Merlin.....I need some tips!

[Merlin]

Okay, new set of questions! lol

1.) Any link for the best place to get glare polish, or just right from the source?

I get it from the source GLARE Professional Polish. If you can get a "better deal" on the same product got for it.

2.) Only get the Glare Polish, not one of their more aggressive products too?

Glare Pro Polish is all I use. I use it for "filling" minor scratches like you are describing. (NOTE: I have tried all the other products)

3.) Will really fill the deeper scratches? Since I can't get good pics right now, let me try to describe these marks I'm talking about if it helps. These ones you can't feel with a fingernail, so it appears it's just in the clear, the paint feels smooth as glass, but you can just see the marks in the paint. It looks like the truck was parked next to a bush or something for quite some time and the branches rubbed against the paint. It used to be dull, but after the first round of detailing all the dull is gone, it's reflective and shiny, but those deeper marks are still there from where the branches probably rubbed.

I HAVE used GPP to "fill" MANY times. The really good part is that the scratches are gone and they stay gone. I't not always 100% but it's pretty darn close.

4.) If I get the glare polish, where does it fall into my recipe? D300 w/ red MF, Meg UP with black MF, Meg UW with tan foam,......where does the GPP fall into the sequence, or does it replace the 2nd step? Which pad do I use with it?

On the problem areas I'd use GPP instead. I've used it for small scratch "touch ups" as well.
You could do the MF cutting disc with D300. If that does not get 'em all then I'd use GPP.
Once it's polished with GPP you could follow it with OP, UW

5.) In addition to the glare polish, if I did want to add 1 step prior to D300 with red MF for deeper cutting action, what would that combo be? I'll try the glare first, but I wouldn't mind having 1 more step as backup in the detailing arsenal lol.

For a more aggressive cut and a very good finish I'd suggest Megs M101 with a foam cutting pad or microfiber disc.
To "fill" (small fine scratches etc.) I use Glare Pro Polish. GPP is not a glaze. The scratches are gone & stay gone.
Be sure the paint is clean before using GPP. Strip all wax/LSP. Make sure all polish and polishing oils are removed.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You're welcome.

[AB_329]

Okay Merlin,

I did the front fender and the tailgate today with your recommended combo and man oh man 100x's improvement! I moved onto the drivers door and there's some deeper marks in the paint that needs a bit more aggressive first step to knock 'em out. It's not bad right now, but the front fender is practically mint now, so the door with some marks is bugging me lol.

I did D300 with the red MF pad, then Meg UP with the black MF pad, then Meg UW with my tan foam pad. The drivers door I just did the first step and didn't bother going further since it needs a stronger 1st step than the D300 with the red MF pad.

So recommendations? A more aggressive product with the red MF pad? Or a more aggressive pad with the D300? Combo of the two? I still need to order that LC pad assortment you recommended so if I need to get a new product I can get it at the same time.

Oh and one more question, what's the best way to clean the MF pads? The compressed air worked great for keeping them from loading up and matting down, but anything special beyond that for cleaning?

Okay and I lied, one more question, recommendation for MF towel source? I'm getting low on good ones, probably due for ordering some new ones.

I tried to get some pics of the differences but the cell couldn't capture it. Wasn't sure where the wife's DSLR camera was, but I'll try to at least get some before/after pics with that on one of the other panels to at least make this thread a bit more interesting for other readers lol.

Pics or it didn't happen!! lol

[Harley#356]

Ordering up some GPP now, and some LC pads. Maybe that new "clay towel" from your other thread too.

One more question, the GPP, what pad do you typically apply that with?

D300 w/ red MF pad to start, then should I do Meg UP with black MF pad, then GPP w/ ??? pad, then Meg UW.....or should the Meg UP come after the GPP? ....or remove it from that process??? I know I can tweak the process however, just trying to get a starting point so I"m not taking steps backwards if UP would remove GPP or anything.

