What's the process of that tpr?
What's the process of that tpr?
You could just swap to a Hydroboost setup and save money
Email is fast..... Jake@3rdrowinnovations.com
Lightning's have F250 brakes in the front. Others on here have said the gain is minimal. So if you are like tpr103 and got the parts cheap or free and can do the work yourself, then it might be worth it. Btw lightning wheel studs are smaller. Otherwise, invest in better pads and rotors than what the local parts store carries.
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Best rotors for the money are Napa golds, swap to hydro boost setup.
Just like what Al said. Although the only lightning studs that were smaller (12mm) were 99-00. Our trucks have 14mm studs just like the 01-04 lightnings.
Really simple to do. If you have ever changed brakes on any car. The fronts can be a bit trickier with the removal of the bearings. But not the end of the world. The caliper and brackets them selves are easy. 2 bolts hold the caliper to the bracket, and 2 bolts hold the bracket to the spindle. Then it's just a matter of swapping the brake line. The actual hardest part is bleeding the brakes. If you don't have a vacuum bleeder, then you need a friend to pump the peddle while you are at the bleeder valve opening and closing it. There should be a how to either on here or definately on google that shows how to bleed brakes. Any way you go on the brakes route you will need to know this.
My suggestion would be if you are going to replace calipers get a set of stainless steel braided lines. Stifflers has a really nice kit that replaces all 5 flexi lines and has a nice stainless rear hard line. Keep in mind that they are designed for the L and you will need to move the rear center flexi over to the drivers side (our trucks have it on the pass side). Other then that you may have to bend the hard line into place. it might need a slight tweak due to shipping and what not.
Ok I'll go hydroboost set up than. Does some one sell the conversion kit or have step by step instructions? Front and rear
The Hydratech kit is nice. Kinda pricey though. You can build one fairly inexpensive. I have one on the self with all the ss hoses and fittings. Have about $200 in it all. Search LR in the Gen 2 how to. I have all the fittings and hoses listed over there
Swapping to a hydro boost setup will be a large improvement. Especially when making more boost than stock, the vacuum powered brakes on these trucks don't work so hot after having no vacuum for a run up to speed, so you're relying on how well your vacuum check valve and reservoir and brake booster can retain vacuum during that period.
I run identical brakes on 2 mustangs but one is vacuum boosted brakes, and the other is hydro boost. The hydro boost car has a softer brake pedal and WAY harder initial bite, when running the same wheels, same tires, same pads, and same rotors, with the same calipers. (13" 2 piston front, 11.65" single piston rear)
I'm pretty happy with the hawk ceramic pads and rotorpro solid rotors all around on my truck with SS braided hoses, however the brake pedal is hard as a rock after getting up to speed. That means it's basically out of vacuum for the power assist!
I do not think any street driven one of these trucks would benefit from a rear brake upgrade at all. The rotors are already quite large thanks to the inner parking brake, adding more pistons won't do much, and the rear brakes are hardly used anyways. I can only see it causing a problem by making the rear ABS trigger earlier because of rear tire lock up.
Personally, my plans for the future will be hydroboost conversion with f250 parts, then wilwood 14" rotors and W6A 6 piston calipers with ceramic pads (ceramic = less brake dust to clean off your wheels )
That sounds good blind so upgrade the lines?
ss braided lines make very little difference.