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Thread: Starting the Melling Timing Components w/ intercooler clean

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    Starting the Melling Timing Components w/ intercooler clean

    Hello all,
    Itís been a while since being on here and it is now time to start the timing chain rattle fix.
    MODs I have done are the Stiegemire porting service and rebuild with Venom cooling and 2.70 upper S/C pulley (donít remember the actual size), the Punisher Valve Body, L&S oil separator and
    intercooler clean, clunk washer mod, flow master mufflers with custom piping straight out the back with chrome tips.

    So, to start I removed all the components around the radiator, front cover, hoses, fan etc. to include the intercooler reservoir and degas bottle with cleaning both with rinse and compressed air to remove the dirty look and they came clean like new type. On the driver side I removed everything that was in the way and leaving the injector rails before removing the valve covers, left them installed until I get closer to doing the actual work, wasnít too bad I worked keeping everything majorly together in big pieces to be able to re-install later.

    The harmonic and front lower pulley for the super charger I decided to wait until the tools arrive, crank alignment tool, two cam lock hold down tools for both banks and a flywheel lock for locking the engine from turning. Iím doing this myself so I donít have anyone to help hold the engine from turning and was the best option for me while I remove both lower pulleys. Since I donít trust anyone to help and Iím on my own beside the dudes on this site I had to invest in some tooling to help me.
    I didnít want to try and jimmy or home rig a pry bar to try and hold the engine while I remove the two front lower pulleys. I took on the investment since it wonít be the last time I go in this deep into the engine and Iíll probably be working on another down the road.

    Engine front cover, due to waiting for the tools I ordered off Freedom Racing arrive, also since Iím working outside, I decided to do the intercooler first; before breaking the seal on the front cover I thought to ask a few questions first. I have the factory service manual and seen the videos from Ford Tech Makuloco and didnít want to split the work on the engine front cover and timing components over the span of two days. I prefer to peel off the cover and install the parts and replace the cover in one shot so as not leave it open to the elements.
    So, the questions I have are:

    - Replacing the gasket for the front cover, do we let the Permatex sealer cure or dry before installing the cover with gasket in place?
    I think I read somewhere in the manual I have like 4 minutes to install the cover; Iíll have to go back in and look where I read that.

    - Re-installing the front cover, the front engine crankshaft seal, is it best to install the seal while on the engine or when the cover is off?
    At first, I was thinking to not replace the seal since its not leaking and just replace the cover with old seal. Then I went and bought a new seal and decided to ask you guys.

    - Alternator, the alternator that I have works and there are no issues but Iím thinking when it possibly gets wet from washing engine bay it makes the engine sputter driving off, when it drys it goes back to normal driving. At first, I like the idea of a chrome model but I donít want to replace an alternator should the new one fail for some dumb reason. Potentially get an alternator from the dealer and not AutoZone. Your thoughts?

    - Engine paint, thinking of the ford blue but seen another light ford blue on one of the forums. I figured to ask here first about painting the intake and leave the S/C originally grey. Iím also thinking of painting the front cover the same color as the valve covers. Your thoughts?


    - Gates Pulley serpentine belts, I have not changed the crankshaft inner accessory belt since I got the truck and now that I will have access to both belts Iím looking to get Gates of course but Iím leaning towards the green fleet color model for both pulley systems and would like to know what your thoughts are.

    - Melling oil pump, not sure which to get since I donít want to overdo it on the pressure being 20% more over stock the M360 HV seems to be too be, last thing I need is that 20% more to be inside my turkey pan, your thoughts?



    For the intercooler clean (still havenít removed anything) Iím thinking of taking the intercooler to the local radiator shop to have them clean oil varnish build up from the cooling fins cost for that would be 85.00. I understand that break clean/carb cleaner will do the trick but the use of 10 spray cans sounds a bit retardish when I have a compressor to blow off any parts after dipping and I kind of wanted to post my thoughts about getting a 5 gallon can of Berryman Chem-Dip Cleaner and want to see what others are also doing.

    Iím posting pictures of where project currently sits while I wait for parts tools and weather, Iím definitely not in a hurry and would like to do the job right as humanly possible, I think I could hit 500k miles if quality timing components are used. Iím also looking to get a harmonic balancer puller but just not sold on the ones they have for sale at the box stores..

    It will be much appreciated if all who have something for the good of the group to chime in, all is welcomed..