[Merlin]

GPP is not a be all end all. I've used it as a LSP on super soft paint that scratched when you breathed on it. I've used it to permanently "fill" scratches from bushes. I've used it to permanently "fill" swirl marks in the hood etc. IMHO it's better to add (GPP) than remove (compound).

Now onto the "look" of GPP. After you clean your paint GPP goes on like a compound. I'd suggest a polishing pad. This process causes GPP to bond into the paint at a covalent level. The Glare folks suggest after the "compound" application then use GPP like a WOWO wax for the LSP.

You could use a Megs microfiber cutting disc or a Lake Country 5.5" white pads. I wouldn't use GPP with a LC orange pad. Be sure and clean with IPA, mineral spirits or while you're on the mf towel site I'd order some Eraser that's truly my favorite polish remover for paint inspection.

Tell 'em Merlin sent ya'.

IMHO The final "look" of GPP as a LSP is warm like a Carnauba wax rather bright and shiny. In most cases (depending on the paint/color etc.) I prefer something that has a brighter finish. So no, as an LSP it's not my favorite. For a correction/filler product it's way up there on my list.

Conclusion: When I look at a vehicle with a client before detailing they usually have scratches that they are aware of. They say "Yeah, I know about it I'm probably gonna have to get it painted". They are truly amazed when they return and it is gone. GPP is my permanent scratch filler.

[Harley#356]

Great info thanks Merlin!

So if my understanding is correct, I should use my compounds and polishes first before GPP so the compounds don't remove anything the GPP filled/corrected, then use my LSP of choice for the finishing pop?


I just figured out what the GALLON jug of Meg product I have is. It's M82. Do you know offhand if that falls more or less aggressive than D300? Since I have an entire gallon of it, I'd like to use it if it'll help. M82 w/ red MF pad, D300 w/ red MF pad, GPP w/ black MF pad or white LC pad, then UW or Z2 with gray LC pad. Thoughts?

[Merlin]

So if my understanding is correct, I should use my compounds and polishes first before GPP so the compounds don't remove anything the GPP filled/corrected, then use my LSP of choice for the finishing pop?


I just figured out what the GALLON jug of Meg product I have is. It's M82. Do you know offhand if that falls more or less aggressive than D300? Since I have an entire gallon of it, I'd like to use it if it'll help. M82 w/ red MF pad, D300 w/ red MF pad, GPP w/ black MF pad or white LC pad, then UW or Z2 with gray LC pad. Thoughts?

Megs UP will add gloss...so maybe after GPP you could use UP. M82 is a fine polish. On a aggressive scale of 1 to 10 it is a three.

[Harley#356]

Another random question for you, as I'm trying to hit the $95 for free shipping on Autopia (unless you have a better discount code!), what's the best waterless wash product on their site?

My harley truck I never wash anymore. It's in the garage year round, it gets driven 300-500 miles a year, and always wiped down with QD either before I leave or after I get back. About the only time it gets "dirty" is after a day at the track. Not dirty enough for me to want to wash, but dirtier than I feel comfortable using just regular QD on. Usually just the rear fenders and tailgate from the burnout throwing stuff around. I've been using Meguiars Ultimate Waterless Wash and it works good, just figured I'd try something else if AUtopia offers it, and you recommend it.

[Merlin]

If you're talking about Autopia Car Care Products then my choice would be BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Waterless Wash

BTW - Today I detailed the wife's car. It looked like she drove down the side of some bushes on the passenger side.
The trusty PC a Megs microfiber cutting disc and GPP and the scratches are all gone. I can post pics if you'd like.

[Merlin]

I've used 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish (AKA Ultrafina) and Menzerna PO85rd for years.
I just used the CarPro Reflect: High Gloss Finishing Polish and all I can say is…AWESOME!!!
It blew me away. My wife (who does NOT have a discerning eye) noticed a big difference.
If you have been on the fence about a finishing polish Reflect delivers extreme high gloss.

It's a brand new product...The gloss is exciting!...I want to do a review.
IMHO - This one is a game changer. It leaves the other two in the dirt.
Half the price & IMHO a much higher level of gloss. Did I mention easy?

