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Thread: 4r100 auxiliary transmission filter and cooler

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    4r100 auxiliary transmission filter and cooler

    THINGS LEARNED:

    "Larger and/or finned pans don't offer ANY additional cooling improvements over the stock pans."
    From what I understand...
    Whether it's 4 quarts or 8 quarts it'll all heat up to the same temp.
    A tranny pan, whether aluminum or finned does not cool the fluid.
    Why? The ATF doesn't stay in pan long enough for it to be effective.

    What are your thoughts on a auxiliary transmission filter?

    From what I have discovered...

    "An auxiliary filter is a good idea.

    The (Perma-Cool branded kit below) filter uses a standard full-size Ford oil filter (3/4"-16 threads) to provide cheap and effective filtration.
    Additionally, people have reported significant (15-30°) temperature drops from just a remote filter."
    Perma-Cool Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kits 10678 About $50+


    The Statement:

    "Automatic transmissions have internal filters designed to capture only large particles. These filters are designed as a pickup to keep large particles from flowing through the transmission. These filters are on the suction side of the pump. Fine filtration in the pan is not an option for the transmission manufacturers due to the fact that transmission pumps should not be restricted. The only way to get fine filtration for a transmission is with an external transmission filter kit on the push side of the pump. The 4R100/E4OD and many other transmissions were never equipped with this type of external filter. The Allison in the Chevy and many medium duty and heavy duty trucks come equipped from the factory with an external transmission filter. This is not a new idea in transmission maintenance and protection."
    Some have questioned whether an external filter is a good idea. Consider this (from a filter kit seller):

    How it works:

    Our filter is on the "push" side of the pump. This location allows for a filter with increased efficiency -- or smaller micron rating. Normally, you have the dirty fluid in the pan. The OEM filter hopefully catches the really big particles before it enters the valves and pump. After running through the transmission, it leaves as "dirty" fluid. This fluid will have clutch dust and other impurities which are all normal in any automatic transmission. This dirty fluid would be recirculated back to the pan. With our kit you can catch dirty fluid BEFORE it makes back to the pan.

    Keeping the fluid clean, keeps your valve body clean which keeps your transmission shift quality at its highest.

    After installation of our external kit the filter in the pan now acts simply as a pickup for the pump and virtually never needs changed.

    . . . Our filters have a micron rating of 22 microns. That is plenty for any transmission. Pan filters have no real micron rating. Many are nothing but screens."

    "Question: What is the micron rating of the OEM unit and why is yours a 22 micron element?

    Answer: There isn't a rating on the OEM filter. If you had to rate it, according to Baldwin, it would be about 100 microns. It's basically a screen. 22 microns is smaller than the smallest clearance in the transmission. We could definitely put a smaller micron filter on the housing, but the result would be less oil actually filtered in each pass as more fluid would pass through the bypass port because of increased resistance to flow through the filter. Because the 22 micron element was small enough to keep the system clean and allow all the fluid to be filtered in a single pass, it was the perfect choice."
    A little NAPA research:

    Transmission filter:

    NAPA Gold 1622 is an actual transmission filter not an oil filter. it would definitely flow better than a regular oil filter because the mesh filter inside isn't woven as tight.

    NAPA 1622 (HP-1 cross reference) - 5.22" H x 3.7" OD, by-pass valve setting at 7-9 PSIG. Anti-drainback valve. > 10GPM
    Not even mentioning the external transmission filter is a LOT easier to change than the internal one.


    What are your thoughts on an transmission cooler?

    Need more cooling? The Ford Super Duty (F250) transmission cooler (XC3Z-7A095-CA)

  2. #2
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    Merlin I would talk to Chris garret at a1 transmission.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tpr103 View Post
    Merlin I would talk to Chris garret at a1 transmission.
    Agreed Chris (A1 transmission) and Paul (Punisher) are both excellent resources.

    What are your thoughts?

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    An auxiliary cooler is nice but probably only necessary if you are using the truck for towing or doing a lot of track passes frequently.

    If the truck is not your DD then even less reasons for it.

    I can't see the need for one for just normal DD or weekend jaunts for a half hour or so, especially on highways when it is just kept in one gear and not shifting much.

    The filter write-up about it being on the push side of the pump is very interesting though. Thanks.

    Mods=L&S Oil Sep, Blackwood trim & mirror caps, Navi ant' base, E-brake pedal, CAI, C&L Intake & Plenum, 95mm MAF tube, SBTB, 170 T-Stat, Predator+RWTD custom tune, 8# lower, PG Ti900.7 amp, JLA XR570-CXi & Stealthbox, FTVB, Finned Trans Pan, Line of Fire LED, J-Jent Grille, RotorPro Dimpled & Slotted rotors, LED taillights, chrome door strikes, billet locks & coat hangers, ChickenEars Engine Billet package #1&2+door sills, Metco billet aux idler bracket & pulleys, LFP E-Fan, Xenarc HID heads, clear corners, Roush HID fogs, Bedrug, L' 3rd, Kenwood DDX-7017 DVD+TV+Sirrius+RevCam, Lotek dual pillar pod with AutoMeter boost gauge & DynoJet WBC, fog switch mod, UPR billet window switches and door locks, FAST overlays, LFP 58" bars, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, DblG Panhard, Cervinis Cobra R hood, BFG T/A KDW 2 tires, Hawk Ceramic pads, MGP caliper covers.

