King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, its a tows like a friggin champ!

    Don't be afraid of a 6.0, they're great motors, if maintained properly, which oddly enough is not how Ford would have you do it. Doesn't matter if they're bone stock, or chipped out and modded, those same problems apply to em all. If you wanna get one, and it hasn't been "bulletproofed" already, just set aside about 1k if you can do your own work, or about 4k if you can't, so you can either fix it before it breaks, and it will if left 100% stock, or you're ready for when it does.
    Last edited by tbonemcniel; 07-23-2013 at 10:23 PM.

  8. #8
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    cayman150's Avatar
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    Great explanation.

    Sounds like Bo knows!

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    take a loan through a credit union and youll be able to get a 4 year 50k warranty.... doesnt matter on the miles to have problem.. my gf bought a 06 brand new and 1200 miles blew the head gaskets... mine blew both at 65k.... i dropped it off at a diesel shop and had them do the motor over.. warranty cover almost allll of it.. just put headstuds in it right away and get a sct tuner... my custom tuned makes the truck run better then stock by far.. it shifts and drives sooo much smoother then stock.. if you do a lot of towing looking into the ficm tuner also.. get gets rid of the turbo lag pretty good.... towing around 7k at 75 i can get 16-17mpg and thats lifted 6 with 37 mt's.. i bought my truck in va beach so im sure its clean!!!!!!!!


    deff get a after market warr its well worth the 2100....

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