"Reflect removes light swirls, holograms, and compound haze while producing a
reflective extremely high gloss mirror finish in its place. Best of all Reflect is not
oily and does not contain durable fillers that interfere with your true results."

• Produces an extremely reflective and glossy finish
• Wipes off like a dream
• Diminishing abrasives and unique nanotech materials
• No durable fillers, No silicones, No waxes, No polymers, and No Teflon
• No dusting
• Excellent with both Rotary & Dual Action
• Removes fine swirls from coatings with appropriate pad
• Great value!

[Harley#356]

Ah cool I use BFWD and BFMS on the HD so the BF waterless wash will go right in the mix!

Too bad I already ordered from CarPro this morning, I would have added that Reflect into my order.

Did a little more work on the L today, only had about half hour so I just did the hood and passenger front fender. D300 with the red MF pad and it helped a lot. I'd say 70% of the swirls and marks came right out. THere's still about 30% of swirls and marks left though. Hopefully the GPP will take care of them?

The frustrating part was then I hit the fender with Meg UP and the white MF pad and it dulled it up from the D300 with red MF pad. Is it because I didn't wash the MF pads from last time? I just put them in a bag so they were still damp with product from a few days ago, and I cleaned it with compressed air before I started. I was pissed the less aggressive product and pad combo took it a step backwards so I quit for the day lol.

[Merlin]

Did a little more work on the L today, only had about half hour so I just did the hood and passenger front fender. D300 with the red MF pad and it helped a lot. I'd say 70% of the swirls and marks came right out. There's still about 30% of swirls and marks left though. Hopefully the GPP will take care of them?

The frustrating part was then I hit the fender with Meg UP and the white MF pad and it dulled it up from the D300 with red MF pad. Is it because I didn't wash the MF pads from last time? I just put them in a bag so they were still damp with product from a few days ago, and I cleaned it with compressed air before I started. I was pissed the less aggressive product and pad combo took it a step backwards so I quit for the day lol.

Here's a couple of thoughts.

First, D300 and UC are not the most aggressive products for correction. D300, UC and UP all have a substantial amount of polishing oils in them. After you do D300 or UC you should do an inspection wipe down. This can be done with an IPA mix, mineral spirits or my favorite Eraser. This removes the polish and polishing oils so you can do a proper inspection of the paint. After a good wipe down inspection cleaning you may find the paint looks dull. This is because the oils and fillers have been cleaned off and removed.

Second, Always work clean! Clean the mf disc (on-the-fly) using compressed air or the bug sponge method. I do this after each 24" x 24" section. When you are done wash your mf discs so they are "like new" clean. I use a a Universal Pad washer or little Dawn and the kitchen sink. Always lay all pads face down on a towel to dry. This keeps the water from draining down to the Velcro section.

Good quality mf towels are a must. I have had a few recent experiences with "good" mf quality towels that actually scratched the paint when removing polish for inspection. See Thread.

I found the orange BOA (5 Pack) Super Soft Plush Microfiber Towels did not cause scratches. I like the BOA's, the yellow fellow and the crazy pile. Hopefully you will too. Let me know your thoughts when you use them.

Third, D300 does leave a good finish but I would not say it is LSP ready. UP should add clarity after D300. My suggestion is to switch to a softer pad for the UP and see if that helps. Keep the foam pad clean after each 24" x 24" section with a Foam Pad Conditioning Brush. Keep the pad clean! This is even more important when using products like M101.

Give the black mf disc a try. I have found sometimes when using GPP to "fill" swirls I get better results with a LC black pads than I do with the LC orange pad. You're results may vary as all paints are different.

Note: I don't use a IPA/inspection wipe down with GPP. GPP is not a traditional polish. GPP is designed to be polished into the paint so it can bond into the paint. I use a dry BOA to wipe off any excess if there is any. I believe an inspection wipe down (IPA/ms/Eraser) may remove GPP which is counter productive.

