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  1. #16
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    Name: Jake

    Braker85's Avatar
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    Here we go again.....IATs are not any better with the boot than with a CAI.

    Email is fast..... Jake@3rdrowinnovations.com

  2. #17
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

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    it all depends what CAI you're talking about. most shouldn't have the "C" and should be HAI's for hot air intakes lol. No shroud, or a half azz bend piece of metal with no seals, as if a piece of metal that doesnt' seal against anything will stop hot engine air from being sucked in lol.

    any intake helps when you're moving. When you're sitting still is where the enclosed intakes show their advantage (or stock as it's also enclosed) as it draws cooler air from the fender or scoop instead of engine bay hot air. Once you're moving it's a moot point.

    Budget mod....K&N in stock airbox with a ram air duct hooked up.

    Best intake (IMO)....JLP ram air

    If it's between an open element filter and stock airbox with a K&N, go the 2nd route.

  3. #18
    Worlds Shiniest HD F-150!
    Name: ]\/[ike

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    ^ Agreed

    The JLP and JLP ram air both use the stock fender air well connection.

    The JLP ram air also has "cold air" scoops that tuck under the front bumper.

  4. #19
    Mobbin around the NW
    Name: Derek

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    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
    Here's a little sumpin' I thought I'd throw out there...http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/C...AirWARNING.pdf
    What Kenne went on to say was that the HD was "designed" with fender well intake to bring in cold "outside" air.
    The OEM "design" took hundreds of hours to design and redesign in order for the stock air box to work correctly.

    It's good reading and a intended just for a little food for thought and an alternate view point...please don't slam me.

    Here's a quote "WARNING: It's an accepted known fact that any engine makes more power on cold air than hot air.
    Use of this product negatively alters the "cool air" design of the stock OEM inlet system and instead inhales underhood
    "hot air." This device reduces air density (HP and torque), increases the engines tendency to knock/detonate/ping which
    can result in lost power and potential engine damage, especially with superchargers or turbos."
    This is true as well.

    Which is why I use the JLP box. With the ram-air scoop that goes underneath. With a tube connecting the fender side opening to the fender hole. And attached thin sheetmetal to the bottom of the JLP box, (which has holes all over it) to make a solid top. Now it only pulls air from the fender hole, and the scoop. True CAI

  5. #20
    World's Fastest Street HD
    Name: Josh

    Harley#356's Avatar
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    I did some testing a few years ago, watching IATs closely, and taped up the perforated lid to make it solid back to back with it untaped to leave it slightly vented, it actually made very little difference. Bulk of the air was still drawn through the fender and lower scoopopening, IATs were only a few degrees (1-3) higher with the lid open vs taped.

    If your at the track, definitely remove the lid totally. At WOT it does become a slight restriction only allowing air in through the 2 box openings and the vented lid. The lid wide open helps uncork it a tiny bit.

  6. #21
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

    cayman150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley#356 View Post
    I did some testing a few years ago, watching IATs closely, and taped up the perforated lid to make it solid back to back with it untaped to leave it slightly vented, it actually made very little difference. Bulk of the air was still drawn through the fender and lower scoopopening, IATs were only a few degrees (1-3) higher with the lid open vs taped.

    If your at the track, definitely remove the lid totally. At WOT it does become a slight restriction only allowing air in through the 2 box openings and the vented lid. The lid wide open helps uncork it a tiny bit.
    +1 another great forum tip.... guys, it's easier to listen to the ones who been there and done it successfully before instead of spending $ and trying a million other ideas that just don't work.

    Now I need to get the ambition to wrench on my truck again and get my JLP CAI fully installed!

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

  7. #22
    Registered User
    Name: Vann


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    We'll..( that's a deep subject) i just got my truck so haven't installed all of my mods yet.. But have or have ordered : custom tune from Jdm , dual electric fans hooked up with dual controllers , 4:56 rear end gears , removed the giant antenna and replace with a shorty, installing Bluetooth capabilities to work through factory sound system, going to replace plugs and flush cooling system .. That's not all, but I'm sure nobody wants to hear it! I love my truck

  8. #23
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    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    Great mods! You gotta start somewhere.

    Good luck and enjoy!

  9. #24
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    Name: Robert

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    I really just want something basic to start off with, then once I start learning more and more about parts I'll upgrade even more

  10. #25
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    Early on, I did that same basic RPM Outlet kit you listed except for the coil packs and injectors which are not needed yet.

    You can probably find a lot of that stuff used for less money.

    Maybe start with just a Cold Air Kit (CAI) for now which will let you hear the blower whine a bit more when you step on it.
    Most on here like the Johnny Lightning Performance (JLP) kit.

  11. #26
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    Thanks my dude 👌

  12. #27
    Mobbin around the NW
    Name: Derek

    SonicHD's Avatar
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    4.56 gears? You going to run 35's on that thing? Thats WAAAAY too much gear. For a stock block power level, I wouldnt go any more than 4.10's (which I have a set I could sell if anyone is interested). If you ever went built with a twin screw, than the factory 3.73 gears are perfect. With 4.56 gears, you'll be running near 3000 rpm's cruising on the freeway.

  13. #28
    *SOLD - but not forgotten
    Name: Chuck NHTOC #291

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    But with 4.56 gears, he'll get to the next stop light faster than anyone else!

  14. #29
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    He'll also see the red and blues faster too

  15. #30
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    Name: Vann


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    Quote Originally Posted by Braker85 View Post
    He'll also see the red and blues faster too
    I have a little pull in that department too....

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