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Thread: Looking to mod my truck safely

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    Looking to mod my truck safely

    Hey Guys,

    I am looking to mod my truck safely. I have had my truck since practically new (8000 miles) and it is pretty much stock. So far I have:

    Diablo Sport - Intune
    Air Filter

    I am thinking about going to a pulley to give me some more power but not sure what is safe level 6# 8 #? Also, any other suggestions would help. I think the best way to go on this is a quick change pulley set up.
    I am also open to some nice second hand parts ( at a good price)

    Thanks again

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    I like to watch
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    Front my lightning experience you will want a good tune. Currently it sounds like your running a canned tune.

    If you only do a lower pulley. People have survived with 8lb pulleys for some time(factor in the HD pulley is -2lb irrc).

    Single blade throttle body and exhuast.

    Cooling mods and guages would be high up there on my list

    Others will chime in with more.

  3. #3
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    Cool thanks for the reply.
    I will be waiting for others, thanks again

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    Pulley, Plugs and Tune (PP&T) and a valve body (VB) is a good place to start.

    If you want a nice wake up and stay "safe", I'd suggest the 6lb lower, NGK-TR6 plugs & a good street safe dyno tune.
    I'm also a big fan of the L&S oil separator and cleaning the intercooler. Change the plugs when you're cleaning the IC.
    Then just for S&G's, a Punisher (or A1 trans) Valve Body and to keep it "smooth around town" I'd do the street version.

    Even with this you still need to be aware of the two gear kick down and making sure OD is off when using the happy pedal.

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    From what I been reading this is a great platform to start from.

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    Is this a good filter to go with ?
    http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/in..._image&pID=214

    Or shoul I go with K&n similar?

    Pretty big price difference between the 2

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    If you're increasing the boost, you have to run a MAF sensor with a greater range than the stock one. If you don't, you'll end up in the vented block club.

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    Quote Originally Posted by priobe View Post
    Is this a good filter to go with ?
    http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/in..._image&pID=214

    Or shoul I go with K&n similar?

    Pretty big price difference between the 2
    Most folks on here go with the 1999 - 2004 JLP Forced Air Induction Kit
    is a true *Forced Air* Kit which draws Cold outside air...
    Outside Cold air makes more power than HOT! Engine heat!

    Why would you want an open air filter that draws hot engine air?



    Yeah, I know it's a little more dough...Do it once. Do it right.
    The nice thing about NHTOC folks...they'll help you spend $$.
    That said...sometimes I call it the High cost of saving money.
    It's cheaper to do it once & do it right than doing it over $$$.

    If it were me, my first "mod" would be the L&S oil separator.

  9. The Following User Liked Merlin For This Useful Post:

    Sport90 (08-21-2015)

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    Yes thats the creme de la creme of intakes. But like mentioned, do it once, do it right. I ended up going with it after wasting money on two others first.

    And as Kaoss mentioned, you will need a MAF extender as well. A MAFia if you decide to keep your Diablo tuner; or a SCT B2400/2600 if you go with an SCT tuner. Depending on who tunes your truck, you may need to switch up. Check into tuning first and see what they support.

  11. #10
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    OP, these guys have got you pretty well taken care of. "Safe" is a relative term and with the weak factory internals anything over factory power levels increses the risk of catastrophic engine failure, that's the unfortunate dilema we face. I'm a little more conservative than some guys so I recommend going with a 6# (9.0") lower pulley and retaining the factory (3.16") SC pulley. This will wake the truck up nicely. Porting the SC will net a few extra HP but more importantly, port the SC will make for a broader, more useable power curve. At the end of the day the power curve (how the power is made) is more important than "peak" power.

    Of course you will need all supporting mods to include a cooler spark plug and tune. A MAF or MAF extender is a good investment if for no reason other than to avoid having to pay to retune if you decide to add one later.

    Preventative maintenance is critical... replace the fuel filter every other oil change, clean the IC, and install an oil separator.

    Gauges are also highly recommended, a wideband AFR gauge and fuel pressure gauge are the most critical.


    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
    Most folks on here go with the 1999 - 2004 JLP Forced Air Induction Kit... is a true *Forced Air* Kit which draws Cold outside air...
    Outside Cold air makes more power than HOT! Engine heat!

    Why would you want an open air filter that draws hot engine air?
    Regardless of the air temperature an engine needs air to breath and that is the benefit of an open air filter compared to the factory air box... reduced restriction and more readily available air supply.

    The CAI debate has been going on for years. The advantages of cooler air charge is irrefutable but in the last decade I have yet to find anyone in the L/HD community that has been able to provide empirical before-and-after data that use of the scoop and tubing provided with any of the various "forced air" CAI provide any actual performance gains or drop in IAT 1 temperatures.

    Additonal theories worth consideration that have debated regarding "forced air" CAI over the years:
    1) in wet conditions there is the possibility for water to hydro-lock the engine - highly unlikely, yes. But this point has been debated
    2) that the pavement (particularly asphault) retains heat, in many instances air temps at ground level where the CAI scoop is getting its air supply may be significantly higher than air temps inches/feet above

    My personal experience and observations using a "forced air" CAI is that the one thing it did really well was cover my air filter and engine bay with road debris, grit and grime. I fully endorse aftermarket air box solutions (CAI, open-air filters) because they improve air supply and reduce restriction but IMHO the miunte gains of "forced air" aren't justified.
    Last edited by throttle jockey; 08-21-2015 at 12:35 PM.

  12. #11
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    Would you suggest the 1999 - 2004 JLP Air Induction Kit rather than the 1999 - 2004 JLP Forced Air Induction Kit?


  13. #12
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    Both kits reduce restriction and improve air supply to the engine compared to the OEM airbox which are the most benefits so either kit is a great option. It boils down to preference and ideology. IMO a person is starting to split atoms if they think the "forced air" is a true performance adder. I'm not saying it isn't a contributing factor, especially for the guys looking for every fraction of a second to set records and achieve new PBs, but for the masses who DD and street drive our trucks I don't believe its as significant as the sales pitch angles for.

    I suspect most of us would benefit more performance-wise if we learned to push ourselves away from the dinner table and lost a few pounds from mid-section... the benefit here is a two-fold, "weight reduction" to improve the HP:weight ratio and more money in the mod fund to buy more go-fast parts .

    Its a complex debate with many variables... moving v idle/static IAT1 temperatures, consideration of heatsoak, etc.

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