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    You might find this interesting...

    Derale Automatic Transmission Filter Kits



    PRODUCT FEATURES

    Filter System Prevents Any Foreign Particles from Entering Valve Body or Other Internal Components, While Maintaining Fluid and Removing Any Varnish, Sludge or Contaminants

    * Doubles Transmission Life
    * Extends Time Between Fluid Changes
    * For All Automatic Transmissions

    * Standard Kit Includes: Aluminum Filter Mount, Derale Spin-On Transmission Filter, OEM-Spec Oil Hose, Brass Fittings, Stainless Steel Hose Clamps and All Necessary Hardware
    * Premium Kit Includes: All the Same Components as the Standard Kit Plus Electronic Temperature Gauge with Under Dash Mount, Sending Unit, Insulated Wire and Connectors
    * Derale Spin-On Transmission Filter Should be Changed Whenever Fluid is Changed or Transmission is Serviced

    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

    Derale Automatic Transmission Filter Kits are engineered to work in conjunction with the OEM transmission filter.

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    I found this at Advanced Auto Parts. $39.99



    Many transmission failures are caused by contamination.
    A remote transmission oil filter increases filtration efficiency.

    Includes permanent remote-adapter, spin-on filter and hardware, and is easily mounted on a firewall.

    Product Features:

    Increases Filtration Efficiency
    Includes Permanent Remote-Adapter
    Includes Spin On Filter
    Includes Hardware
    Sold as a kit

  7. #7
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    a bit more research...

    A Ford badged in-line filter...2w4p 7b155 bc



    Ford uses these little filters on most/all rebuilt tranny's and if something is suspected. There is a TSB on this issue and the filter is part of the rebuild kit.

    It is a great filter and has a by-pass pressure relief valve in it. The filter has a magnet in it as well so it is catching ferous metal particals on the magnet and the paper filter is catching the rest of the stuff.
    Last edited by Merlin; 06-11-2015 at 08:35 AM.

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    Huh that ford filter is interesting.

    I had Paul build my trans 6 years ago. He did say I should have a cooler. Jdm said it wasnt necessary.

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    Here's a little something I found

    WHEN SHOULD WE CHANGE THE FLUID?

    If you typically drive your classic cruiser on the weekends only, with an occasional highway run to a somewhat distant location for ‘car show duty’, then changing your transmission fluid about once every two years or 20,000 miles should be sufficient. However, if you drive your pride-and-joy more than a couple of times a week, or do a fair amount of highway driving, then changing your fluid once a year or about every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first, is your best bet. If you like to really ‘stick your foot in it’, or occasionally take your ride to the local ¼ mile strip, you are creating a lot of excess heat, and you should change your fluid about every 6,000 miles.

    WHAT IS THE BEST METHOD?

    For many years, the only way to change the transmission fluid was to remove the pan from the bottom of the transmission, which would allow about 40% of the entire amount of fluid from the transmission to be drained. Additionally, some vehicles had a drain plug on the torque converter allowing you to drain that also. Even so, the most that could typically ever be removed from a transmission was around 60% of the total transmission’s capacity. This left a lot of dirty, worn-out old transmission fluid in the transmission, but what else could be done?
    I recently did a flush and it removes substantially more old fluid that a typical remove the pan filter change...

    FINALLY! THE TRANSMISSION FLUSH ARRIVES!

    In the early-to-mid 90’s, transmission flush machines started to become widely available. Most of them simply hook-up in-line with the transmission cooling lines, and while the vehicle is idling, pumps brand new and clean transmission fluid into one side of the cooling line while the dirty, old and contaminated fluid is pumped out the other line. The beauty of this system is that since the engine, and therefore the transmission are operating during the flush, any debris or other contamination in the fluid is held in suspension in the fluid as it is being pumped out of the transmission. This is far more effective than when the fluid is drained out of the pan, for any debris and contamination that are present are just going to sit in the transmission and help to contaminate the new fluid as soon as it is put in. A phenomenon known as a ‘hypothermic barrier’ is created during the flush procedure which helps to make sure that the new fluid does not mix with the old fluid as it is being flushed. The laws of physics dictate that two fluids of identical chemical make-up cannot mix with each other until they are the same temperature.

    The new, clean room-temperature (70 degrees) transmission fluid being pumped into the transmission cannot mix with the old and dirty, hot (170+ degrees) transmission fluid being pumped out. This makes for an amazingly effective flush. And since all the old fluid in the entire system is being replaced with fresh new fluid, it is far more effective than simply changing 50 or 60% of the fluid. A 100% transmission fluid flush is definitely the most effective method for changing your transmission fluid.
    I've heard of folks that had tranny particulate clog the lines after a flush and a few days later the tranny went boom.

    WHAT ABOUT THE TRANSMISSION FILTER?

