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Thread: Doing pulley Change #6

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    Nathan
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    Doing pulley Change #6

    Is there any thing I need to know about changing my crank pully I'm going to attempt it my self? Any advice step by step? I ordered the #6 kit from JLP. How to safely remove the stock pully and put the new one on. I would rather save money if possible

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    Word
    Name: Kevin

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    if you don't have a way to lock the crankshaft in place, using an impact gun will be the only way to get the stock lower pulley off.

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    Here is a how to Overdrive Crank Pulley Installation Lightning / Harley Davidson F-150 but your kit should come with instructions. Mine did from lfp, used a long breaker bar with a piece of pipe to break mine loose. Don't forget reverse thread!!!
    2002 HD F150 #5226 (366hp/471tq)Mods(LFP kit) 6lb Lower, SBTB, Boost Bypass, Oil Sep, Dual Idlers, TR6 Plugs, SCT X4, EGR & EVAP Delete, Volant CAI, Flow Master Exhaust, Hollowed Cats, Pillar Boost Gauge, 35% Front Tint, Smoked Headlights, Chrome Lower Grille, Altezza Taillights, Smoked 3rd Light, Brake Controller, Bug Deflector, Vent Visors, LineX Bedliner, 2" Drop Shackles, Traction Bars, Punisher VB, 4x4 Pan

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    Nathan
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    What's the best way to lock the crank shaft in place?

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    They sell a special strap that goes from one of the torque converter bolts to the inspection cover bolt.
    Without that you may be able to put a box end wrench on one of the torgue converter bolts and have the open end facing out so it can wedge itself against the bell house when you try and loosen the lower pulley.

    **EDIT** I see that post #3 also explains it too.

    http://www.nhtoc.com/vbforum/how-sec...lley-swap.html

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    Registered User
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    Quote Originally Posted by 210sRenegade View Post
    What's the best way to lock the crank shaft in place?
    The kit I bought from lfp came with the lock plate and instructions, but I also have done one on a lightning without the lock plate, just use a wrench as in my last post.

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    Changing the tune and plugs as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigd3077 View Post
    Changing the tune and plugs as well?
    Hope so.

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    Nathan
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    Already did plugs and got the tune installed on my sct. I'm having trouble with the tensioner I can't get it to loosen to take the belt off. Unless it takes you to torque it real hard but I can't get it to go

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    Registered User
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    There is an ear on the tensioner that you can break off to give you more travel. Just take a screwdriver and put it on the little tab and tap it with a hammer. It will break off giving you more room. I hope you did get the correct belt for the new 6lb pulley goodyear # (8pk1727/k080680).

  11. #11
    Nathan
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    I hope I got the right belt also because it was included when I bought the #6 from JLP

  12. #12
    Nathan
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    A little ear? Can you maybe take a pic of where? That would be awesome I'd appreciate it

  13. #13
    Nathan
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    Wow easier than I thought thanks miller it broke right off. Lot looser now

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