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Thread: Off Topic - Paint Correction on 2006 Saab 93 2.0T Convertible

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    thanks Mike, taking it all in...

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    thanks again Mike... appreciate it....

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    Merlin,

    Could I use BFWD over the CQuartz Finest that you did for me?
    I've only washed it off twice since then (no touch using foam gun and pressure washer with air dry) and used Quick Detailer once for a show.
    It's been in the garage the whole time so I wouldn't think that it needs another clay bar or nanoskin prep again first.

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cayman150 View Post
    Merlin,

    Could I use BFWD over the CQuartz Finest that you did for me?
    My short answer would be no.
    It don't believe it would be advantageous to the CQF finish.
    I would however, clean it, spray it and wipe it down with Reload.
    After CQuartz Finest that's all you need to do. Reset and Reload.

    I know, if you're like me you want to spend some time at least once a month loving applying an LSP.
    That was why I was hesitant to apply it to my truck. I like rubbing wax. Now, I just wash it, & apply Reload.
    I will admit I recently washed with the Reset Shampoo and I stood there and had fun with the water beads.

    On another note...Stay tuned...Rumour has it...
    If you really have a passion to do a Mr Miyagi Wax On, Wax Off (WOWO)...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    ...Wait till these guys hear my review on the Carpro ceramic-coat infused triple purified white Nuba I have been testing.

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    sounds interesting from Dr Oldz
    past:
    87 Mustang LX GT conv.
    95 Mustang GT auto, Cobra upper manifold, intake, pulleys, flowmasters, 10 years and still miss it lol

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    I've found that keeping m105 slightly wet works better, and creates no dust at all. I believe that's part of the KBM or 'kevin brown method' for using m105.

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    briefly went over the KB method and basically looks like we prep the surface with purified water after we start to see less product disappear.

    Do we prep the pad as well with a few "mists'' of purified water?..

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmf2004 View Post
    briefly went over the KB method and basically looks like we prep the surface with purified water after we start to see less product disappear.

    Do we prep the pad as well with a few "mists'' of purified water?..
    That is a small part of it. I personally do not mist the pads (although some folks do).
    A lot has to do with machine speed, pads, polish, downward pressure, arm speed etc.

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    Off Topic - Paint Correction on 2006 Saab 93 2.0T Convertible

    thanks Mike.

    I can tell you right now that I haven't perfected those techniques as of yet. I honestly only have used the PC about 6 times because I've always did everything by hand.

    just placed a order today on Detailed Image and bought 2 DA cutting pads, 2 DA finishing pads , DA compound , DA polish, waffle weave towel, and pad brush,

    I already have chemical guys cutting and finishing pads, jet seal, black light, V36, and other stuff in my arsenal lol.
    Last edited by tmf2004; 07-08-2014 at 07:24 PM. Reason: added more

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    I don't mist the pads, just the area I'm working to keep the m105 looking kind of like thin fat free milk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blind View Post
    I don't mist the pads, just the area I'm working to keep the m105 looking kind of like thin fat free milk.
    thanks... that what i'll do...

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    I'm just a bit south of you. If you'd like I'd be glad to instruct you in the fine art of using a DA.
    Let me know if you would like to come down and visit and we'll play "Let's make it shiny".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blind View Post
    I don't mist the pads, just the area I'm working to keep the m105 looking kind of like thin fat free milk.
    I hate the M105 splatter when trying to keep it wet enough to work with.

    It's a mess to clean up and it gets hard as a rock if you can't find everywhere it goes and let it dry too long.

    Have you had a chance to try the M101 yet?

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    no I haven't used up my m105.

    the only other cutting style compound I've used is chemical guys cut 1.0, that makes less of a mess and works about the same as m105 for me.

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