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Thread: Stock HU to amp to sub

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    Master Procastinator
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    Stock HU to amp to sub

    What is the best way to hook up the stock HU to an amp to a JL sub?

    I know I won't be getting the best sound, but this is what I have now, and I would like to get something out of it.
    ;sfus Harley Davidson and Ford. . .You can't get more American than that ;sfus

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    BLWN HOG
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    If you have an amp that accepts line-level, then you can splice to your "rear" speaker wires and use the connector for the amp.

    Let us know what type of amp you have, so we can better help you.
    2003 FFW-Palmdale, CA - Tough Truck Winner

    2002 HD Black
    1996 Probe GT

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    Master Procastinator
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    I guess I have to take an in depth look at my amp. I think it will accept the rear speaker wires.

    The amp is a loaner from a friend until I get something that really bumps.

    Where would be the best place to tap the wires to the rear speakers?

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    If you are mounting the amp under the front passenger seat here's what I did.

    T-tap or vampire tap on the OEM harness.
    You need to pull out the OEM HU, disconnect the harness.

    I don't have the exact colors with me right now. I'll post them when I get home and look at my notes.

    You will need 4 taps, 16 gauge wire should be fine

    LEFT
    Positive / Negative

    RIGHT
    Positive / Negative

    Run these wires under your dash, by the passenger kick panel, under the door sill. Fish them under the carpet under the front passenger seat. Attach the 4 pin, speaker level adaper to the wires. Take note of the polarities, and plug in to the amp.


    This might help

    Again, Ford has the most number of harnesses and they freakin' change everytime I take a shower.
    Last edited by chesterc; 03-11-2003 at 06:11 PM.

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    Master Procastinator
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    The amp I plan on using is a Pioneer GM - X552, Bridgeable 2 - ch Power Amp. I have no idea how this rates on the 'thump O meter'. If it is driving my 12" 3w JL subwoofer will it put out enough power?

    When I go to wire it up to the system, all I need to do is tap the signal from the other speakers and connect it to the speaker input on the amp right?

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    Not quite....

    It doesn't have line-level input only RCAs. Bridged it will pump 150 watts, half of your 12 W3 is rated for RMS.

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    Here is the info for the amp

    Does this mean I am only going to be running the sub at half power?

    I guess beggars can't be choosers, I didn't have to pay for it.

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    Sub will GET 150 watts continuously, and will see 300 watt peaks.

    Your sub is rated at 300 watts continuous and peak somewhere around 500 to 600 watts.

    Peak wattage only last milliseconds. The sub will be powered, but not powered to its full potential.

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    Okay Chester, :k of HD stereo systems - What do you reccomend for a decient amp?

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    I'm still learning ;)

    When you're ready to purchase, you can start with JL 250/1 mono amp.

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    an all in one amp.. JL or Xtant... they have the speaker level input or RCA input. Awesome sound quality, great power, nice dealer installed warranties.

    Rob & Laura Weeks, St. Louis MO

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    What sort of $$$$ are we talking about for these amps?

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    MTX amps are awesome amps and much cheaper. Check Ebay for the 6500D and 8500D. I'm using the 6500D. Compare #s before you buy. ;)

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    As a former MTX dealer & a long time competitor with MTX, MTX is NOT making near the product they used to. Get too big.. gotta make more people happy.. loose quality.

    JL or Xtant, in my professional opinon (17+ years in car audio, IASCA cert. judge, MECP cert installer) are your best choices with an OEM HU.

    The JL & Xtant have a special circuit that can take up to 50 watts peak from a stock head unit & input it directly into the rca input. No SPeaker level converter needed. The amps internal circuit "sees" the voltage & wattage & acts accordingly.

    Other wise... shop carefully & buy a Sound Gate line converter.

    Rob & Laura Weeks, St. Louis MO.

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