    Logic would seem to dictate that if there is a removable filter in the transmission that it should be replaced periodically. In actuality, this is not always the case. When most people think of a transmission filter, they apply the same logic as they do towards an oil filter. The difference between the operational characteristics of a transmission filter and an oil filter are so different that they cannot be compared. An oil filter is considered to be a ‘full-flow’ filter, meaning that the entire amount of your engine’s motor oil passes through the filter on each pass through the oil pump. The oil filter will trap any particle of about 10-15 microns or larger, which is roughly the thickness of a human hair. Eventually, the filter will become so filled with particulate matter that it can become too restrictive, causing it to go into ‘by-pass’ mode, which simply allows unfiltered oil to circulate through your engine. Obviously then, frequent oil and filter changes are necessary.

    In contrast to that, a typical transmission filter is NOT a full flow filter. Only a small portion of the transmission fluid passes through the filter as it makes its way through the transmission. In fact, most of the fluid flows around the filter and up into the valve body. The idea is that eventually, most of the fluid will find its way into the filter, and any particulate matter that may be ‘swimming’ around in there will be held in the filter. When the engine is turned off, all of the transmission fluid that is being held up inside the valve body and filter will drain back into the transmission pan. This all has somewhat of a ‘backwashing’ effect on the filter, as a lot of the debris in the filter will be forced down into the pan. Many manufacturers put a magnet in the bottom of the transmission pan to collect and hold these metallic-filings and debris, to keep them from traveling through the transmission. This design is what allows manufacturers to make claims of anywhere from 50,000 miles for a filter change recommendation, all the way up to 100,000 miles.

    The best recommendation for a classic muscle-car owner is to flush the transmission as often as described above, and to change the transmission filter about every 30,000 miles.
    This is what I was discussing above.
    I heard the FORD Part# 2W4P 7B155 BC is a badged Magna-Fine in-line filter...

    AUXILIARY TRANSMISSION FILTERS

    There are externally mounted, auxiliary transmission filters available that do an exceptional job of giving an automatic transmission that extra ‘edge’ when it comes to long life.

    ‘Fluid-dyne’ corporation offers it’s ‘Magna-Fine’ in-line full flow transmission filters. Mounted in-line on one of the transmission cooling lines, the ‘magna-fine’ filters work much the same as a typical in-line fuel filter. In addition, these particular filters have a built in ‘catch magnet’ to trap any metal filings or wear debris. Simply change this external filter every year or two, and you will add years of life to your ‘slush-box’.
    What are your thoughts?
    Last edited by Merlin; 06-11-2015 at 08:29 AM.

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    I'd say it's deffinately worth a try. What could it hurt really? Looks to be a much easier, cleaner way then the auxiliary filter kits.

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    Ford part # for the Kit: 2W4Z-7B155-CA or for the filter alone: 2W4P-7B155-BA.



    It may have been superseded by Ford Part # 2W4Z-7B155-G
    Last edited by Merlin; 07-14-2017 at 03:42 PM.

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    I just picked up a in-line kit 2W4Z-7B155-G off fleaBay for $25. I'll let you know my thoughts when it's done.
    The in-line kit is less money than the ones with a mount. The mount type looks a slight bit easier to change.

    What are your thoughts on a Auxiliary Transmission Filter?

    How do you feel about a transmission flush vs. dropping/draining the pan and replacing the internal filter?
    Last edited by Merlin; 06-11-2015 at 09:03 AM.

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    I think the inline is the way to go with less fuss and no muss. That looks to be another good mod to include with the VB.

    Also I would think the tranny flush done by the professionals with the correct machine would be the way to go too.

    Us poor boys who just lied on their back and did the driveway install are definitely missing out on that!

  14. #14
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    You can easily replace the Magnefine filter every 10K for about $16. http://magnefinefilters.com

    IMPORTANT: BEFORE doing a transmission flush REMOVE the auxiliary in-line filter. Replace after flush.

    The Ford OEM in-line Auxiliary Transmission Filter is a great filter and has a by-pass pressure relief valve in it.
    After installation of the Auxiliary Transmission Filter, the filter in the pan now just acts as a pickup for the pump and doesn't needs changed.
    The Ford filter has a magnet in it as well so it's catching ferrous metal particles on the magnet and the paper filter is catching the rest of the stuff.

  15. #15
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    Recent news...

    I went to my local Ford $tealership and asked 'em to install it. Here's what I got...
    The mechanic that came to see me was VERY knowledgable and knew the particular part well.
    He stated that "in the past" they used them when there was a catastrophic transmission failure.
    This was to insure that any metal debris etc. was captured and kept from flowing though the tranny.
    There was a Service Bulletin to instruct them on the part #, install etc. for install on rebuilt transmissions.

    What they found is that there was a problem with the seal on the external transmission filter and they leaked.

    Thus causing a catastrophic transmission failure. There was another Service Bulletin saying do NOT use this part.
    That being said...I did not choose to have it installed. I thought I'd pass this along if you were contemplating doing it.
    Last edited by Merlin; 07-14-2017 at 03:43 PM.

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