I know its hot and i also know my truck is black with black leather interior. But what could i do about the A/C its cool but just comfortable cold im still sweating. I bought a can of ac pro stuff it took a little shot but didnt make a difference any ideas i will take THANKS!
I can't even turn mine on high. It will freeze me out. Not that helps you at all. I recommend tinting your windows.
#8022 L&S oil separator, color matched tailgate handle and license plate bulb covers . Fog light mod ,Venom mod , JLP CAI and JLP rear shackles for a 3" drop out back. More to come.......SOLD ...........no more to come.
Mine will get really cold as well so long as I'm on the highway. If I sit in traffic alot, it will tend to blow a little less cold but it works pretty well considering I live in Orlando. If yours isn't cooling well enough, you might check that your blend door is functioning properly as if it's not, it might allow hot air to mix with your AC. You might also check the fan clutch, if it's getting worn it won't spin the fan as fast and you'll get less cooling, especially when idling or in stop & go traffic. Finally, I had a Jeep that the actual clutch on the AC compressor wore out on and was slipping and intermittently catching, so the AC was weak. I replaced the clutch and all was well again, the Jeep had about 100K on it and the AC was used for most of those miles. Other less likely things you probably already know: Keep it set on MAX AC as that recirculates the air in the truck vs cooling hot outside air and check for bugs and crap building up on the condenser (grille). A windshield sunscreen (cardboard foldey thingies for when you're parked), a carpeted dash cover (if you like those) and as B.O.B. suggested, tinted windows will all help too. The Southern sun heats all of the plastic up and it keeps radiating heat and fighting the AC.
I really want to upgrade my seats to ventilated/AC seats as I can have icicles on my hands and still sweat on my back on a hot day. Either find a complete set from a newer Harley truck and swap them, or take it to an upholstery shop to have them add the perforated leather and a ventilator kit (ebay) to my 03 seats. My wife's 14' Jeep Grand Cherokee has them and they make a difference! I don't drive my truck a lot anymore so it's not as big of a deal at the moment....
Hope these suggestions help.
Mike
Mike
Ok i should of said the windows are very illegal on the tint side. I have installed a electric fan a few months back its coming on with the ac so thats working. I was thinking of pulling the orifice and drier and a fresh vacumm and freon. Whats your opinion on that plan of attack. Do they offer a bigger condensor for these trucks. Maybe the condensor is dirty any help is welcomed
If you've never opened the system up (IE: replaced a hose, compressor, etc) then you shouldn't really need to change the orifice/drier. If the orifice is clogged, that's usually due to a failing compressor filling the system with debris, which is a bigger issue, of course. In my experience, you'll get the belt squealing or your pressure readings will be really high if you have a clogged system due to the compressor coming apart inside (and it will sound like an old diesel engine when it's on). Might not hurt to do a refresh, but sometimes once you open it up you end up with new leaks/issues. You shouldn't need to upgrade the condenser as the factory one works well for people in hot climates like Florida and Arizona (humidity and dry heat!). If you removed the mechanical fan and are just running the e-fan, I'd guess that maybe your e-fan isn't moving enough air at idle whether due to CFM capacity or a poor fitting shroud. If you can get the truck out on the highway for a few minutes and notice the AC really cooling better, low speed airflow may be the issue. It's normal for them to work a little better at highway speeds since you're moving lots of fresh air and spinning the compressor a little faster (and steady), but if it's night and day then you may have an issue.Originally Posted by BRIANV
Also, do you have a Aeroforce gauge or plug in tuner you can check coolant temps to see if the motor is running a little warm? I wouldn't trust the factory gauge, they are just mechanical dummy lights and not very accurate. If your coolant is perfect temp at idle then the e-fan is probably ok (although a few degrees can make a difference!). If the coolant temp is running a little high, you might need to check the e-fan. What kind of e-fan do you have and does it fit the factory shroud tightly? If it's just a fan with a round cage that doesn't have a full shroud, it's only cooling the part of the radiator and AC condenser it's covering-sort of like running a smaller radiator (at idle, anyway).
Before opening up the system, I'd check all of the fittings for leaks (if you don't have a sniffer, look for oil stains around fittings), make sure you don't have an overall airflow issue, make sure you actually have a full freon charge and check for obvious obstructions (dirt, bugs, cats, etc. in condenser) that might be hurting performance. If there are no obvious leaks, noises that indicate a failing comp. or other mechanical issues, you probably won't benefit too much from replacing the orifice/drier.
Summary of suggestions in priority order:
1. Check the charge again and leak test system. Are you sure the 1 can-o-fix gave you a full charge?
2. Check the e-fan/airflow. See if truck is running even a little warm w/ tuner/Aeroforce (or maybe Autozone can check), or at least take on highway to see if a steady speed helps a lot. Engine temp isn't really related to AC, but if the airflow is weak it's easier to check engine temp...
3. Check blend door. Cheap & dirty way to test is to switch to heat, defrost then back to AC (also reg & max AC) and see if it changes between all the vents accordingly. You can also follow an old bus or truck and see if you smell a lot of fumes when AC is on Max. If you do, the blend door may be leaking hot outside air into the AC vents. * I hope this isn't it, this is a PITA to fix! As a guide, it is normal to smell some light fumes if you are following a toxic waste vehicle (it's not 100% sealed), but it shouldn't overload the senses if you're on recycle (Max AC).
4. Make sure the compressor is cycling normally. If it turns on/off every 10 seconds, it could be low on freon or one of the sensors (pressure switches usually) could be going out. If it is not turning on very frequently, this could indicate a temperature or pressure switch issue, or it could indicate a weak compressor clutch. They are magnetic and the magnets only grip within a tight tolerance. If the clutch is worn, the tolerance might be too sloppy for the magnet to grab each time. There are lots of Youtube videos on how to hack some extra life out of a worn AC clutch by removing shims to make up for worn friction surfaces.
37. Doesn't sound like this is it, but our EATC units do tend to develop issues or vacuum leaks that switch the vents from dash to defroster. Generally you'd know right away if this happens as you'll hear it switch when you hit the gas and then switch back (sometimes) when you stop (vacuum issue). My AC works well, but when mine had that switching problem and blew the AC out the defrost vents, it got warm in the truck really fast. Again, I doubt this is it, but it probably will be at "it" at some point so I figured I'd toss it out there to save you some time laterGenerally, this is an all or nothing failure so if it's not switching completely to defrost on acceleration, it's probably working fine.
Mike
Dont have a tuner. And i have the e-fan kit from RPM outlet you know the one you use the factory shroud with the big fan bolted in, Honestly never like it you know your probably right it might be running a bit hot. Ill have my mechanic buddy to read the temp sensor with his high dollar scanner. Im gonna try to clean the condensor what do people use muiratic acid ??
Definitely don't use acid! A garden hose with a spray nozzle should do the trick. Maybe hose it down and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the bugs before hitting it with pressure. Good luck with the cooling tests, hope you're able to find a solution.
Mike
My buddy with a good scanner pulled a B1261 sunload sensor code. ford no longer makes it now what !??? lol
Well my local junk yard is terrible, Found a 2002 navigator with ATC so we will see how that works, cleared the B1261 code gonna drive it and see if it comes back up
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