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Thread: who is lowered??

  1. #31
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    I just did a 2-3 on mine with spindles up front and hangers and shackles on the rear. The front Scrubs pretty good. What are some of you guys doing to the trucks so it don't scrub. Are you all trimming the fender flares and rolling or what
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinkey61 View Post
    I just did a 2-3 on mine with spindles up front and hangers and shackles on the rear. The front Scrubs pretty good. What are some of you guys doing to the trucks so it don't scrub. Are you all trimming the fender flares and rolling or what
    Looks good! Yes we trim the flares. There are a few threads on here about that, the one I used was Trimmed the fender flares today,.. On the Truck

    The only thing I would say is instead of a Dremmel is that razor blade works very well, AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A STEADY HAND AND CAN CUT A STRAIGHT LINE. The only spots that the razor will not work very well are where the screw heads are, there's a lot of plastic to cut through.

    I found that with the ISO's removed I hadn't trimmed enough off the first time I cut the flares (with them in), so I used a razor to trim the little extra I needed to, and it was a much cleaner line, and faster to cut through by a ton!!

    Now most guys say that you don't need to roll your fenders, and really you don't, but after I trimmed my flares I still had some rubbing issues on the metal fender...I pulled the top bolt out that bolts into the inner fender, then wedged a medium pry bar against the tire to the inner edge of the fender and massaged it up about ⅛" around the top of the tire. You have to be careful though as the more you massage it the more it moves the flares on the outside of the fender. You don't need to replace that inner fender bolt either, as the rest of the inner fender bolts will hold it in place just fine, and that top one will just cut into your tire anyways.

    Anyways I still rub some if I am not careful, you just have to go slow in the big bumps, humps and dips.

    BTW, I bet you don't have much travel left in that rear before you hit those bump stops now, huh?

    Sold my 2002 BLK #9638 to my wife's uncle, Sold my 2003 BLK #6682 to a nameless man local to me.

  3. #33
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    appreciate the help. haha... haven't tested the bumpstops yet. I didn't realize the 2-3 drop would have been that bad, but now I know. lol

  4. #34
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    what size tires you running/ it shouldn't rub at all with the factory 275 45 20 my truck the front tires tuck into the fender and I havezero issues even with the 22 inch reps on it.

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    Yeah I didn't start rubbing until I went 295 45 all around. It was a bad idea

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    I Dont want mine slammed, just level. I have the 3" shackles, one day I'll get them installed

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    Yeah idk, I run the stock 275/45 too, and rub the inner fender in real big bumps and if I sail off into a clover leaf fast enough I can hear it rubbin all the way around it.... I don't have a rear sway bar yet though... So not sure why I rub & other guys don't.
    Last edited by SoCal Waite; 08-27-2014 at 10:24 AM. Reason: auto correct got me again.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by SR81 View Post
    Yeah I didn't start rubbing until I went 295 45 all around. It was a bad idea
    No it wasn't a bad idea. Having had both 40 and 45 series, I'll take the better ride the 45 series give with a little rubbing any day. 40 series sucked IMO. Especially if I hit a pothole

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    I still have the rubbing issues with the 45s. but the ride is awesome so I will take a little rubbing any day than to go to a lower profile tire

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    Quote Originally Posted by tinkey61 View Post
    I just did a 2-3 on mine with spindles up front and hangers and shackles on the rear. The front Scrubs pretty good. What are some of you guys doing to the trucks so it don't scrub. Are you all trimming the fender flares and rolling or what
    this looks lower than 3" in the rear. what does it measure?

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrated12 View Post
    this looks lower than 3" in the rear. what does it measure?
    Hangers and shackles is a full 4 usually

  12. #42
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    I want to copy this ride height to a T, but a completely different wheel (something similar to stock wheels but with a DEEP concave), maybe go 13" wide in the rear instead of 12" in the pics below. At the moment I'm running the stock 20's with 2" rear hangers but it's not enough. Copy and paste from an email with him:

    http://www.luxury4play.com/american-...functions.html

    On my truck I had Belltech spindles up front with 2" bell tech lowering springs. Good for 3.5" drop front on KYB Mono shocks. Out back I had a Belltech 5" kit with bell tech c *notch on KYB mono shocks as well. I retained the OEM leaf springs.

  13. #43
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    I haven't measured it but this is the exact kit that I ordered from belltech

    http://www.belltech.com/products/lowering-kits-528.html

  14. #44
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    Nice kit, but I've already bought L-spec Bilstein shocks on all 4 corners, shock extenders and 2" shackles for the rear, so in my situation I just need to copy what the ADV.1 guy did for the other parts. I wish I didn't have to do a c-notch, but if that's what it takes, so be it.

  15. #45
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    You dont HAVE to C-notch it. Im lowered 5" without a C-notch, and it drives fine. It would make for a more comfortable ride though, and it wont bottom out only putting a few hundred pounds in the bed.

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