  2. #2
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    Does anyone have or like the AN fittings for our trucks or are they hotrod specific ?
    Last edited by califabricator; 03-16-2020 at 11:22 AM. Reason: wrong link trying to post pics

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    front engine cover

    here is my front engine cover installed, note: the belt at the lower pulley, wont be removing that until the weather clears and the flywheel lock arrives.
    Last edited by califabricator; 03-08-2020 at 03:46 PM. Reason: flipping image

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    I'm also looking to modify the L&S oil separator, they say the MOTO Blue oil separator in inferior to the L&S but no one says why..
    Last edited by califabricator; 03-16-2020 at 11:24 AM.

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    trying this pic , might need to be rotated
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    here is the driver side valve cover just about ready to remove..


    engine driver side snip.jpg

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    I'm also in the market for a new L&S Separator, I've attempted to clean the inside of this one and it has lasted through the years but it will eventually rust the filter on the inside, cleaning it eventually took the paint right off, that is why I was asking about the moto-blue from back in the day, I went in and looked and it does appear to be cleaner install. and the word here it stinks

    passenger side valve cover snip.jpg

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    in short I'm going to acquire a good amount of PCV tubing due to the ones I have turned to hot gum ..tubing and elbows.
    I also read on one of the sites about the cobra PCV valves

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    I will be following this post since I have to replace my guides as well. Question I have since will be doing it myself is how long does this job take to do for the guides and the chain.

  11. #11
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    was talking with dudes at ford and was saying they did a ford flex timing kit on a 2012 v6 3.5L model by the book man hours is 15 total hours if that gives you and indication, but they replace new and do not waste time cleaning and gawking..

  12. #12
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    Priobe, if you have not acquired a factory service manual for your vehicle its a good idea to have vol 1 and vol 2 on hand, it explains how to do it in detail but I still have questions sometimes..

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    Tools finally arrive, they are pretty good quality from Freedom Racing, shipping was greatly anticipated (took forever) but when they arrived I was not disappointed.

    B309368E-3009-415F-AD8B-C2FDD24E44DD.jpeg


    Now to drop the starter, install the flywheel locking tool, remove the two pulleys' and order the Gates green heavy duty belts ..
    Last edited by califabricator; 03-16-2020 at 05:29 AM. Reason: spelling

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    So I began this morning with dropping the starter to the point it’s out of the way. You will need to lift the vehicle and remove the passenger side front tire.
    Dropping the starter completely is not needed and too troublesome due to the transmission lines being in the way. One can access the starter bolts by removing the passenger side front tire and since I have had the inner fender liner removed previously it also made it easier to access two of the starter bolts through the inner fender well.
    There are three bolts you need to remove and re-use two of the bolts with the flywheel lock tool. Note: it will be easily to mistake the bell housing bolt while trying to remove starter bolt as you're looking at it upside down.
    Oh and the Flywheel Locking Tool from Freedom Racing works pretty darn good if you are alone and have to lock down the engine from rotating to remove both pulleys from the crank shaft. I highly recommend it since any other way and you'll be frustrating yourself.
    It's a few extra steps but its a for sure way to move forward and not damage anything.

    Flywheel lock tool inserted the view is from wheel well and you will need extensions for your ratchets with a swivel to reach two of the bolts. Note the one bolt left still attached, didn't need to remove it since it will be a expeditious to re-install starter once balancer has been removed.
    tool inserted from the wheel well.jpg


    Flywheel lock tool inserted view from underneath.
    tool inserted from underneath.jpg

    Freedom Racing flywheel locking tool, there are two types. One that's called out in the factory service manual and the alternative one, FR sells both and are of good quality but the actual one is a bit pricey.
    Flywheel lock from Freedom Racing .jpg
    Last edited by califabricator; 03-15-2020 at 10:22 PM. Reason: grammar

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    So I went in and removed the balancer and S/C lower, the actual tool I was looking for appeared I was going to have to order online, no one had it in stock. I went and settled for one from ORiley's, it was a good purchase since the puller I got was used and from their loaner program. I also got the installer since I will be replacing the front cover crank shaft seal. Periodically I go in and spray the front cover with some WD40 to loosen any stubborn bolts but cant tell you if that works since I have not encountered any.
    water pump pulley removed.jpg

    I also removed the water pump pulley to access the bolts from behind the water pump pulley and to be able to remove the cover with no issues.
    front cover pully's removed.jpg


    Here is the tool I purchased, it worked well but would rather have had one from OTC
    harmonic balencer puller.jpg

    Now that the pulleys' are removed I can now move forward in ordering the Gates green HD Fleet type serpentine belts. We'll see how that turns out.
    I'm also ready to start the intercooler clean. I'm seriously considering a couple gallons of Chem-Dip for the cleaning process. I'm also considering painting the Harmonic balancer black high temp and started looking at some AN fittings and hose kits

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