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Thread: adding boost

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Name: Tom

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    adding boost

    This is not my first 5.4 SC motor in a F150. Actually this would be my third. My question is, with a factory block can you add boost without blowing it up. Tuning is a big issue yes and I understand that. But my first 5.4 SC motor had a 6lb lower, an SCT tune, an intake, catback, and the JLP traction bars. It was a kit that was installed by the previous owner. So on a cool night with a warmish motor at WOT i sent 2 rods through the block. Luckily on that particular vehicle I had an aftermarket warranty and a good friend that worked on a shop specializing in modular ford motors. I return that truck to stock and later totalled it. . I recently just bought the 2003 HD f150. I want it to go faster obviously, but I want to do it to where the damn thing is bullet proof. I bought the "HOW TO BUILD A FAST FORD" and the first thing about this motor says on a cool night with added boost and a few bolt ons that the pistons like to exit the motor on the right side. Reading forums and seeing what I saw when I blew up mine it seems to be a common thing. I don't want the fastest car. In my mind I am looking for numbers. 425-450 hp and a 1/4 mile time in the low 13's high 12's. Basically a truck to screw with all the CORVETTE idiots that show their **** off at Pheasant Run. Can I strengthen the stock block or am I looking at the JLP Long Block? I would like to keep as much of the truck stock as possible. Do I have to add boost to get to the numbers I want? Building a car based on good ole cams and bolt ons? Right now I am running an intake and a catback exhaust. Help me not blow up another one of these motors please
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  2. #2
    Mobbin around the NW
    Name: Derek

    SonicHD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Newberg, OR
    Liked 114 Times in 84 Posts
    With any increased boost, comes increased risk. You could upgrade the rods, they are the weak point. But unless you can do the work yourself, its not very cost effective, might as well just buy a JLP shortblock. You could up the boost and it could last forever, or you could blow it up 2 days later, its the risk we take with these trucks. Ive got a ported blower, with a 6lb lower and 2.8 upper pulleys; Dynoed 438hp/520tq at the wheels, and runs a 12.9 quarter. Pretty much what your looking for, but I know I can blow this b*tch any time I roll out of the driveway. I have a built block on an engine stand waiting.

  3. #3
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

    cayman150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Liked 51 Times in 44 Posts
    I agree with Sonic. Once you up the boost and want to play a little bit, it's a chance that you'll you'll join the motorsploder club.

    Just start saving for a JLP short block as you can probably resuse a lot of the other stock stuff.

    If something worse happens and you end up damaging heads and oil pan then you'll end up buying a complete long block.

    Personally I think the long block is the way to go up front as you'll more than likely get higher lift cams and ported heads which really add to the wake up part with the extra boost you can throw at it.

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

  4. #4
    Sport90's #1
    Name: Matthew

    oki916's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Tallahassee, Florida
    Liked 23 Times in 14 Posts
    The stock block is the cast iron block from Ford Racing...its a strong block but just like all blocks, if a rod breaks its like shooting an steel arrow into a metal plate...its going to crack, puncture, or break it.

    Depending upon your wallet, I would price out a few different options and go with what you can with what was said above, you can always blow it up no matter what you do to it:

    Option 1
    Do a shortblock build using your stock 5.4 cast iron block

    Option 2
    Do a longblock build using your stock 5.4 cast iron block

    Option 3
    Buy a shortblock from reputable company

    Option 4
    Buy a longblock from a reputable company

    Of course with all options you have to consider what additional supporting mods will you need...MAF, Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Etc...

    Personally, we did Option 2 but since I cracked my stock block I ordered a new 5.4 Cast Iron Block from Ford Racing...had it put together by Al Pappapito (Boss 330 Racing) & sent my stock heads off to Kris Starnes ( Did all supporting mods needed that I didn't already have and know have a truck that I drive to the track, run 11 passes that are 11.5-11.8, and then drive her home.

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