[Merlin]

Here's another tip...

Microfiber care:
When caring for microfiber towels there are a few simple rules to live by. Microfiber towels should only be washed with other microfiber towels. If you wash with other types of fabrics like cotton, etc, the microfiber will retain lint from those fabrics. NEVER use fabric softeners or dryer sheets. When drying either hang dry or dry on a very low heat cycle and never leave them in the dryer long enough to heat up. A dry microfiber that is heated to a certain point melts and becomes a danger to paint. Rinsing your new towels in the washer is always a good habit but also be aware that some colors may bleed onto others if you mix colors during that first wash cycle. After use microfiber should be stored, washed, and kept separate according to their task. In other words you would never use a wheel towel and then mix it with your paint towel. Mixing wax and sealant towels with glass and drying towels are a good way to remove absorbency from or cause streaking with your drying towels. Interior or doorjamb towels will collect sand and particles you would never want in your paint buffing towels so keep those separate as well.

[Harley#356]

Thanks for the advice Merlin!

I did order some Eraser, along with close to $300 in other detailing supplies lol. This is a sickness!!! I also ordered some D301 just to see how it compliments the D300. And I ordered a bottle of M105.

I'll have to start washing my pads because that's my biggest lazy point. I always just label the pads and use them for the same product and never wash them. I always clean them with a brush or compressed air though.

I ordered a bunch of those BOA towels too. The individual ones are actually cheaper than that 5 pack right now so I ordered 6 or 7 along with a few of the other blue ones.

I'm taking a break on the detailing the truck till the new supplies arrive. Then I can see truly how the paint looks after D300 when I hit it with some eraser, and maybe hit it with a yellow pad and Meg UP, then GPP?

How do the mf pads fall into the aggressiveness chart with the LC foam pads?

[Merlin]

Thanks for the advice Merlin!

. And I ordered a bottle of M105.

I'll have to start washing my pads because that's my biggest lazy point.

I'm taking a break on the detailing the truck till the new supplies arrive.

Then I can see truly how the paint looks after D300 when I hit it with some eraser, and maybe hit it with a yellow pad and Meg UP, then GPP?

How do the mf pads fall into the aggressiveness chart with the LC foam pads?

My Thoughts...

* Don't even open the bottle of M105...send it back and exchange it for M101.
...This is important! You'll be glad you did! Sorry about that I missed that one.

* Use the Foam Pad Conditioning Brush to clean the foam pad on-the-fly between each section.

* I use a Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad on-the-fly method to clean the mf discs between sections.
...Sometimes more often if needed. check the mf disc. If the fibers are flattened clean the disc.
...Cleaning the microfiber discs with compressed air is the preferred method. The bug sponge works.

* Some folks put their pads in the washing machine. For only a few I use Dawn & the kitchen sink.

* D300 is less aggressive than M101. Yellow pad? What yellow pad? Whose yellow pad?

* The Megs MF cutting disc (I use the 5" size) is more aggressive than LC orange.
...I've tried the Lake Country Yellow cutting pad & I did not care for that pad at all.

* Megs M101 and and CarPro Reflect is a killer 1-2 punch correct and gloss combo!

[Merlin]

I also ordered some D301 just to see how it compliments the D300. And I ordered a bottle of M105.

D301 is a finer polish mixed with some wax/sealant. The original design of the two mf pads and the D300/D301 combo was a 1-2 punch for production shops.
The D301 polish is good (and full of oils) and IMHO there are a lot better LSP's on the market than the ones "built-in" to D301. CarPro Reflect comes to mind.
I will admit that both D300 and D301 both smell real nice.

As for the bottle of M105 you ordered..Don't open it..Send it back and exchange it for Megs M101.
M101 = $50 and M105 = $25. M101 is well worth the difference. I'd buy a gallon of M101 if I could.
If you want to "try" Megs M105 then just get a small 8oz bottle $10.99. I cuts good but it's brutal.

At this point, if I only had two polishing products on my shelf it would be M101 and Carpro Reflect.