Still not happy with mine, and i have no idea what fluid to run too much information !!!
Still not happy with mine, and i have no idea what fluid to run too much information !!!
What's the problem with yours?Originally Posted by BRIANV
low throttle still bangs into gear. and woodbine told me to run regular dexron so i drained my pan again and still bangs at low speed. Yes i disconnected battery and turned lights on to drain computer. And tried to get the computer to relearn, no tune
Interesting. Sorry to hear that Brian. It's been pretty dead on here lately but hopefully someone will chime in to help troubleshoot since I too am finally going to get mine and want to avoid any issues such as you're having.
JBA Coffee & Cars 06/12/2016
I wonder if you might have been shipped a Comp Version instead of the Street? I tried a Comp in my HD initially and it was unbearable at anything more than 1/4 throttle and downright alarming at WOT with the factory torque converter and no t-bars.
There you go Brian! TJ to the rescue. It's a possibility.
Hey TJ, know anything re the tranny fluid on post #90? Was hoping to discuss on Saturday but it looks like we may get rained out.
Brian - I will gladly swap you my FTVB valve body (the original one from back in the day that Chuck bought) for your Punisher.
I took the FTVB out of mine because I thought it was too soft. I am now running an A1 and it shifts much firmer, similar to what you describe yours doing. I like it this way frankly. The firmness varies, but I attribute that to 13yr old transmission technology. You can only do so much with it.
For what it is worth - I run the standard mercon III that was recommended by A1 and others.
Im gonna get a transmission shop check my pressures. if its in specs ill go from there. Does anybody know if there is a test port and what pressures should be? You know what else im thinking i changed the throttle body to a single plate wonder if the that has adjustments. on the throttle value SLOWBRA? is that the factory valve body you want to trade
[QUOTE=BRIANV;616638 SLOWBRA? is that the factory valve body you want to trade[/QUOTE]
No, it's FTVB. It's an aftermarket one Chuck got years ago. If you want something that shifts smoother than the Punisher but is better than the original this may be your ticket. Offer is there whenever.
Its funny to me all this talk about this valve body and no one has mentioned anything about long bars. talked to woodbine sent me to the actual guy who builds these valve bodies. He recommended stifflers long bars and if I didn't want to buy the long bars to send it back and he would tweak on it. Am I the only person whos having this issue
Long bars sure help firm up the rear end so it doesnt twist when shifting, making it less violent. I run them.
This video shows rear end movement with and without long bars
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QtFYe3hIQA
T-bars will affect shift feel and t-bars serve a purpose. Whether or not someone truly needs t-bars is a different story. The way t-bars prevent axle roll is beneficial across the board but they're aren't really necessary or worth the investment for many set ups for trucks that see little-to-no track use.
I have long bars on my Lightning where they're necessary. I intend to eventually put t-bars on my HD but right now they aren't critical. When I do put t-bars on the HD I plan to go with Cal-Tracs. That's a whole different topic of discussion. IMHO long bars are great, but for trucks that will still be used as trucks (i.e. for towing and hauling) long bars are less than the ideal choice of t-bar. JJ doesn't sell Cal-Tracs which explains why he recommended Stiffler's.
With that said, if I were buying long bars for my HD I would go with Stiffler's. I have JLP long bars on my Lightning because Stiffler's were not an option back in 2006.
I think you will be happy with the less firm valve body since you don't take your truck on the track.
Throttle jockey is spot on. I've recently removed my JLP long bars in an effort to diagnose a few noises. I can definitely tell a difference with and without them on. The video above certainly explains why. I use my truck as a truck, but at some point I will put the long bars back on as soon as I figure out what my issue is.
Don't throw more money at your truck right now if you haven't gotten the new valve body. Try that first and report back.
Race track or not, a lot of us tend to use the happy pedal at times on the street, and traction bars of some sort are a good thing to keep your rear end from wrapping up like the video shows. It will certainly extend Ujoint and pinion bearing life as well. For a street only truck, the Cal-Tracks TJ mentioned are more than enough.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
